Buick LeSabre

on the fuel rail to the side

you have to trick the ac computer by shuting it off then restarting it...

take it to a transmission shop. The problem is in the tcc valve body.

The opposite way you took it off

under the radiator and cooling fans, right in the middle.

Turn on the power knob for the radio/clock. Wait until the clock display shows up. Press "set", and use the "scan" and "seek" buttons to set the time. Hope this helps!

The door panels are held in place by a lot of plastic "push-in" clips. Just to make it interesting there are two different lengths, some of the outer-edge clips are longer and will "snag" the panel when trying to remove it. Finally the "arm rest" has is connected by two "slider" clips that are easily broken [and easily repaired should you make the mistake of getting impatient while taking the panel off]. These clips are actually U-shaped with the "U" being upside down, so you will have to pull the panel upwards to lift it off the clip supports. Finally there is a plastic moisture shield held in-place by a nice gooey tar substance. If you can, use a cheap 3" black plastic spatula, same kind used to flip burgers or pancakes, to pop the edge-clips. Insert the spatula [or carefully pry outwards with your fingers] on the bottom of the door panel. Work you way to the each side, using either your fingers or the spatula to pry the panel away from the door. Each side of the panel has longer clips near the top and may take some more prying to loosen or release them. After all the edges have been released or popped free, the arm-rest is next. There are two ways to release the clips, the proper way is to lift the entire panel so that the U-shaped clips clear the supports, the other way is to just pull the panel away, which will break the internal plastic "welds" holding the arm-rest plate assembly to the door. If you choose the latter because it's easier, or you get tired of arguing with the panel, you can easily repair the welds afterwards with some screws. After enough prying and pulling the panel will come free. Next is the moisture shield, do not cut or destroy this! Simply start pulling back the plastic and with a finger loosen the tar-like substance, you will find that the tar likes the plastic and will stick to it as you slowly pry the plastic off the door frame. Don't take the plastic completely off the door, just peel back enough so you can access the window regulator or what-ever you were after inside the door. Re-assembly Put the plastic moisture barrier back in place, first just get about where it needs to go, then press the edges firmly to reseat it. If you broke the the arm-rest plastic "welds" holding the metal plate to the U-shaped clips, you can use two sheet metal screws [ at least 1 inch long ] to screw the metal plate back to the panel. The screws will go where the "welds" use to be. Use Phillips type screws with large heads, you will need to tighten these pretty tight. Smaller screws or flat-blade types will just make you mad because either the heads will be stripped off or the screw-driver keeps slipping. It should be pretty obvious how the arm-rest clips are held-on. You will need to place the panel a couple of inches higher and then slide it down so the "U-shaped" clips are re-seated, once this is done all of the other "push-in" clips will align themselves with the holes they came out-of. Press firmly or use the palm of your hand to "tap" the panel back in to place. Comments The LeSabre's [particularly the 2000 models] windows regulators are poorly made using plastic instead of metal. These will break due to heat, cold, someone prying down on the window, or even hitting a bump in the road. Many auto parts stores are now carrying the LeSabre regulator, cost is typically $99 for an OEM replacement. Seems like the better ones are made in China, while the ones made in the US are the worst. My 2000 LeSabre has gone through 8 US-made regulators, and so far, none of the Chinese-made ones has failed. Maybe the Chinese make better plastic?

exterior temp. sensor is located at the bottom in front of the radiator.If temp is way off or not showing you will need to replace sensor.

because stupid, YOU GOT THE WRONG KEY Typically, the most common reason for the key to be "stuck" in the ignitions, is that the steering wheel is turned from the center position, which causes the ignition interlock feature to be "jammed". By manipulation of the steering wheel, to where there is no tension on it, will usually allow the key to be moved to a psoition to where it can be removed. Typically, the most common reason for the key to be "stuck" in the ignitions, is that the steering wheel is turned from the center position, which causes the ignition interlock feature to be "jammed". By manipulation of the steering wheel, to where there is no tension on it, will usually allow the key to be moved to a position to where it can be removed.

