Alternators

I'm assuming that if you leave you vehical over night or longer it goes dead, not while driving? check for a stuck relay or a glove box or trunk light left on.

I just replaced the alternator on my 2002, 6 cylinder, jeep liberty sport. The cost for the alternator itself came out to $174.99, including taxes it came out to $192.14. I did the labor myself and it was the worst 4 hours of my life.

In order to replace the alternator belt on a Ford Aspire, you must first loosen up the belt to its left, the one that drives the AC (air conditioning) compressor. You do that by loosening two bolts on the top end of the belt, next to the left of the most left spark plug, as you look towards the windshield. There is a bolt on a shaft. Loosen that one first. You do not need to get it off completely. After that, loosen the bolt that is the middle of the pulley, to the left of that shaft. Now the pulley should go down and you can take off the belt. Next step is to loosen the alternator belt, if it's not already broken. Get underneath the car and look for the alternator. On the bottom left side of the alternator is a bolt you need to loosen a few good turns. Now go back up and look on the top end of the belt an alternator. There is a small alternator bracket that has the alternator secured to it by a bolt, by your left hand. Unscrew that bolt. You should be able to move the alternator back and forth and loosen the old belt enough to be able to take it off, if it is not already broken and missing. Using same movement, back and forth, you should be able to put the new belt on. Go underneath the car again, pull back on the alternator and tighten bolt again. Come back up and with a lever push on the alternator so you can get the alternator belt as tight as possible, while with your left hand you tighten back the bolt and secure the alternator to its upper bracket. This is VERY important, that you tighten both belt and bolt sufficiently, or else the belt will come loose in traffic, like it happened to me. Put back the AC belt. Tighten the bolt on the left of the pulley. Using a lever tighten the belt as much as possible, while you tighten the shaft bolt to the right of the pulley and left of the most left spark plug. Having someone help you would use up your work a little, especially in the final stage. Tightening the belts and trying to tighten the bolts at the same time is a bit challenging, to say the least. Of course, having light and decent weather helps too, but you could do this in the parking lot of a car part shop or Walmart if you have the belt/s and the right tools.

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get a repair book at a pepboys or other auto store. The book will help you with a lot of questions including your alternator question. the book runs about 15-20 dollars. it's a good investment

Remove the neg. {black} battery cable.

Disconect the two sets of wires from the alternator {one is bolted onto a post, the other is a plug}.

Remove the tension on the belt buy moving the tensioner with a wrench or the special tool. {the tensioner is a pulley on a spring loaded arm bolted to the block, refer to the belt routing sticker under the hood}

Remove the three or four bolts that mount the alternetor and remove it.

The install is the reverse of removal, the belt tension is self adjusting.

Make sure the battery is charged.

when you replace the alternater you need to replace the battery There is a moderate rate of defective new or rebuilt alternators and voltage regulators. This can be as much as on in 20 to one in 15. I mention voltage regulators because often later cars have the voltage regulator built into the alternator. I replaced a bum alternator with a rebuilt one, only to find that a week later my battery was low. I replaced the old battery, and all was well for three weeks, when my new battery ran down. Monitoring the battery voltage when the car was running told the tale. The alternator/regulator was only holding the battery up at 13.2V while idling, not the 14V minimum that the service manual specified. Back to the shop for another unit!

There is a serpentine belt on a fronteir, so is this a trick question? If not then there is a diagram on your fan cover. There may be a serpentine belt on new models, but older models such as a 98 have three different belts. So, NO, not a trick questions. Just an honest questions. Anyone have an answer as to how to change all three?

The top belt is for power steering and is the easiest to change. Just loosen the idler pulley (if you're looking down at the belt, it's the pulley on the top right) until you can remove the belt. The hardest part is working it around the fan, but the whole job can be done in five or ten minutes. The alternator belt is harder to reach, but you should see one pulley where the tension can be adjusted, so you would remove/replace it the same way.

That depends on the make, model, and year of car. If it is a ford from 1980 - 1990 then it is most likely a bad earth connection to the body of the car. Other cars have other problems that can also cause this.

