I have antifreeze in my oil on a 94 Chevy beretta?
Let me guess... You have the 3100 V6, right? A verycommon problem on these engines is premature lower intake manifold gasket cracking. This will usually cause coolant to seep out and collect along the top of the transmission housing. In severe cases, the gasket cracks all the way through, and coolant mixes into the oil. Is there white smoke coming out the tail pipe? If so, you could have a bad head gasket instead, which can mix coolant and oil as well. Either way, you're looking at anywhere from $500-900 for a shop to replace the gaskets. If you have experience taking engines apart, you can do it yourself in one afternoon for about $150 for gaskets and sealant from the local parts store.
Where is the ECM ignition fuse on a 1988 Chevy Beretta GT?
Your ECM should be located on the passenger side of the car. remove the glove box and it should be on the outide wall. I am not sure that there is an acual fuse for this. but that is where the ECM is located. i hope that this is helpful.
Where is the fuse box on a 1994 Chevrolet Beretta?
To the left of the steering wheel where the door meets the car.
How do you change the oil pump on a 92 Chevy Beretta?
Some emgines have the oil pump in the fromt cover. Gat a manual on your car from a parts store or from AUTOREPAIR2000.COM
Is there a fuse box in the engine bay of a Chevy Beretta or Corsica?
No. All Berettas/Corsicas have the fuse panel located on the left side of the dashboard. It is visible by opening the driver's door. On certain models, there may be 1 or 2 inline fuses located under the dashboard. The fuse chart on the panel cover should specify what they are, if applicable.
The lower line that is toward the front of the car.
You need to do a complete cooling system service. First clean the outside fins on the readitor to remove any bugs or debris. Now drain all coolant from the system. next you need to flush the system. Be very careful when using a garden hose to flush your cooling system. A typical home outdoor faucet will produce between 40 and 50 psi of water pressure. Modern cooling systems are designed to operate at 22 psi or less (usually indicated on the top of your radiator cap). That said, you do NOT want to turn the faucet on full blast. A steady, constant stream of water will do a satisfactory cleaning job in a short period of time, without the need to over pressurize the system. Doing so may damage otherwise fine gaskets. In any case, splice a flushing kit into the heater hose that runs from the fire wall to the top of the engine. The flushing kit is simply a plastic "T" fitting that allows you to connect a garden hose. The kit is relatively inexpensive and should come with the fitting, a cap, and the clamps necessary to permanently install the kit. Remove the radiator cap and turn the faucet on. Continue flushing until the water that pours from the radiator is clean. When you are finished, disconnect the garden hose and install the cap. Drain the radiator once again. Do not run the vehicle while flushing the system. Even though this would likely do a better job, the cold tap water running from your home may cause aluminum engine components to warp as the engine heats up. Replace the thermostat as yours is problably stuck open. You'll find the thermostat located where the upper radiator hose meets the engine; the thermostat housing. Remove the thermostat housing and install the new thermostat and gasket with the spring towards the engine. Reinstall the housing. The general rule of thumb for mixing antifreeze with water is 50/50. This applies to most climates and virtually every type of concentrated antifreeze. In very cold climates, a higher ratio may be desired. Using any water suitable for drinking is acceptable; however, distilled water is a better choice. Distilled water does not contain any minerals, which can leave deposits in the cooling system. Lastly, antifreeze and water do not need to be mixed in separate containers before adding to the system, nor should they. Since you've used water to flush the cooling system, there will be a considerable amount of water remaining when you begin. This means you will need to add a higher proportion of antifreeze to reach the desired coolant mixture. There is no effective scientific method of doing this, except to check the mixture with an antifreeze tester after it has been given time to blend, and adjust accordingly. Fill the radiator and reservoir and start the engine. As the engine runs, coolant will begin to circulate and the level will fluctuate. Continue adding coolant to keep the radiator near full until the engine reaches operating temperature. Rather than fill it right to the top, leave a little space in the filler neck. Air, trapped inside the system, will work its way out and can splash the now-hot coolant out. Turn the car's interior heater on. Shortly after the engine reaches operating temperature, the thermostat will open. When this happens, you'll notice a sudden drop in the level of coolant in the radiator as the system takes new coolant in. This may happen a number of times, until the system is completely full and free of air pockets. It is sometimes difficult to remove all the air trapped in a system; it simply takes time. One way is to open bleeder valves if equipped and also to jack the front of the car up, thus getting the filler hole as high as possible. Most antifreeze falls in two categories: Regular and Long-Life. Your vehicle owner's manual will specify a particular type of coolant. Regular antifreeze is green in color, while long-life antifreeze is orange or pink. Long-life antifreeze must be used in vehicles that are designed for it. In addition, check all hoses while servicing the system. Replace any suspect hose at this time. A cracked or very soft hose need replacing.