I would highly suspect that there is a bulb out. Remove the Eight million hand tightened screws and the trunk lense will come out to access the socket. But check to see which one is out first.

fuse #44 behind left side of dash

Where is the a Alternator located on 1999 buick lesabre

The lock assembly is located in the center of the door panel of 1987 Buick LeSabre. Use of a Slim Jim is only legal for locksmiths and law enforcement officers.

most any small block GM motor, maybe even a big block but im sure u'll rip that transmission out

Then either post it on Craigslist or sell it for scrap. This isn't a classified ads website.

A few things could be causing a grinding sound when turning. It could be a cv axle, ball joint, tie rod end, or bracket pin steering.

There are two Phillips screws holding the door strap. Pry/work the extreme end of the strap out (untuck) and the screws are under neath.

There is one torg screw holding the handle plate then manipulate it off the handle.

The top part of the armrest pry s out from the lower part and reveals two Phillips screws.

The window switch pries out from the side and can then be removed from the harness.

Get between the panel and the door and pry out each retainer; try to get as cloose as possible to each retainer.

remove panel

remove clear plastic.

grind the pop rivets holding the motor bracket and also the the door handle bracket and also the regulator.

disconnect wire from motor

remove two 10mm bolts holding window to regulator.

push window up and tape closed to get glass out of the way.

Cuss the designer and work the motor and regulator out the biggest hole.

Buy appropriate sized nuts and bolts to replace the rivets to reassemble

Dieter Schmied

3.8 liter v6

Unplug the power cable by pulling it straight out. Drain the coolant. There is a screw in the block heater. Loosen this screw, probably a Phillips. Put a drain pan under the heater and pull the heater out by hand. If the heater is stubborn. grasp it with pliers and pull hard. If there is collant in the block, it will probably shoot out, so wear glasses and watch out for coolant! Clean the hole with a rag or paper. Press the new heater into the hole by hand making sure the rubber gasket is seated. Tighten the screw in the heater and it will suck the heater into place. Plug in the new power chord that comes with the heater. Refill the radiator with coolant. Test the heater by plugging it into 110 ac. Reach behind the power cable and touch the block heater. It might make a humming sound and should be starting to get warm in a minute or so. Now you are ready for -40 degree temperatures. It takes the heater 3 hours to properly heat the engine block on a very cold day. Unplug the power cable by pulling it straight out. Drain the coolant. There is a screw in the block heater. Loosen this screw, probably a Phillips. Put a drain pan under the heater and pull the heater out by hand. If the heater is stubborn. grasp it with pliers and pull hard. If there is collant in the block, it will probably shoot out, so wear glasses and watch out for coolant! Clean the hole with a rag or paper. Press the new heater into the hole by hand making sure the rubber gasket is seated. Tighten the screw in the heater and it will suck the heater into place. Plug in the new power chord that comes with the heater. Refill the radiator with coolant. Test the heater by plugging it into 110 ac. Reach behind the power cable and touch the block heater. It might make a humming sound and should be starting to get warm in a minute or so. Now you are ready for -40 degree temperatures. It takes the heater 3 hours to properly heat the engine block on a very cold day.

There is a small black thing under the steering wheel more to the right side of it and what you do is you pull the outside of the thing out and while doing that press the inner part IN. its hard but you get used to it :)

laurisxy@gmail.com

It is very complicated and necessary to have a manual telling you how it's done. I would take it to an auto trim shop. First, you'll need to remove the wood trim from the dash. It is held in by a series of clips, so it's just a matter of carefully popping the trim out. Once the wood trim pieces are removed, next you'll remove the vents from the black trim of the dash. Turn them all the way to one side and pull as best as you can. They will pop out (although you might need a screwdriver to wedge in behind if they don't come right out). Removing the wood trim and vents will reveal approximately 10 (don't recall the exact #) torx head screws. Remove those, and then you can remove the black dash panel (you might need to shift the car into neutral to get the panel out).

in the oil

it sounds like your neutral safety switch