1982-1994 Chevy Cavaliers

Hold down the "arrow up" button (beside the "audio" button) and it should beep, use the same button for hrs and the "arrow down" button for mins

My first guess would be a defective Torque Converter lock-up Solenoid. Very common on these cars. Disconnect the solenoid, and if the problem goes away the solenoid needs replacing.

Locks of Love was started in 1997.

Look under the hood, the front of the engine, on the exhaust manifold. It should be the only thing with wire/s on the manifold. You will need a special socket to remove it. The tool is available to "Borrow" from the folks at AutoZone. If you need any further info, just gimme a shout.

Actually it depends on the engine. The 2.3/2.4 has the exhaust manifold on the back side of the engine - between the engine and firewall. You'll most likely have to get under the car to remove the O2 sensor. On the 2.2 the exhaust manifold is on the "front" of the engine between the engine and the front crossmember. You should be able to get to this O2 sensor without getting under the car (note I said *should*). Either way they're located on the exhaust manifold, before the catalytic converter.

There is no fan belt. Cavaliers, sunbirds, and sunfires use electric fans. But there is a serpentine belt...just go to your mechanic and they can put a new one on!

Seriously, changing the serpentine belt is a messy annoying chore but easily accomplished.

The belt is held in place by a few of the pulleys and the tensioner. Before removing the belt, check to see that the tensioner pulley (kinda in the middle on top... smooth and likely shiny) is running straight and the belt has not been rubbing against the timing cover. If the tensioner isn't straight (in-line with the belt and the rest fo the pulleys) or there are rub marks on the timing cover from the belt, you will need to replace the tensioner assembly too. Time to decide if the mechanic is a better idea or not!

The tensioner is 50 to 90 bucks depending on the source and your haste. The job should take an hour to an hour and a half for a decent shop (figure another 100 to 200 bucks) plus a new belt... So the job should run between 300 and 400 dollars U.S.

On the other hand, pretty much all the accessories have to be removed or loosened to remove the tensioner assembly (not repairable) and replace it. Plus, for an added bonus, it's kinda tight against the right fender. Messy by any standard.

If your tensioner is OK or at least "reasonable," you just take tension off the belt with a suitable wrench or socket handle, slip the belt off the tensioner and slooowly release the tensioner. Check for a belt route diagram on a sticker on the radiator support (or under the hood). If yours is missing or undecipherable, make some notes or take pictures of the belt routing! Then the belt can be manuvered off and a replacement put on "reassembly being the reverse of disassembly."

Here is a link with pictures, tools needed and everything to do the job. http://www.v6z24.com/howto/heatercore

It will be located on the bottom of the raditor or at some other low point on the cooling system.

To be more specific, on my 2003 Cavalier it is located near the very bottom driver's side of the radiator, and is on the front of the radiator, not behind it. The plug is just a small white plastic button about the size of a nickel as I recall. The plug is hidden by the front air dam, and you can just see the plug if you look at an angle to the right through the right side air dam vent. You have to reach up and in to get at the plug. Its not a straight shot from the outside. A small hexagon Allen wrench is needed to open the plug, but a large short screwdriver can be used to close the plug. Its plastic, so don't use a lot of force. Go slowly, take it easy.

The plug does not come off the radiator. You just turn it enough for it to pop out a little, and the radiator fluid flows out. The vacume in the radiator system is very strong, so I had to remove the radiator reservoir fill cap up above in order for the fulid to flow out.

When I drained the fluid, only about 3 quarts out of a total 8 quarts actually came out, so its not a total change by any means. I hate to use a garden hose to flush the system, since my tap water has high mineral content. I'll just drain 3 quarts every year, and feel that the fluid is pretty near to being new and clean. I use the pink fluid and distilled water, so it should be clean.

I the front of the vehicle, I believe on the drivers side by the headlights.

The flasher is located under the dash below and to the drivers side of the radio just above a plate. Be careful when playing around under there because there are ways to trigger the air bags if your not careful. Take your time and you'll find it. ..

1.disconect negative battety cable. 2.drain coolant 3.drain oil and remove filter 4.remove intake and exhaust manifolds 5.remove valve cover 6.remove timing chain 7.remove alternator 8.unbolt power steering pump and set it aside without disconecting hoses 9.label and detatch any remaing wiring or hoses that would get in the way 10.support engine with a jack and block of wood under oil pan. remove right motor mount 11.remove the head bolts in 1\4 turn increments until they can be removed by hand. do so in the reverse sequence of tightening. 12.lift head off. if stuck pry up at the transaxle side.

