Chevy Astro

If there are two arrow buttons, one up and one down, those are probably the buttons to set the clock. If you look very closely (shine a flashlight on them if necessary) you will see "hr" and "min" inscribed in tiny letters above the buttons. With the radio turned off, hold down the "hr" button until the hour is correct. Repeat with the "min" button.

This works great. If you have a work van like me you will need to blow off the dust to find the "hr" and "min" buttons.

If you are talking about the Pan Gasket, here is what you do. Pick up a Transmission Filter Kit from NAPA, Autzone etc along with 6 quarts of Trans Fluid. The Filter kit comes with a new filter and a gasket. Remove the pan bolts, have a larget catch pan to catch the fluid, because there is no drain plug. Once the pan is dropped replace the filter and re-install the pan with the new gasket. Put 3-4 quarts of fluid back in transmission through the dip stick in the engine compartment "before you start the engine". Start the engine and let it idle and the trans fluid get warm. Add fluid until you reach the full mark for hot fluid. Be careful not to get to much because there is no way to drain it except by dropping the pan again.

The timing is computer controlled and there is NO need to fool with the timing as long as you have not moved or touched the distributor. It requires an OBDII engine scanner to adjust the timing.

take to flat heads and pry the top of the door above the handle on the in side lower your belt on to the handle and pull to the back seat

There are two probable causes. Assuming you are talking about a car fan, the screeching can come from a mis-alignment of the fan withing the cowl or shroud that conducts air to and from the fan. If you are talking about a home HVAC unit, the screeching probably comes from a slipping drive belt (or a tired hamster).

Luxury sport and Luxury touring, sport is nice all the bells and whistle usually no leather or wood grain dash, but the touring has all the bells and whistles plus leather etc.

bad solder grounds on box on fire wall where wipers are powered did 2 of them

Should be about 60psi running, should hold more than 50 with the engine off.

This should help: http://g35driver.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-163319.html

In the past on my 89 and 99 Astros. When this happens the small vacuum line that runs from the front of the Driver Side Valve Cover to the HVA System on the Passenger side has been broken. This line runs across the front of the engine and becomes brittle from the heat and can crack or break in two. Best results are to replace the vacuum line instead of splicing it.

That happened to me once on a 1999 Astro Van... I had the battery replaced and the terminals were left loose. One day I started the engine just fine and when drove for about 10 feet the van just died. No electrical functions at all. Checked the cables sure enough they were loose. Never happened again.

I have a 1995 S-10 Blazer and a 1986 Astro. They both do this especially when using the turn signals. It's worse in warm weather. We had the Blazer's control wand changed at the dealership twice to fix it. I assume its a design problem. There's just to much jammed into the area and too much power and it acts like it jumps circuits the way my old VW Beetle would. Honk the horn and the wipers would cycle.

I have an 86 astro van and have my steering wheel off. I used a puller to get it off which was hard to get it in there unless you have long bolts. I got the black plastic cover off by turning (mind you I broke a tiny bit of the clip which has 3 slots holding it in) the cover and pulling it off. Then got to the switches (left right turn 4 way) took the 4 way stem off and now I am stuck here lol. I can't get past the steel dial. I am afraid to break it which is the horn and steering lock gear.

Read my answer for the 1985 380se with the same problem.

You need to check the vacuum lines for the a/c system for leaks, breaks and loose ones first.......

Just below and between #3 and #5 spark plugs on drivers side of block. can be easily reached after tunnel is taken off.

You have to take it into a dealer so that they can run a diagnostic on it and pull the security code. They will charge you up to $100 just to do it. I went to 2 different dealerships and both quoted me $105 just to reset the code on my own stereo. My car battery died on me and as part of GMs anti theft system you can only get your stereo working again by plugging in a code. I think it is ridiculous that I was never provided with the security code to my own car stereo just in case I ever had to reset it. Instead I now have to pay $105 dollars just to reset my own car stereo that I am not trying to steal!!! I called Chevy and they told me this was the only way I could resolve the problem. You should just be able to take it to a dealership and they should reset it for you as a courtesy service instead of charging their own customers $105. This is only part of the reason while I will never buy GM again. This is the second peice of crap GM vehicle I've owned and they both sucked. Poor customer service, cheap, poorly put together cars. It's no wonder why the Big 3 are going under. I hope the government doesn't bail them out. They need to fix their own problems first before they are given money. BUY JAPANESE!!!!

the code is different for every vehicle, the garage that sold the car from new will have it, or you can get it recoded thruogh a dealer

1991 CHEVY ASTRO VAN, YOU WILL MOST LIKELY HAVE TO REMOVE THE BATTERY. THE HEADLIGHT IS ACTUALLY JUST A SMALL HALOGEN BULB THAT SCREWS INTO THE REAR OF THE HEAD LAMP. THERE IS A ROUND PLASTIC RING THAT YOU'LL TURN 1/4 TURN AND PULL OFF THE CONNECTOR, THEN THE CONNECTOR ITSELF TURNS 1/4 THEN IT AND THE BULB COME OUT TOGETHER. SEPERATE THE BULB HOLDER FROM THE CONNECTOR, AND INSTALL THE NEW ONE. SAVE THE ROUND PLASTIC RING, YOUR NEW BULB WON'T COME WITH ONE. HAPPY MOTORING

Before anything you have to remove negative battery cable to avoid to get a shok from that. You will have to release the bolts to replace the starter.

Go to this web page and read this article: http://www.rsgear.com/articles/2004_10.pdf this should answer your question. Your van has the New Venture 136 transfer case. I have the same problem. This info is important. for all Astro/Safari AWD owners.

Replace the latching part of seatbelt (not the piece on the strap, the piece bolted onto the side of the seat). That usually does it for GM's. You could also pull the fuse labeled "Chime" (or whatever it says).

the distributor cap and rotor are under the center housing in the vehicle. you have to remove the console containing the radio. you will see to plastic covers that are round, remove them with a screw driver, they pop out. remove the screws. then at the bottom of that console there are two 13 mm nuts that have to be removed...at the top of the housing there are two 15mm hex screws that have to be loosened....remove cover.
now the engine is acessable. make sure you use a ac delco cap and rotor. this is a cross fire cap .......if you use aftermarket it will not work.....to much work not to be sure.

good luck

Start by checking the "Motor encoder unit" on the all wheel drive system.

Most likely your problem is just the switch itself that controls the speed of the fan or a fuse. These are the easiest and cheapest things to check first. You can get the swithc at a local parts store or from a GM dealer. If that doesn't work check for loose of broken wires. It all that fails replace the blower motor. Check the fuse first.

To the left of the water inlet housing (thermostat housing) on the intake manifold