Buick Regal

I have been told no you cannot flat tow a 2011 buick regal. I wish you coul

This is pretty simple.

Basically you need to take off the belt and drain the oil out of the supercharger.

From there you have to loosen the 6 bolts that hook up the front of the supercharger to the back. (If you do not drain the oil, the oil will actually leak out once you take these bolts off, which can be messy, so that is why you want to drain the oil first.)

Then you just have to pull the nose away from the main body. And take out the coupler, which is located right on pins of the supercharger.

From there just slide the new coupler on. And then apply gasket maker to both ends of the supercharger main body and the nose.

Put back on the 6 bolts, and hook up all the lines and belts.

Fill up the supercharger with "GM Supercharger Oil" and you are done.

Taking your time, it should take around 1-2 hours.

yes easily

You can disconnect the battery cables for a few mins but that wont take care of the problem. If you live in area where they have Autozone auto parts stores they will scan it for free and tell you what the problem really is by the code that comes upand also advance auto parts stores. if you do disconect the cables read your owners manul first if you have a code to reset etc.

Hi: Believe it or not, it used to be fairly common to do so. Especially when semi hermitic compressors where more common. When the sealed (hermetic) compressor came along it was also done but required some specialty tools to cut the compressor open with fine precission so the re-welding of it would be as good and leak free as possible. It has not been very common practice for a long time now. The main reason for its falling out is basically because compressor soon became higher speed, lighter, and cheaper. Old compressors had a lot of iorn in them and heavier windings so they were larger. Addittionally, most ran at much slower speeds than those produced commonly today. In many cases ( Half ) as fast and usually 3 or 4 times as heavy so of course there cost factor to replace was higher. Don't get me wrong,,,, ( They had some really strong points about them despite their weight and size ) All that extra iorn in them made them able to withstand the more fluctuating voltage conditions of yesteryear. The slower speeds speaks for itself as well. At the same time though, they mfg.s could not hold the tight machining tolerances as well as the can today and also you would have to factor in the stray flux magnetic emission losses from all that extra iorn core in the windings which made them inherintly less efficient. I still occassionally open up a semi-hermetic commercial or industrial compressor for repairs. Especially industrial. ( some of these babes run on hundreds of horsepower and weigh into the tons ) I hope this answer helps: Jimiwane

I need to know if I need a special to to change my serpentine belt on a 2001 Buick Regal

rear 6x9 front 5 1/4

There is a park mechanism on some Centuries that tends to bend if the wipers get used with too much ice or snow. You need to remove the wiper arms, then the plastic cown panels in order to gain access to the wiper motor and trans assy. Once the cowls are removed you may see the metal bracket that contacts the spring loaded finger on the motor has been damaged or bent. You'll need to bend it back up so that it contacts the finger again.

1-6-5-4-3-2

cylinders are numbered as follows

2 4 6

O O O

O O O

1 3 5

front of car

P.S. coil pack 1 to spark plug one, 2 to 2, 3 to 3, etc.

Plan on spending most of the day... It's located in the side pan on the trans. I'll assume you have a 3800 v-6 with a 4t60e trans. I did mine in a 94 olds 88 recently, so it should be very similar if not the same. Remove the tire, separate the lower ball joint (I used a BIG pry bar and hammer). Remove the lower strut bolt, then slide/pull the hub assembly off of the drive axle. You can then swing the strut and hub assembly to the rear, out of the way. You can then "pop" the drive axle out of the trans. I used a pry bar (careful not to pry against the trans side pan). Under the hood, remove the air box assembly, the throttle cable mount, detach the steering column from the rack and pinion, and unbolt the trans cooler lines (if equipped). there are a few sensor wires you need to unplug also. I think that is it.(just remove anything keeping you from reaching all the pan bolts). With a jack under the engine cradle, remove the 3 cradle to body mounting bolts. On the passenger side Loosen the 3 cradle to body bolts (i took them out and then re-attached them by 3-4 threads to give me maximum movement to drop the drivers side of the cradle). Before you unbolt the side pan, drain the fluid out of the bottom pan, of course. On my olds, I didn't have room to take the side pan off, but could move / wiggle it out of the way enough to change all 3 solenoids, plus the TCC solenoid (you can buy the kit on eBay for about $60). There are C clips holding the solenoid into the valve body. It (the clip) has to slide straight out, and will only go in with the solenoid positioned properly (only attaches one way).