Replacing the head gasket on any vehicle is a long and complicatedprocess, however if you wish to see basic step-by-step instructions goto the related question on the right side of the page"How do you replace a head gasket?"

No, just replace the radiator. The other one (in the front) is the condenser for the a/c system.

The starter on a 91 Chevy cav. is located at the lower front end of the engine.

You can get to it better by jacking the front of the car and attacking it from underneath.

If it does this after run on hiway, it can be the tcc in the trans. If it does it all the time try cleaning the idle control solonoid and the inside of the throtle body.

On a 1994, It should be on the manifold coming off the engine. It looks like the end of a pezzo lighter on the burner from a large barbque. On the manifold, it has one wire coming off it, just like the barbeque lighter and the shaft sticking inside the manifold should be white like the lighter. Why do you want to repace it? What is your check engine light on?

On some engines (e.g. 2.4L) the water pump is inside the timing cover. Apparently it's not easily replaced... local garage wants $1200 to replace it and recommends replacing timing chain at the same time. ON THE 2.2 ITS LOCATED DIRECTLY UNDER THE ALTERNATOR. REAL EASY TO CHANGE.

After the engine has cooled to a certain temp, it should shut off. If it is running constantly, this is an indication the engine is overheating.

Replacing a thermostat is a relatively easy task. If your temperature gauge is running way down on the low side and your heater isn't putting out much heat, it's time to replace the thermostat. Here is a description of how to change a thermostat. The exact location of your thermostat may be slightly different but most of them are near the top radiator hose in the top of the engine. The thermostat is normally in a housing which is at the engine end of the top radiator hose. Drain the coolant into a drain pan - toss it down the john - it's the correct way to dispose of it. Take a screwdriver and remove the hose clamp from the top hose where it meets the top of the engine. Get a flashlight and see if you can peek down the hole and see the thermostat. If it is faulty it will be open. Not all thermostat housings are identical but typically it will be held on with two bolts. Remove them. Tap the thermostat housing with a wooden block or a soft faced hammer. It should pop off easily. You can then see the thermostat. Lift it out. Don't sweat the gasket - you are going to replace it anyway. Use a new gasket. Scrape EVERYTHING off both mating surfaces. Use a single edged razor blade. Apply some blue rubber sealant to both sides of the gasket. Then grab it between your fingers and "squeegee" any excess off. You don't need a lot of sealant. Make sure you put the gasket on the right side of the thermostat. The stat will normally fit into a recess in the engine, the gasket goes on top and the housing on top of that. Wipe a bit of blue rubber sealant inside the hose, put it back onto the housing nipple and clamp it back in place.

NOTE: Some Cavaliers do not have a traditional gasket but use a rubber ring around the thermostat. If this is the case with your model, do not use gasket sealant.

You should probably drain all of the coolant by draining the block but if you can't find the small plug it the side of the engine don't sweat it. You should mix antifreeze and water in a ratio of 50-50 and replace what you drained out with the fresh mix. If you can't get all the replacement mix in while it's cold just warm it up a bit and watch the level drop as the thermostat opens up. Then add mix until it is totally filled. Replace the radiator cap and put a quart or so in the overflow bottle (which you should have drained previously).

remove two torx screws that hold down the bracket which hold down the injectors. then you can pry out the injector whit an screwdriver but becareful not to damage the injector or o-rings

Try the rear side of the radiator approx. 1/3 down from the top

Hey April==This is a pretty big job. Take the window crand and inside door handlw off and any screws you can find that hold the trim pad on. Then with a special tool available at the parts store, take the retainers loose from both sides and across the bottom of the pad and remove the trim pad. Then you have to take part of the linkage loose inside th edoor and remove the window channel and install it on the new glass. There are a lot of very sharp edges inside the door that can cut you pretty bad {from experience} so be careful.. You might want to just take it to the trim shop. GoodluckJoe

FINDING A RECENT POST MADE BY AN INEXPERIENCE PERSON MISLEADING THE PUBLIC, I NOW FEEL I MUST REMIND OTHERS THAT........

Blown head Gaskets are NOT BLOWN by the oil reservoir being filled to much. A high level of oil will NOT increase oil pressure.

An oil pump has a set amount of pressure allowed and no matter how much oil you over fill it, it will not increase pressure. It may make a mess or cause the engine to smoke BUT IT WILL NOT BLOW HEAD GASKETS.

A head gasket typically blows from an engine that is running overly hot and it's coolant has lost the ability to keep temperature below normal levels.