Make sure your coolant is FULL, it will stop reading if your coolant is low and the low coolant light doesn't always work. My radiator was full and i took the thermoustat off to find the block hlaf empty on my 91. Paco
How many bolts are there between the engine and the transmission on a 1995 Chevy Beretta?
i believe theres 6 but theres one that's hard as hell to find, even when you have them all out you better get someone to help you pull them apart
-berettaspeed15
How do you replace turn signal flasher on a 92 Chevy Beretta?
This procedure is needlessly difficult--another reason for you to write a love letter to General Motors. You will need a small ratchet or socket-driver (don't remember the size, sorry, but it's metric and quite small), a flat-head screwdriver, a flashlight and an inspection mirror.
You'll also need a new flasher can, of course. The original is a Wagner 323. Although a Blazer International FL 552/536 Variable Load Thermal Flasher will work fine, I recommend against this particular unit because it is virtually silent, and you will not be able to hear the turn signal when it's on. While replacement in a NORMAL car would be as simple as opening the fuse box and yanking it out, the Beretta/Corsica is NOT a normal car, and so you'll have to either live with silent signals (like me) or go to all the trouble I'm about to detail and hope that the next replacement is loud enough. Some stores carry extra-loud flashers--if you see one, use it. I always found the signals in this car to be a bit too quiet anyway.
You have to remove the bottom plastic cover beneath the dashboard on the driver's side. Sliding the driver's seat back, you will see a color-matched panel secured with three easy-to-reach Philips head screws. This is NOT the panel you need to remove.
The panel you have to remove is accessible only when you get on your back on the floor in front of the driver's seat. You will see a black plastic panel secured with three bolt-head screws at the top, and one small nut down beside the accelerator pedal. Remove those three screws and that one nut.
Then wrestle that black panel out. It will need to come out toward the seat, because there is a slender horizontal post beside the brake pedal that the panel must slide along. Be careful: one of the interior lights is also secured to this panel, and you'll need to remove it before you can clear the panel from the work area. Just turn the light assembly 90 degrees counter-clockwise, and it'll come right out.
Once you've got that panel out of the way, you need to get back on your back again and look up. There is a so-called "convenience panel" mounted to a stamped steel dashboard frame. It is situated such that it faces the front of the car, so it's going to be difficult to see: with your head under the dash, you have to look back towards the rear of the car to see it. Using the flashlight and inspection mirror, you will see that this inconveniently-located "convenience panel" is home to the electronic door-reminder chime, several relays, and a flasher can. Don't get your hopes up, this isn't the flasher can you're looking for--this visible and somewhat-accessible flasher is for the hazard lights or "four-ways," NOT the turn signals. If you want to be sure about that, reach up onto the top of the steering column and switch the hazard lights on. You'll be able to feel this flasher can as it ticks.
The turn signal flasher is secured to this "convenience panel" using a metal clip. The clip will be visible, but the flasher is actually on the BACK of the "convenience panel." Using a screwdriver, push the clip upwards until it's no longer attached to the "convenience panel." The flasher can is now hanging by its wires, and can easily be grasped. It'll be inserted into its connector pretty tightly, so you'll want to use the flat head screwdriver to separate the flasher can from its home. Replace it with the new can. When you do that, you'll just have to pry the retaining clip off the old flasher can, put it on the new one, and secure the newly-installed flasher can to that stupidly-named "convenience panel" so it doesn't flop around and possibly cause trouble later.