Large terminal on alt goes to battery pos, small wire on alt goes through bulb to ignition switch feed. When alt is not turning the ignition feed goes through bulb to small term, which is earthed through alt hence light is on when ignition on but engine stopped. When engine starts the alt creates 12v volts on small which breaks earth and turns light out. Alt will not work without 12v ignition feed to small term as power is required to start charging process. Tried to simplify it down, hope it helps.

best place to go to would be www.partsgateway.co.uk or there is a place i sued for my alternator in witham called Essex Motors on 01376 651648

it's all one belt

in series to the battery from the alternator following polarity

Built into the alternator.

A pair of slip rings on the rotor carries current from the stationary brushes to the rotor windings in order to establish a magnetic field. As the alternator rotates, the magnetic field sweeps across the stator windings inducing an electric current in these windings. This current is an alternating current which is rectified via diodes and passed out of the alternator by means of the battery lead and (usually) the grounded alternator case. The battery voltage is sensed and used to vary the amount of current fed to the rotor in order to adjust the amount of current generated.

It depends on the vehicle. On some newer models, a computer reads the voltage from the battery and has direct control over the bulb. On older vehicles the bulb was direct wired in such way that when the alternator started to charge it sent voltage up the ground wire of the bulb. That causes voltage on both sides of the bulb and no current flow so the bulb did not light.

it goes on the crank water pump and alternator

I came here looking to find the answer to that question. I'm switching out the alternator in my paseo. the housing needs to be loosened on the alternator to reduce tension on the belt and then the belt should slide off the side... there is very little tension to release so the belt is just kinda stuck... I'm going to get a screw driver and pry it off... how I'm going to get the belt back on is another story that I'll deal with this evening

system over charges when the voltage regulater fails. thses are either built in to the alternator or stand alone in the engine bay,depending on what vehicle you are driving. you will need to have this checked to find out which one you have and then have problem corrected

Do yourself a favor have them check your new alternator before taking it home? I had a bad incident that I ended up with, 3 bad alternators in one day, 3 different stores. Last store check it before I took it home and everything was good. I ended up changing it 3 times. Make sure they also change the pulley. Alternator Removal & Installation 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Rotate the drive belt tensioner away from the drive belt and remove the drive belt from the alternator pulley. 3. Detach the electrical harness connectors at the alternator assembly. 4. Disconnect the positive battery cable and remove the nut and washer. 5. Remove 2 front alternator bolts. 6. Remove the rear alternator support bracket retaining bolts and the support bracket. 7. Remove the alternator from the vehicle. To install: 8. Place the alternator in position and loosely install 2 front alternator retaining bolts. 9. Install the alternator bracket and 3 alternator bracket bolts. Tighten to 84 inch lbs. (10 Nm) 10. Tighten 2 front alternator retaining bolts to 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm). 11. Connect 2 electrical hardness connectors to the alternator assembly. 12. Connect the positive battery cable and install the nut and washer. Tighten the nut to 72 inch lbs. (8 Nm). 13. Rotate the drive belt tensioner away from the drive belt and install the drive belt on the alternator pulley. 14. Connect the negative battery cable. 15. Start the engine and check for proper charging system operation.

send it to a garage???????

I haven't done it, but I think its an easy job. I can't find a link describing how to do it, but its almost self explanatory, there are 2 or 3 bolts, one on top and one on the bottom of the alternator, loosen them and you can easily push the alternator back to loosen and remove the serpentine belt that goes around the alternator's pulley (replace the belt at the same time if you want). You can keep removing the bolts holding the alternator on to completely remove it. You may need some kind of open end wrench in order to get the clearance you need to completely remove those bolts.

With great difficulty, you need to jack the car up then remove the drivers side wheel and engine splashguard, remove the alternator belt by undoing the tensioner pulley, then the best way to go forward is to remove the bolts for the alternator then remove the alternator wiring and plug then the bracket that holds the alternator on it is a fiddly job and not one to be taken too lightly, once you remove the bracket you have to wiggle the alternator down the way and remove it from underneath the car, you should have removed the battery neg terminal before starting this job and also the use of axle stands is obligatory hope this is of help all told around 2hrs for a competent mechanic

There is a belt tightener on the alternator which must be loosened to take the belt off. After the belt is loose, remove the bottom mounting bolt and the alternator is off. you will also need to remove the wiring.