Loss of coolant. This causes an engine to get overly hot and expand to much. The two mating surfaces of the Engine Block and Cylinder Head where the gasket lays may expand away from each other and/ or the head itself may warp slightly causing the oil , coolant, or both to leak into each other or into the combustion chamber.

Some may think that if there is no water in the oil, or vice-a-verse then it can't be the head gasket. That can't be further than the truth.

The gasket keeps the OIL , the COOLANT, & the COMBUSTION CHAMBER separate from one another.

If an engine hasn't been properly maintained , like the oil changed regularly & the coolant system flushed & clean, it will develop contaminants and cause deterioration of the gasket. This will eventually cause a gasket to fail.

Because of the water jacket ( or ports) and the the combustion chamber being in such close proximity, a gasket failing between those two areas, will cause only the coolant to escape and it go into a combustion chamber. The coolant will immediately turn to steam and go out the exhaust without the driver knowing until it is to late.

During this phenomena, because the head is so extremely hot in the area of the exhaust valve , the sudden change in temperature from the coolant hitting the head may also cause the head to crack in a place where the metal is thinner.

The crack itself may then go across two areas of critical importance where a sudden change in engine performance alerts the driver of a problem.

The same applies to the oil jacket. It may leak into the combustion chamber but immediately will burn and cause a smoke to develop out the exhaust, giving warning.

Because both water & oil don't belong in the combustion chamber, the engine may start to misfire and/ or run poorly, giving a driver a false sense that a tune-up is all that may be needed.

It is important to regularly flush a coolant system & maintain clean oil and their levels to prevent catastrophic failure that can lead to thousands of dollars in repairs.

On the bottom of the button at the lower right corner of the panel are two tiny buttons marked hr and mn. They can be hard to see. Just push them to change the time BUT you must hold each button in for a few seconds before it starts to respond. The radio must be turned off when you change the time.

TAke the belt off, then the neg battery cable. Remove the wires and mounting bolts.

I would add that it's a very tight fit but you can remove the old unit and insert the new unit without having remove or relocate other parts/brackets. I did the job myself, and there were several times I almost gave up - but it can be done it just takes time to rotate and jimmy it into the position for mounting.

Chrysler's in general have a bad reputation when it comes to starter replacement, and in some cases one must disassemble a good amount of the car just to reach the plagued part (You do not have to remove anything from the car to reach the starter, it is located (not *) on all Chrysler leBarons on the cars front, but you have to lift the car up. Then there is 1 wire to be unpluged and another to be unscrewed to remove the electrical connecton. Then you must remove 4 bolts and the starter can be pulled away from the driver's side - pls. calculate 10 mins. for removing and another 10 mins. to mount the new starter, kinda easy work to be done). Fortunately the Chrysler LeBaron has most of it's belts to the left instead of in the front. Most of the time the starter is on the opposite side of the belts, in this case you will find the starter to the right of the engine block.

The LeBaron has a K body, so jack-up the car at the nose. Make very sure you engage your emergency break system and use some sort of stopper on both wheels for safety. Also make very sure you are making repairs to the car on a flat surface. That last thing you want is to be killed during as simple procedure as changing a starter.

Remove the power terminal from the battery post to prevent any electrical shortage.

Follow the red power lead from the battery to the starter located in the middle of the vehicle just to the left of the oil filter. There is 3 9/16" hex bolts that hold the starter to the engine, remove the bolts in a standard counter clockwise motion to

Mark the location of the spline shaft on the flange of the starter so when you put the new one in it goes on the same way.

Remove the 1/2" bolt that holds on the red power 16 gauge wire, clean and wire brush the wire terminal ends for good clean connection.

Follow this same procedure for re-installation of the new starter.

-> * on the 4 cyl. engines the starter is BEHIND the engine, between turbo and transaxles and you have to remove the engine mounts in front and at the back of the engine, move the engine towards the front and then you can try to remove the screws and the electric connections. this uses about 1-2 hrs. of work and it is much more difficult than at the V6 engines

->> It ist NOT a K-Body, it is a J-Body (V6 3,0 Liters are all J-Bodies).

You just lift the car on the front, then you will see the starter just at the front end of the engine, remove the 4 screws, remove the 2 cables (one is fixed with a screw) and then pull the starter to the passenger side. The new starter is to stick in in the opposite direction, screw on the 4 screws and fix the wires (one with a screw fixed, too).

Totally you will not use more than 15 mins on the V6 engines to replace the starter.

I totally agree about the 2.2 and 2.5 Litres, on them, it is crappy to remove the starter....

press and hold the clock button then push the seek/scan to change