Alternators

I can't believe the people that don't state make, model, year and engine size before posting a question.

It is built into the ECU.

First thing to do is fix the leak that allowed oil onto the belt in the first place. Then replace the contaminated belt with a new belt.

OR WHILE THE CAR IS RUNNING SPRAY ENGINE DEGREASER ON THE GROOVES OF THE BELT. YOU COULD TRY DISH SOAP AS WELL. IT MIGHT TAKE A WHILE TO GET ALL OF THE OIL OFF, BUT KEEP SPRAYING IT AND EVENTUALLY THE BELT WILL BE CLEAN AND THE SQUEAK WILL STOP

how to change alternator in acura 1999 cl

The engine computer is also the regulator.

It should be self adjusting, if it is slipping it could mean you need a new belt or a new belt tensioner.

Loosen the alternator bolt and lean it forward to relief the tension there. Find the lock bolt on the front end of the assembly (just follow the belts) and you need to unscrew the locking bolt and then unscrew the tensioniner....it's near impossible to explain this without pictures.

Simple anwser is no though they both do same thing the marine grade alternator is shielded so no spark reaches your bildge omcase you jave fuel leak it would be real bad you should never y

use automotive parts on boat. also if you get spit checked by coast guard or state police one you will be forced to pay a huge fone and two they will force you tp return your boat back and suspend your regestration till u fix the problem

There is something on that is pulling power from the battery. Any light or any relay that is stuck will drain the battery.

Remove the serpentine belt take out the bolts that hold the alternator to the engine disconnect the wires from the alternator

Yes, but first step: remove the negative battery cable from the battery. You might get some fireworks otherwise.

disconnect neg. battery cable. remove bolt, unplug one connector, remove one 13mm nut and remove wires, remove two bolts upper and lower, and its out, sometimes you have to wiggle bottom back and forth to free up.

Jack up the right front wheel and place the car on jack stands. Remove the wheel and the inspection plate behind it. Loosen the nut in the center of the belt tensioner and then back off the tension using the tension adjuster from the top of the engine. Undo the belt and unbolt the tensioner itself and remove it to get it out of the way. Unbolt the A/C compressor (4 bolts), but DON'T undo the A/C hose or clutch wire - just let it hang down out of the way. Remove the ground wire from the battery. Undo the bracket that holds the top of the alternator in place and remove it. Unbolt the positive cable from the alternator and unplug the wires to the voltage regulator (squeeze and gently pull it out - don't break it). Now the hard part - you have to reach the head of the bolt holding the alternator on with a 14mm box end wrench and back it out. There's not much room here, but it can be done. Pull the bolt out with your fingers (oh by the way, you can't see what your doing you have to work by feel). Now the alternator can be dropped out the bottom past the A/C compressor. Installation is the reverse procedure. One tip - when you try to put that stupid bolt back in that stupid place where you can't see, all the while trying to hold the new alternator into position with one hand and shove the bolt back in with the other, you're going to find it hard to get everything lined up so the bolt will go back in. What I did that helped was to take a small bolt and place it in from the other end so the alt. would hang on it temporarily until I could get the bolt lined up and inserted. Also if you have a tapered steel rod of some kind it helps line up the holes (I used a nail set). Good luck and expect skinned knuckles. I have not got as far as replacing the alt, when taking out I unplugged the A/C wire and that gave me more room (not easy to do) and if you have a Ratcheting box end much easier to take that blind bolt out. With A/C lower you can see the darn thing.

if the car dies when the lights come on then IT IS your alternator. Another way to test this would to be after you start your car take the battery cables off of the battery. if your alternator is good then the car should keep the car running. besides that there could just be a bad connection. if you live near an auto zone or a store of that sort they have machined they can hook up and read the prob inside. if it's nothing the it can reset it also.

You will first need to loosen the serpentine belt in order to remove it from the drive pulley. After that, it is bolted to the engine in 2 locations, which should be rather obvious, then remove electrical connections.

The alternator has pretty much the same setup as does most 'real' cars. Two ears that have bolts mounting it to the block, and one adjusting bolt. Remove all electrical connectors (battery disc) then physically remove the alternator. There should be lots of room to remove it. Good luck.

it could possibly need a tune up change the spark plugs and wires get them tested out first @ auto zone they might not be getting enough fire to them to crank the car.

You can put a volt meter across the battery terminals, if it is working you should have 12.6 or more volts. Some alternators will not charge is voltage is too low however. You can always have it tested, some autoparts shops can test it while it is still installed on your truck. Auto Zone in my local area offers this service free of charge.

The function of the altenator regulator is to regulate voltage to the ecm to avoit any damage to critical component

From 13.5 to 16 volts.

If the alternator is functioning properly you should read somewhere around 13.5 to 15.5 volts DC at the battery with the engine running at idle.

I'm not positive about the GRAND Marquis, but the Marquis does have an external voltage regulator. Located on the passenger side wheel well. It's a slim silver box that simply plugs in. Easy replacement...........

That truck should already have dual alternators on it. I have six F-450 2WD service trucks in my fleet (a MAJOR West Coast Fire department) & all of them have dual alts standard- in fact, Ford built them no other way. The top alternator is about 140 amps & the bottom unit (right/lower in front of the exhaust manifold) is 120 amps. If for some reason you have a single alternator set-up (one large one centered on top), then you can get the complete dual set-up with wiring from a wrecked/salvaged E350 or E450 Ford Rescue Ambulance package. Get the whole enchilada: serpentine belt pullies, idlers, A/C pulley, W/P pulley, tensioner, etc. The dual alternator package may have a wider belt on the E Series than the F Series & belt width is critical. There's a difference in the wiring harness, too. Good luck.

take off the drivers side tire, then the plastic splash gaurd. alternator will be right there

No it can not. If the belt is missing that could cause it to run hot.

I'm assuming that if you leave you vehical over night or longer it goes dead, not while driving? check for a stuck relay or a glove box or trunk light left on.