Now just put everything back the way it was. One thing to note: there are two studs protruding from the firewall. You'll want to make sure the black plastic panel is put into place such that it rests atop these studs. Otherwise it'll begin to droop down and deform over time.
Now wasn't that stupidly difficult?
What do the three arrows on the Beretta Logo mean?
"Dare In Brocca" or "hit the target."
Tony, TheWildInjun
I assume that the cooling system doesn't leak and holds the factory pressure. (Water boils at higher temps under pressure). Also that the water pump belt has been checked. This requires you to answer a few questions for yourself. When the engine is hot and running, does the cooling fan work? Your car has an electric fan behind the radiator. If it also has A/C, turn on the A/C and look at the fan to see if it's running. I would check the fuse and also the fan relay if it isn't.
Also, you don't say which engine you have, but the 3100 V6 is notorious for developing air pockets in the water jacket if the cooling system is opened (which you would have done when replacing the pump). This will keep the coolant from flowing through the radiator and will cause overheating. There is a small brass bleeder valve on top of the bypass tube that sticks out the top of the water pump housing on this engine - open it slightly by loosening the top "bolt" a couple turns with the engine running (don't remove it, and be careful of the moving belt!); if you don't get a little trickle of coolant out, there's air trapped in your cooling system. With the engine still running, leave the valve open and add coolant until a steady trickle does come out through the valve (not just a little foam). Then close the valve and add enough additional coolant to bring the bottle up to the full line. Work quickly, the engine will get hot fast with the pressure cap off. Good luck.
Why does the fan assembly not work on 2003 Chevy impala?
Check to see if you are getting power to fan motor turn on A/C or defroster If you are getting power to fan - then fan is defective If not check fuse Could be temperature sending unit in radiator
What size fuel tank does a 91 Chevy beretta have?
My 95 Berretta has a 15 Gal. tank so im guessing if it is not that its something close. Edit by Loosenut: It is 15.3, but you can fit 16.8 up to the rim. By packing any gas tank to "the Rim" your are flooding the charcoal cannister with fuel which leads to an emmission code and an expensive repair.
Where is the radiator cap on a 94 Chevy beretta?
It doesn't have one. If you wanna add more coolant you will have to do it with from your reservoir.
How do you replace outside door handles on a 1995 Chevy Beretta?
When you take the old one off you will see how the new one goes on. It's very simple & I've done it! Good Luck!
How do you install brake master cylinder Chevy beretta 1993?
The 92-96 Beretta/Corsica brake master cylinder is best removed with the ABS pumps and reservoir still attached. First, disconnect the 4 brake lines going to the top of the unit using a flare wrench. Now remove the 2 bolts securing the brake master cylinder to the brake booster. The whole assembly will come right out. Easy!
Will a V8 engine fit in a Chevy Beretta?
In one weekend by a backyard mechanic or small shop ... NO.
With a lot of time/money and chopping the engine bay down to nothing ... YES.
Should the radiator fan come on when you cut the ac on?
Yes, when the a/c is used the engine works harder which rises the temp of the engine then turn the fans on to cool the radiator.
What would cause radiator coolant to leak out through exhaust pipe?
A cracked engine block? Do I win the trip to Hawaii? Actually, you may have some condensation dripping out of the tailpipe, which is perfectly normal for older cars or vehicles in colder climates. Heat from running the vehicle the night before builds up in the exaust pipes, and is transformed into condensation when it cools in colder climates, then when you start it up, the condensation drips out the tail pipe. That is, unless it's more than dripping, and its actually "flowing" out the pipe, and it's green. Then, your engine either ate the Hulk, and it's letting him out a little at a time or your engine block is severly cracked. Take you car to a mechanic that has a compression chamber "checker thingie" and find out what your compression SHOULD BE. If it's not near the number you need, you may have a blown head gasket, a cracked block, or a freeze plug or shot, where the water is dripping out and into a gaping hole in your exaust. Now do I win the trip to Hawaii?
DRL module
You may have a vacuum leak and it might be the vacumm booster on your brakes. That is the large canister behind the master cyl. What year is it and does it have anti lock brakes?