Turbo and Superchargers

SHOs dont have 3.8 motors.

Gen 1-2 SHOs had either a 3.0 or a 3.2

Gen 3 SHOs had a 3.4

Check out www.shoforum.com

They will be able to answer ALL your questions

Depends how much more..

For starts <20hp,

intake

exhaust

20-75hp

above plus...

cam

heads

75+hp

stroker kit and above items or,

turbo

supercharger

The normal direction of airflow is air filter to turbo, to intercooler, to engine.

The normal direction of airflow is air filter to turbo, to intercooler, to engine.

Depends on the type of supercharger and your mechanical skills...

A centrifugal superchargers (procharger, Paxton, vortech) is a lot of easy (for a backyard mechanic)work, removing/relocating, trimming minor parts. They are easier than screw or positive displacement superchargers (Whipple, kenne bell, magnuson) which usually requires replacing the intake manifold. You can check the links below and read the installation instructions and see if you would be up to it.

The pulleys have marks that line up with marks on the case, See link below for complete step by step how to with pictures.

check for low alternator charge voltage when heater fan is on if alternator has anything lower then 13.5 volts have alternator load tested.. idead charge voltage is 13.8 to 14.5 volts is alt checks good scan abs codes and see whats up auto computers are very sensitive to voltage loos or overcharging. email me with more if you need help g ps check battery connections if any corrosion puul off batt cables negitive first pull center screw out and check both sides of bolt cables for corrosion if found soak cable ends in baking soda/water mixture to get rid of acid then wire brush cables also check the negative battery cable has a second wire that grounds your chassis. if that wire is hot when engine runs with heater on it means you have a bad body ground turn engine off remve black wire to chassis or radiator support and sand the terminal and sand the metal it attaches to. engine grounds are becoming more of a problem due to the use of more plastic being used means less ground points and aluminum tend to oxidize ground connections faster then cast iron does

Some turbo cars will be fitted with a turbo timer, which keeps the engine running for a specified time after the ignition is turned off. This allows the turbo to cool down before the engine shuts off, which prevents potential damage to the turbo.

A turbo kit is a small turbine that runs off of the exhaust from the internal cumbustion engine. and uses the power generated to compress more air into the engine their by increasing the power the engine produces.

Yes. It involves replacing the fuel lines, fuel pump, and injectors. Be forwarned - you will lose performance with biodiesel.

Depends on what year/make/model of diesel.

For example the 6.7L Cummins used in the current Dodge truck can run 5% bio stock. It can run 20% bio with the addition of another water stripping fuel filter inline( a kit available from the dealer)

Here in central Illinois most ( if not all ) fuel stations sell a bio diesel blend that ranges between 5-15% due to tax breaks.

It is easier/cheaper, unless You have access to a welding/machine shop.

The turbo uses exhaust gas the spin up the turbine in order to compress more air into the combustion chamber for more power while the supercharger uses serpentine belt driven from the crankshaft to spin up the turbine.

Replace it.

timing is off. this is correct, but to find out WHY it is all of a sudden backfiring you gotta start from the beginning.... I am posting this because in my painstaking search for a solution to my car troubles, all i found were half answered questions or people not posting after a repair was made so we can all know what worked and what didn't.. HERE IS WHAT I FOUND..... I've had a problem with my 1992 Lumina 3.1 ever since around Thanksgiving when the temp outside dropped below 50 degrees. before that, the car would start with absolutely no problems. since then, when i crank the motor, the engine feels like it's going to catch but doesn't- just sputters out and backfires through the intake.. after reading so many threads and "solutions" on the 'net...i checked a few things... found that my fuel pressure regulator was leaking fuel through the vacuum port.. also read that a leaky regulator would cause a no start like mine especially in cold weather because without the proper amount of fuel and spark, you wont get the car running. OK!! SO!! after spending 650 dollars to replace the fuel pressure regulator (on the older model Luminas its located under the intake plenum, so the whole thing needs to be removed), AND a new starter since I overcranked mine 1 too many times, the car started right up at the shop.. NEXT DAY THOUGH, cold as hell morning, no start and STILL backfiring through intake.. the mechanic at the shop insisted he take apart my intake again to check voltage on all of my injectors, but thankfully i hadn't enough cash after the 650 wiped me out... REMEMBER...my car ONLY BACKFIRED upon ignition... after i got the motor running, my car ran like a dream.. so in reading hundreds of other posts i determined that it was either gonna be my ignition control module or crank sensor, or a combo of both.. i got crafty this morning and went out to the driveway with an extension cord and my sister's hair dryer... i put the hair dryer to the ICM and the coils that mount to it for 5-10 mins.. low and behold, my car started right up without hesitation or backfire. i know this post has been long, but like i said, I'm only doing it so that maybe the next poor guy having similar problems will come across it and get closure and hopefully a solution. my icm needs replacing soon as i get paid

The 1962 F-85 Oldsmobile Jetfire, had a turbocharged aluminum 215ci V8

Porsche started in 1975 and

SAAB in 1978

I think you can get one in mississippi.I think....

It cools the air so more will fit in the engine. More air means more fuel can be burnt to make more power.

You can not get a turbo kit but there is a nuespeed Supercharger kit for the 2.0 it gives you 50% more horsepower and 55% more torque.

The difference is that a sluice gate is made out of cast iron while a slide gate isn't.

Basically a turbocharger has has two turbines inside it. The rear one is plumbed into the exhaust system and is spun by the exhaust gases rushing past it. This then spins the front turbine which sucks in air, compresses it and forces it into your engine. The turbo will only start to workwhen enough pressure builds up in the exhaust, which is usually in the mid to high RPM range. Once it does it forces more air into the engine making the engine more powerful. Turbos can also be used with an intercooler, which makes the air colder. Cold air is denser and so makes more power.

How do you turn off the electronic engine management systems light indicator

on the dash

Trade for a 1995 thunderbird supercoupe. Major engine mods for the 4.6

It depends on what kind of turbo you are talking about.

I have a 1996 Volvo 850 turbo. The turbo isn't weak by any measure (it adds 65 hp) but it is stock. On a car with a stock turbo, the turbo will probably outlast many of the other engine components.

In a car where a large aftermarket turbo was after and the car is driven hard, this may not be the case.

But underneath it all, turbos are mechanically very simple. They are just 2 chambers, a ball bearing, and a turbine/compressor (something that spins)

The only thing that will break a turbo is the fact that it deals with extreme heat. If the cooling system in the car is damaged (in which case you shouldn't be driving the car anyway) there is a good chance you can ruin the turbo, especially in aggressive driving. Upgrading a car to a large turbo without making other necessary modifications such as adding intercoolers can increase the risk of turbo damage. Consult experts before putting aftermarket performance parts on your car that are not in a kit.

If you are wondering about a turbo that was installed by the manufacturer (especially a European manufacturer) you shouldn't worry. Even driving the car hard, chances are something else is going to break far before the turbo. Just make sure you fix coolant system leaks when they happen.

A loud whining noise, excessive oil consumption, loss of power, and a vehicle that smokes can be symptoms of a failing turbo. Also, a failed turbo sometimes leaks oil that can be seen on the body of the turbo, and a failing turbo many times deposits oil on the piping that leads to the throttle body.

If the turbo is too small, the turbo can go into surge, it is the part of the compressor map where the air flow is unstable. It is to the left on the compressor map, will cause damage if it taken care of.