1982-1994 Chevy Cavaliers

Disconnect battery. You will need two wrenches to disconnect the battery. One to secure the bolt, and the other to undo the nut on the other end. You will need a half inch wrench to undo the battery. The starter itself is on the underside of the truck. It is in the center front of the truck, a bit toward the passenger side of the truck. It is a black cylinder, about 6inches long. You will need to get under the truck to access it. Since the starter is next to other components, plan on using your socket wrench to undo the bolts. The starter is mounted with 2 bolts, remove them. (Some are mounted with 3 bolts - the third is hidden on the top of the starter. You will know if it has a third because it won't slide out easily.) Remove Positive wire from solinoid. Remove red wire with plastic black end by simply pulling on it. Starter is out! Take the old starter to the autoparts store with you when you buy the new starter. The parts store will give you a significant discount on the new part in exchange for returning the old starter.

Turn off the car!!! and then set the radio... if you look carefully somewhere you should see a button that says time (it is black but raised) press and hold it while u press similar buttons for min and hr.

Look in the owner's manual.

You will be relieved to know it is very easy. Locate the Tune button and at the bottome of it there are 2 small buttons, one to the left and the right. When you depress them it will cahne the hour(left) and the right will change the minute. Cathleen

Push the clock button, then push the tune button. Up for minutes. Down for Hours.

If an electronic component gets hot, that means it is dissipating energy as heat. It is converting energy from one form to another. Resistors do this by design. Inductors and capacitors do this due to internal resistance, (and often overcurrent). Semiconductors (Transistors, ICs) also dissipate heat due to their internal resistances, and their switching mechanisms of changing state.

Mine is a 1999 Accord V6 coupe and I don't think there's a horn fuse. There is a horn relay under the hood in the back left in a black plastic box. On mine there are 3 identical relays (2 for headlights and 1 for the horn). If the 4-cylinder has the same arrangement as the V6 you could switch the relays to see if that was the problem.

I had the same problem once and took it to Firestone. They told me that you need to pull the level out really hard, don't worry it won't come out, and the hood should pop open. I wouldn't recommend this because yours might differ.

check if it is getting fire

If it has a cable attached to the throtle linkage, release it by moving the locking tang and pulling the cable all the way to the rear. Then get inside and floor the accelerator and it will automatically adjust the cable.

Not really a hard proceddure. Your biggest challenge will be to reset the timing on the engine, but can be done relatively easily if done right. Simply mark timing belt, Cam gear, and top of block with a permanent marker. Good idea is to rotate engine by using a large socket on the crankshaft until timing marks line up, then mark all items (timing belt, Cam gear, and top of block) First, you've got to remove all the items connected to the head itself, (carb assembly and any other items). A good idea is to take some digital photos of the top, side and all items connected to the head so you can reference when re-assembling later. After removing all components, remove the valve cover. Once removed, you'll have to take out all the head bolts. These will be REALLY tight due to each bolt being torqued. Remove the head, use a large plastic mallet (hammer) and loosen the head by tapping on the sides. Once loose, remove the head and place on a soft surface (several layers of cardboard) Use a putty knife and remove the old head gasket. Scrape any residual oil build up or other material from head and top of engine block. Place new head gasket on the engine block in accordance with service manual or MFG recommendations. Carefully replace head on top of the head gasket and place head bolts into holes you removed them from. Tighted down with regular socket drive until nice and snug. Use torque wrench and tighten bolts using star method as indicated in service manual or ask anyone who's worked on engines to show you. Reset Cam and timing marks with marks you made and replace the timing belt. Use photos you took prior to disassembly to place all items back on the head.

They are the same car....for the most part. There may be some differences in engine mount style or location. If you have the 2.0 to pull parts from it would help. The biggest problem I could see would be the ECM. I'm not sure if the wiring is the same or not. At the very least you would need the PROM from the Cavalier.

1996

If it's not broke why fix it, however a 2002 starter would probably have been replaced at least three to fives times based on it's now 2007 soon will be 2008. The fact that most starters last usually a year or year and a half. If that does not answer your question it's might be best to reflect to your owners manual or car dealership for advice.

