VW New Beetle

Take the intake tube off the intake plenum/mass air flow sensor box and put it out of the way. Then remove the two bolts that hold the plate on top of the valve cover off which will expose the coil packs. Unplug the coil packs very carefully and then gently pull straight up on each coil and the plugs will be exposed. ou will need a 10" extension to reach all the way down in the tube to get the plugs out. BE VERY CAREFUL HERE AND ONLY DO THIS WHEN THE ENGINE IS COLD, DO NOT DO IT WHEN THE ENGINE IS EVEN SLIGHTLY WARM, COLD, COLD, COLD! You SHOULD replace the spark plug boots when you replace the spark plugs. The boots are the rubber parts that are attached to the coil packs that cover the the top of the spark plugs. This should be done as the extreme conditions these rubber part endure cause them to weaken and when they are pulled out they sometimes get a small pinhole in them and then the spark is sent out the pinhole to the spark plug tube and you will have a rough idle, low performance and likely a check engine light. When reinstalling the coil packs press them down firmly and sort of "wiggle" them down till they are seated firmly on the plug. Use an ANTI-SEIZE on the spark plugs so that they will not get stuck in the heads which will cause expensive damage to the headss the next time you want to replace the plugs. Carefully clean the top of the valve covers where the plates that go over the coil packs come into contact with the valve covers and make sure that the gaskets on the plates are clean and still pliable....The rear of each plate has a half round opening to allow the wire harness for the coil packs to come through. Pay close attention to this area upon reinstallation so that they seal properly around the wire harnesses.

on drivers side of trans 1 wire

The front turn signals on my 2002 Beetle Turbo S can be popped out by carefully inserting a flat screw driver on inside the lower edge and pressing down on the metal spring clip that holds the signal lamp assembly in. It will then pivit up and out. It's pretty simple, but be careful not to scratch your paint.

The check engine light (service engine soon) comes on and stays on when a problem is detected by the self diagnosis system of your vehicle. Generally, the problem is in the emissions or something that is affecting the effectiveness of the emissions, but other causes can trigger the light to come on, too. To determine the cause, the vehicle will need to be taken to a parts store or a shop that has an OBD2 scanner, or for 1995 and earlier models, an OBD1 scanner, While a scanner will not give you the magic answer, it will give you a code that narrows down the problem area.

the glow plug relay can be found in the super rapist tard section of your beetle

Unless the entire gauge cluster was replaced with one out of another car, I would have to say the gauge is faulty. Is the car named "Christine" by chance?

worn out kingpins, or as they are now called ball joints will cause this. so will a bent tie rod

Not being torqued in the right sequence when the engine was serviced.

165R15 86T

The 2006 VW Beetle fuse box can be found in the engine compartment. The fuse box will be on the back side of the battery box.

Price this part out at any GM dealer and ask them to print out a picture of the part which will show you the location of it on your engine. This is a free service. Mark

I would suspect that the alarm system is not arming. Typically this is caused by a missing hood switch bumper.

If you open the hood of the car - you can remove the bulb from the light unit. It is a bit tough because there is not much room. Find where the bulb enters the light unit and twist it about 1/4 turn and it will come out. Find the replacement bulb (I suggest taking the old one with you) to the auto parts store. I think they are about $7.00 each.

Yes, you must use G12 type antifreeze which is similar to Dex-cool but they are not the same. But that doesn't mean you have to buy it from the dealer at $25. There may be other sources. PEAK® Global LifeTime™ claims to be a replacement for G12 but considering the importance of using the proper coolant, I would use only a G12 coolant.

You can't, unless you're an engineer and proficient at welding. Well I guess if you really really wanted too you could. It would be a major under taking to say the least. They have two different front suspensions and they both mount differently. Not to mention the steering, etc. If you're looking at wanting a "beam" axle for a Baja, just get a standard beetle. If the Super body is good and the pan is bad you can just get a donor car and replace the pan. The Super is a couple feet longer so the '60 pan wouldn't fit either.

Not enough weight in the back.

Consult your user manual.

