Car Stereos and Speakers

Most after-market equipment, including Sony, uses a standard color code:

Yellow: constant power

Red: switched power

Black: ground

Orange/white: illumination

Blue/white: amp remote turn-on

Blue: power antenna

Speakers: solid color is positive, black stripe is negative

Left front: white

Right front: gray

Left rear: green

Right rear: violet

Yes the z2x820 will do the job with no problem I have one hooked up to two 15'' in bridged mode and they HIT HARD!!!.

Is this for Home or Auto? I can only speak to Home units. I service units in retail stores. These subs are used everyday for 12 hours. The units are all good makes (avg $600 ea). On average they begin to fail in about two years. So about 700 days @ 12 hours a day.

***now if you are talkin about auto, i can answer that. 10s in a car can vary in their lifetime. Typical use also varies. You may play your music loud or low during a typical day. Everything adds up. Usually they blow or tear the voicecoil, but at an average lifetime, i would have to say, probably 1-2 years, depending on how loud you like your music.

Its ok. I figured it out. Thanks.

I had your same problem 30 years ago on the same car same year every thing. you need to hit it with a hammer until it catches fire then pull it out with your teeth.

Heres an easy way. Go to crutchfield.com and use the outfit my car option. you will fill out your vehicle information and the system will tell you what size speakers you need and list all items they carry specific to your vehicle, including install kits, wiring harnesses, and speakers.

Most speaker cones are made out of paper/ material and metal but a actual speaker consistent of many things including a Battery case, Wires, PCB, nuts, bolts jack socket etc!

I have two single voice coil, 4 ohm, 300W (rms) subs [Pioneer TS-W304C x 2]

Connected to a 5 channel amp via the sub port which delivers 300W total (150W to each sub)

The other 4 channels power my door speakers [Alpine PDX-5][Alpine SPS-610 x 2]

I would like to change this setup and provide closer power to the subs RMS Wattage of 300W each.

My main question is what amp/s would be suitable to power my subwoofers and how do i wire them?

I'd also like to know performance contrasts between powering them from one mono amp, two mono amps and one 4 channel amp.

And finally if im talking a bunch of nonsense and my current setup is fine please feel free to enlighten me!

I'm not sure how to bypass the amplifier, but it is located behind the glove box. There are two harnesses that connect it to the radio. The bottom harness is removed by squeezing the ears and pulling off. The upper harness' release is on the rear facing side and is more difficult to operate. I used a small box-end wrench to take off the mounting bracket, then you can pull the amplifier out and turn it to see the clip.

It is there as a "pass through". This comes in handy if your deck only has one set of RCA outputs. It enables you to "daisy chain" multiple amps together. You would run the RCA cables from the deck to amp #1's input, then use a another cable from the output on amp #1 to the input on amp #2.

With wheel rotating, tighten adjusting nut to 17---25 ft. lbs. Back off adjusting nut 1-2 turn and retighten nut to 10---15 inch lbs

first you have to buy a amp hookup kit. then the long red wire in the amp kit you take the end with the fuse on it and hook it up to the battery. then you have to drill a hole in your. firewall and run the wire to the amp in the trunk of your car. then you take the big black wire and ground it to anything metal on ur car. make sure it is tight. then you take the aux cable and hook them into the back of the stereo and run the to the left or right input on the amp. Make sure that the power wire and aux cable are on opposite sides of the vehicle for less distortion and interference.then you take speaker wire and hook it up to the rear output of the amp and run it to your speaker. then you take another speaker wire and run it from the front output and run it to your rear factory speakers on the high input level. and you should be jammin down the road then.

Someone can get Eminence Speakers from the official website of Eminence at their online store, or at your local or chain music store such as Guitar Center.

Front Speakers6 1/2" DoorsLeft Front (+)Tan Left Front (-)Gray Right Front (+)Light Green Right Front (-)Dark Green Rear Speakers6 1/2" Rear DoorsLeft Rear (+)Brown Left Rear (-)Yellow Right Rear (+)Dark Blue Right Rear (-)Light Blue

hope this helps

it depends what your looking for, word has been going around that the new kicker 18 solo X is the loudest with 5000watt RMS to 10000 RMS, defs like the Hifonics subs RE and the Steve Meade subs. brand new 2010!

since u have two I would say 400 or 500 rms apm

Why should an amplifier think it is better to have a heavier load? Use the 8 ohm speaker. If your amp has a 4-ohm output you can strap a pair of 8-ohm speakers in parallel across it to match impedances. When impedance is matched to the amp, maximum power transfer happens. A mismatch doesn't let maximum power get transferred. The sound of speakers that are matched in impedance with the amp will be the same as the sound of mismatched speakers at low power. At high power (high volume), you can end up with some problems.

Talk to your local audio guy and get up to speed. Take a couple of cold drinks into the store when things are not busy, hook up the audio person with a beverage, and then open your ears and pay attention. You'll learn a lot.

The loudest subwoofer ive heard with my experience is a kicker l7 18 inch or an audio bahn black label competetion 18. but for a regular car stereo nothings better then an old fashion slo barics or a mtx sledgehammer.

here how to do it:-

turn yur amplifier and you can see 4 output ports two black and two reds

what you have to do is called "bridging" .you have to join the two black ones( dont join the red ones)

then add your speakers as usual as you did..(two in black and two in red)

if there is a fluctuation in sound or your amplifier get heated(in rare cases) seperate the joint between black ones

if this doesnt work for you then go to some narby electronic shop and tell him to replace the IC of your amplifier with some powerful one like STK or DOUBLE STR..

and last thing if you want a powerful sound try some custom speakers.

if your amplifier is powerful and you add your TV speakers there no use..

Well if you got any old "RCA" cables what i would do is cut the end off of one and wire it to the back speakers and then you plug them in to the amp and then hook up the power supply for your amp and then connect your subs and that should work???

NOTE: THE ABOVE SOLUTION WILL NOT WORK AND WILL DAMAGE YOUR AMP!!!

A typical Head Unit will push between 10 and 50 watts to each speaker, while the RCA inputs on your Amplifier will only take about 3.5 watts. In Stereo World, this is called "Input Voltage." You need a device that will lower the amount of power coming out of your Head Unit, so that your amplifier can receive an acceptable amount of incoming signal. In short, DOING THE ABOVE WILL ABSOLUTELY FRY YOUR AMP.

What you are looking for, friend, is commonly called a "Knockdown," or a "Step-Down-Converter."

This is a device that wires directly to your Head Unit IN PLACE OF a speaker (READ: you have to sacrifice a speaker chanell to do this!), and lowers the speaker signal from the head unit to "Input Voltage" level, so as not to fry your amp (hence the term "Knockdown"). This unit will be about 3"x3"x6" and will have RCA outputs on the back of it to hook up to your amp. Find one here:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/STEREO-CONVERTER-FITTING-AMPLIFIER-VEHICLE/dp/B0029VQRLY

PS: Any Mom and Pop Stereo Shop should be familiar with this item, and should have some in stock, they are very commonly used in your situation, and are not new to the industry.

THE SERVICE MANUAL NO RRV 1477

fOR MORE DETAILS "jbn907@gmail.com"

5x7

depends on the peak and the ohm..your speakers could be blown also.