He was not asking how long until the old started would quit. he is trying to say that he starter is broken and wants to know the length of time that it would take to replace it.

The correct answer is..... that it would probably take you around a hour, if you know what you are doing and have the right tools.

It sounds like your plug wires are grounded to the engine block. IE.... melted somehwere along the exhaust route and grounded, noticeable when you put it in gear......

I don't think so, i have a 1993 cavalier 2.2L auto, which does the same thing, i put new plug wires on it about a month ago, and it still has the same vibration.

I would check your motor mounts. I had a 90 Sunbird and now have a 91 Cavalier, both of which had this problem. When you pull up to a stop light the whole car vibrates rather aggressively, but is calmed when the car is put into park or neutral. In both cars the motor mounts were bad causing the motor to jostle inside the engine compartment, but when you are actually driving the engine is torqued against the mounts and ceases to rattle. On the 2.2 there are 4 mounts, Right Front (by the engine coolant overflow tank), Right Rear (right above the trans axle), Left Front (looks like a dog bone on the bottom by the radiator) and the transmission mount (on top on the left by the wheel well).

Last night I replaced the right front and right rear and this solved my problem.

Turn on A/C and see if the fan is running. It should run continually with the A/C on. If it is not, check the fuse, or fan motor itself. If it does run with the A/C on and no any other way, then check the thermal relay.

how to adjust the lifters and tie rods

The sensor is located up under the car, look near the oil filter, you will see both sensors

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First, gain access to the back of the socket.

Unplug the wiring connector to the socket.

From the back, unscrew the sleeve holding the socket in place.

From the front, pull the socket out.

Reverse procedure to install unit.

Oops, I thought you wanted a procedure for replacing the lighter socket. To replace the lighter itself, just pull it out and push a new one in.

This was exactly what was happenning to my 1989 Ford Bronco 351W engine. After it warmed up, it worked OK. It turned out to be a stuck/rusty EGR valve. I had replaced a few inexpensive parts until I realized what it was. I simply removed it from the block and sprayed the inside with wd40 and attempted to carefully work it back and forth. This fixed it up and its been working fine for a year now. In an extreme case, you might have to get a new one.

You can buy a spray from any local department store that has an autmotive section. The spray is for wet spark plugs and when you dowse them and your distributor cap it clears the water off.

If you try this and the car fires up on those wet days and eminates your problem then you know it results from damp spark plugs and distributor.

If you have never replaced a new set with wires and cap - do it and reap the rewards.

Likely a spark problem. Might be a cracked distributor cap, or faulty wires. Moisture makes insulators more conductive, and reduces the spark that can be generated, therefore no spark in the cylinder

1991 had its own pecular transmission. I know this because I personally tried to find one. The electronic controls are different for that year from any other. It has to be one for a 1991.

My experience is with a 2002 Impala so this may not apply, however since I had an identical problem and it is a GM product also, here goes: The fuel level sending unit had corroded, bent, contacts. My unit was inside the gas tank and requires quite a bit of work to remove. A very helpful website for this is www.impalahq.com

no dipstick......you have to take off the front left wheel and you will see a little tank with 2 knob/bolts on it.....it will show how much too fill

crank seal

Don't know what it is supposed to be but I had mine checked because I thought that I had one low. All 6 cylinders were between 145 and 150 psi and my engine is in good shape. I turned out that one of my spark plug leads was leaking. I do know that all cylinders should be within about 10 - 15psi of each other.

That is certainly a possibility. Shifter linkage can cause problems with transmissions but you cannot know for certain without getting a little closer to the problem.

If the transmission shifts out of and back into park and the wheels actually lock then it's PROBABLY not a shift linkage problem. If you aren't mechanically inclined you may need to take the vehicle to a specialist.

If the transmission is shifting out of park normally but the transmission will not engage, you probably have something wrong with the transmission, such as the hydraulic pump, internal valve body, clutch pack or any of a number of other potential problems.

Good luck.