VW Beetle Type 1

The 2013 Volkswagen Beetle is 5 ft. 11.2 in. (71.2 in.)12V front power outlet(s) wide.

It was made between January and July of 1978, it is a 1978 Beetle.

10.6 gallons

No, the super beetle had rack and pinion steering and macpherson stut suspension. The standard had torsion tubes where the steering box mounted. sorry totally different.

2.8 quarts. We usually just add a full 3 quarts. Be sure to clean the filter/screen, and replace all the little gaskets - one per nut (6 total) plus the two big paper gaskets that fit one above and one below the filter/screen. The 6mm bolts are delicate, do not over tighten, or they WILL strip easily.

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The engine holds 2500 ml of oil, or a little over 2.6 quarts. Don't put any more than that in there because the engine has very high startup oil pressure. If you put even a little too much oil in a Bug you will pop the main seal right out of the engine, which causes it to leak. This is why everyone thinks Volkswagens all leak. They don't, unless you make them leak and this is how.

I have removed many with this procedure get a good quality socket slightly smaller than the locking nut hammer it on to the locking nut but no to split it that's why you need a good quality socket, Chrome Vandium spec, then attach the wrench to undo the locking nut.CozyMerc.

2004 vw beetles have an aluminum engine therefore require the blue colored coolant.

If this is a US Beetle, it doesn't have swingarms. In 1969, Volkswagen changed to independent rear suspension.

How to get a CV halfshaft out of a Beetle: crawl under and use a CV socket to take the six bolts on each end of the halfshaft out of the car. Then just lower the halfshaft onto your chest and crawl out from under the car.

The switch is located on the nosecone of the transaxle, look on the front (the side furthest from the engine) of the transaxle near where the shifter linkage is. You will see electrical wires going to the backup light switch.

it looks to me gear box has teeth missing ] 1. new gear box . but a lot money. 2. new gear oil in two times year

It's screwed into the side of the engine case, very close to the crank pulley, and there's a wire sticking out of it--or at least a place to connect a wire.

Lower the right lever near the right seat on the transmission hump near the shifter to turn the heat off. Raise it to get heat. Left side is for defrost or foot air. I believe the '69 had a manual lever in the foot heat vent also if you wanted to turn the foot air completely off and still have the air for the defroster.

Theres a Black fuse box under the hood , on drivers side,that has fuses as well as the one inside under the dash,and once when working on mine, I pulled a fuse out of this box to check for something else and the air conditioner stopped working.

summer: 10W30 winter: 5W30

The only things unleaded gas could screw up in that engine are the valve seats. Volkswagen started putting Stellite (a very, very hard metal) seats in their engines in the 1960s, so you're fine.

The first beetle was made in 1931, if I remember correctly, and it is still being manufactured today.

Well it provides the right back pressure for the car to run well. It muffles the sound of the exhaust as well as creates an outlet for the exhaust gasses to escape. Cars don't run well on exhaust fumes so you need to get them out of the head and away from the intake as efficiently as possible. It also (on later models, Dual Ports) helps to heat the intake. In winter time your intake will freeze right below the carb this is because of the cold temps outside as well as very cold fuel hitting very cold metal. There are two small pipes that come off the intake(on Dual Port motors) that go down and meet with the exhaust, these are called the heat risers. These are what heat the intake.

165R15. The modern equivalent is P165/80-R15.

A 1970 VW Beetle will have what is referred to as the IRS transaxle not the earlier swing axle used up until 1968. Any good gear lube made for use in manual transmissions will work, an 85W/140 for example. I have used a Slick 50 manual transmission additive in mine that helps smooth the shifting noticeably.

If you remove them,you will be sitting on your bump stops. You should be able to adjust them and get the drop you want.

there are two flat plates leading to the axles, one on either side. first the car needs to be raised and put on axles stands, and the wheels removed. then these plates need to be unbolted from the axle, the cover plates unbolted from the torsion bar housings (the other end), flat plates (spring plates) pulled off their torsion bars and rotated slightly so that the wheel sits higher up. the procedure is essentially the same whether you have a beetle or a super beetle. be careful though, if you set the angle badly, you could easily end up with a skewiff bug! added to which, the plates are under a vast amount of pressure, so when you take them off, be very careful, or they'll snap down and smash your fingers beyond recognition. the best method is to use a jack underneath them and lever them off with a crowbar, whilst keeping arms/legs well away. hope this helps.

kind of vague as my 68 has a 1914cc engine in it now, about 148 hp, dual kadron carbs and I get about 50 mpg. what size is your engine and what carburation do you have?

this is a replacement block made between 66-79 and is a 1600, built since 73 in mexico,brazil, germany.

Headlights not working

On the top of the bottle where the cap screws on there should be a small hose with a female type threaded connector, screw it onto the valve stem on your spare tire. wa-la you have window washer fluid.