I hope this info is what you were looking for.

I had a similar problem on a 93 Regal. I took the plastic housing off where the hood release originally was and was able to get a grip on the release cable. The cable goes out of the cabin near the steering column so you might be able to back track from that point. I would spring for a new cable though as it is a real pain opening the hood with the pliers. I taped the new cable to the old one and snaked thru the engine compartment pretty easily. Good luck.

You need to pull up the center console cover first. Working from front to back carefully pull up to disengage the six pressure clips. You may need to disconnect the traction control wiring connection if you have one. The cup holder is attached to this panel and you can see how to repair or replace it.

On my 1999 Regal the cup holder swing out side piece with the little spring fell off. I was able to retrieve them from under the console. Took me a few minutes to figure out how to put it back and re-engage the little spring. I added tape to secure cup holder top piece to the base to prevent them from separating again. Reattach the traction control wire clip and carefully push down to resecure the console panel.

I believe the same Regal console panel fit from 1997 to 1005 model - but please verify that. Good Luck!

Additional comments: I had removed and fixed the cup holder just as described about, but after a year or so the tape failed and it was broken again. Inspecting the cup assembly closely, I saw the factory joint between the top and the bottom piece of the cup holder were melting a few pieces of plastic tabs. When the plastic tabs breaks, the side hinge assembly and the springs falls off. The top pieces and the bottom pieces butted together. Perfect to add some super glue to glue them together instead of using tape. Since you have the unit out, may as well check the front joint where it attached to the door. It is also another melted plastic tabs. I added super glue to that joint too and the cup holder has been trouble free for 3+ years now.

Try turning the key to "on" position without starting engine and depress the accelerator pedal to the floor 6 times

.

On a 2006 you only need to depress 3 times.

Sorry but they are not the same

Foot on brake pedal or linkage to trans is loose or out of adjustment.

Sounds like a bad cable

Note: When replacing the struts, the mounts will also likely need to be replaced. Have these on hand to speed the repair process.

1. Raise vehicle, block front tires, support with jack stands.

2. Remove rear tire.

3. Install a 6"x3/8" bolt with a washer and nut on it through the hole on top of the auxillary damper (looks like a large rubber bumper behind the caliper). There are threads at the bottom of this opening.

4. Tighten the nut so that it compresses the auxilary damper slightly (just a few turns once it touches the damper).

5. Using a 15/16" wrench, loosen the nuts on the strut to knuckle bolts. These bolts are knurled so there is no need to hold the bolt head while loosening the nuts.

6. Loosen the two strut to body bolts at the top of the wheel well.

7. Lightly support the knuckle with a jack.

8. With the strut to knuckle bolt nuts loosened to the ends of the threads (to protect the threads from damage) knock the bolts through with a hammer. If it feels like there is still considerable tension on these bolts, it may be necessary to adjust the jack or the auxilary damper.

9. Remove the two strut to knuckle bolts and the strut to body bolts.

10. Remove the old strut and mount from the vehicle.

11. Prep the new strut and mount as per the manufacturer's instructions. This usually entails turning the compressed strut counterclockwise until it slowly decompresses. Then, using an Allen wrench and a wrench, the mount is attached to the strut piston.

12. Place the new strut and mount in the vehicle and reinstall strut to body bolts and strut to knuckle bolts. Tighten to manufacturer specs.

13. Remove the bolt from the auxillary damper, replace the wheel, and lower the vehicle.

I believe that one is under the car near the gas tank.

City: 20 MPG

Highway: 29 MPG

yes, it does

I've got a 99 century (regal engine drop)

it does have a rev limiter, and a governor, both of which are controlled by the ECU

to remove it, you'll need to reprogram the ECU through your OBDII port

Regals and Chevrolet's alike around the 2000 model year commonly share this problem. The following solution is only what I have found to be the easiest fix, I'm not saying its the best.

The fuel level sensor inside the tank has two little finger like copper strips on it that contact a resistor trail within the pump. Over time these fingers lose their tension on the strip. My fix was to simply put an extra bend about half way up these fingers to improve their tension on the strip and thereby fixing the 'floating' fuel gauge. Hope this helps. Good luck!

check sunroof for leakage

Sometimes you have to remove the pump.