First, Open the trunk and locate the general area where the taillight is located and wired, IE Right or left. Then look on the inside wall of the trunk, there should be a small area that can be removed, like a small cover. Remove the cover, this will allow you to reach inside Once inside locate a small thumb wheel type knob, un loosen it, righty tighty, lefty loosey. Once this is loosen, remove the knob. Now return to the outside part of the tail light, find an area where the plastic rim of the light cover meets the metal of the car, place your fingernail or small screwdriver in between the cover and car, gently pry enough to get a grip on the light cover and pull away from the car. The whole taillight cover should now be removed. Now remove the bad bulb, pushing down on the bulb and turning a 1/4 turn left. Replace with new bulb, first pushing down then 1/4 turn right.

The Suzuki LTR450 is extremely quick, but with stock gearing will run 20 mph, due its low gearing for tracks.

That is BS i own one and i toped it out at 87 off the showroom floor dead stock.

I can't give you the technical jargon, but let me give this a shot. First off, you don't need a screwdriver, so don't look for any screws. Open the hood and look straight down at the headlight assembly. On each side of the assembly, at the top, you will see what looks like the short end of a rather large Allen wrench. Turn both of these "L" shaped rods toward you, and then pull them straight up and out. They literally hold the headlight assembly in place. Pay attention to how they come out - they're a bit more difficult to put back than they are to get out. Once the rods are out the assembly can be popped out, and the bulb is easily replaced. Be sure not to touch the new bulb with your fingers. The oil from your hands can ruin it. At least that's what the guy from Auto Zone told me.

The key to replacing the assembly is aligning it properly so that the rods can slide easily back in place.

1 Disconnect the battery. 2 Unplugg the three electrical wires.(one may have a bolt) 3 Loosen the three support bolt. 4 Lift the alternater slightly with a crowbar to release the tension on the belt. 5 Remove the belt. 6 Remove the three support bolt and the alternater should come right off. If the engine is in the car..... after step 2 insert the following 2a. Remove Carburator and Intake manifolds where connected to the heads. This also means you remove the heater pipe and the rubber fittings. Make sure nothing falls into the resulting intakes in the heads after removing the intake pipes. Now loosen the alternator from the alternator stand and remove the belt. Also. remove 4 nuts that hold the cooling fan assembly(still connected to the alternator) to the doghouse. OK everything is loose now. 2b. Loosen the screws at the base of the doghouse- one on each side Maybe a short screwdriver will do it, maybe a wrench. 2c. Get a piece of wood and get ready.. now lift the doghouse and shove the wood in to raise the doghouse a couple inches. 2d. Loosen the nuts at the base of the generator stand and remove stand. Now everything falls out. 3. The alternator comes out with the cooling fan attached in the rear; this needs to be removed and reused, as does the inner pully. You will need a 36mm socket for the fan end and a flat screwdriver jammed between the alternator housing and inner pully on the other end to successfully break it free. You may also need a gear puller if the fan and inner pully do not agree with coming off the alternator shaft once the nuts are removed. Also be aware that there is a Woodruff key on both ends which will likely fall off; they must be reused (it prevents the fan/pully from spinning on the shaft.) (Note: If you end up buying a large 36mm socket, it can also used to remove the rear wheel drums when doing brake/bearing replacement. You'll probably find it needs a large 3/4" drive, but a 3/4" to 1/2" adapter will do, assuming you have a 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar.) Its a frustrating job that will take you several hours, but very satisfying when you realize how much money you saved doing it yourself, and hey, You Did IT!

You should in the UK, as your car will fail the MOT test if your horn does not work.

The red battery symbol indicates that there is a problem with the charging system.

It could be the alternator (faulty), voltage regulator (old), bad battery (old). or a blown fuse.

If possible, after checking the fuses, you may have to recharge the battery overnight and then drive the vehicle to an automotive store (a close one) that can test the suspected equipment. I say this because it is near impossible to remove the alternator on a 2001 beetle (I had the same problem) and could not remove it myself to take in for testing, due to the tight space of its location and the other systems that were blocking access to the 2 bolts.

If the alternator tests good, look at replacing the voltage regulator. The alternator can still be putting out the correct amount of charge and be good, but if the regulator goes out it may not show on the test. The voltage regulator is a small voltage sensor with brushes in it...should be around $75