Chevy Beretta

your cooling fan thermostat is worn out. it is a thermister, which means it varies voltage depending on temperature. the reason it will come on when the air conditioning is on is because the air conditioning circuit contains a high pressure switch on the high pressure side of the air conditioning system which is normally open, meaning it doesn't complete the circuit until high discharge pressure from the condensor closes the contacts in the switch, thus completing the circuit, which sends power to the cooling fans, thus causing them or it to come on and try to "cool" the air flowing through condensor. check with your local auto parts store for availability. ---JT---

The most common problem would be the coolant temperature sensor in the block (next to the thermostat housing). Next would be the fan relay, located on the passenger side firewall in the engine bay. Finally, a bad fan motor. In that order.

Tire out of balance or a bent wheel. Also check the motor mounts; this model had problems with them.

THe head gasket should not effect the timing chain. The coolant filling into the cylinders may have a similar effect. If the engine is an overhead cam engine there is no reason to replace the head gasket without replacing the timing chain though. Except for cost or if the timing set has recently been replaced. If the vehicle has dex-cool which is the coolant that is RED IN COLOR THE ENGINE MAY BE RUINED due to corosion caused by the RED coolant. If the coolant is green don't worry too much.

how to change third or center brake light on Chevy beretta 95

it is mounted on the starter.

IT COULD BE A WORN ENGINE MOUNT. TO BE SURE, PUT YOU CAR IN GEAR PRESS THE BRAKE APPLY THE E-BRAKE AND ACCELERATE THE CAR IF YOU FEEL THE SAME SHAKING IS YOUR ENGINE MOUNTS. (BE Careful)

A 1994 Chevrolet Beretta with the 2.2 or the 3.1 engine takes a 105 amp alternator.

Pop the hood and check on the firewall, just between the wipers.

You will see a group of relays. The far right one is the Fuel Pump Fuse, then some relays are next to it.

If the fuel pump isn't turning on, use a small flat head screw driver or your finger nail to pop the clamp on the far right (driver side) connection, the wire "should" be orange.

Then just pull down, you'll see a 20A fuse there.

Hope that helps.

can someone give me a diagram of a fuse box location for a 1993 Chevy beretta

A 1995 Beretta front brake caliper is not held on by a Torx bolt. Use a 3/8" Hex key.

Have vehicle scanned t osee if any codes present--most auto parts will do this free

You can not as the tank filler neck has a check valve in case of rollover to prevent gasoline from coming out of the tank.

I don't know what kind of knowledge you have about cars so please excuse me if it seems like I am going too slow for you. Start by purchasing the right spark plugs and wire set at your local auto parts store. You will probably have a selection to choose from. Such as basic get you by plugs & wires or performance plugs & wires. The choice is yours and it depends on what you are really looking to do. Sorry, first you need to find out what kind of engine you have. Is it a 6 cylinder or a 4 cylinder? The basic engine types for that year were as follows... 2.2l 4-cylinder, 2.3l quad four, 3.1l V-6. If you are unsure what type of engine your vin # located on the drivers side of the windshield looking into the car. This # will tell the autoparts store which one. Find each wire going to the spark plugs and make sure that u will be able to reach all of them comfartably. It is possible that in the V-6 it may be very difficult to reach the two towards the firewall. You may have too remove other components. Spark plug socket and wrench along with a gap gauge will be needed. Personally I go one at a time when replacing them. Take the wire off the spark plug then vacuum the are so that no loose particles are there to fall into the hole when the spark plug comes out. Then unscrew the spark plug being careful not to apply too much pressure which would result in breaking the spark plug. Remember this is an older car if they look very rusty let the car cool for a few hours then spray the plugs with "P B blaster" to help loosen then. I actually broke a spark plug off the other day, let me tell you it is not a pretty picture. After taking out make sure nothing falls into the spark plug hole. then save your spark plug and write down which position you pulled it out of. Later you can take it to an autozone, or VIP and see if they can tell you things about your engine.* Spark plugs have to be gapped corretly so do this now. 2.2L 0.035 inch 3.1L = 0.045 inch those are the correct gaps. each spark plug needs to be done, sorry they do not come pregapped even though it looks like they do. Spark plugs are sometimes gapped too much or too little. This is a very important step most people leave out. But your cars engeine was designed to run a particular way. So install the spark plug NEVER over tighten the plug it could break. Ussually you can put them in by finger then tighten with a wrench until snug. Follow the wire to the the other end. Make sure to pull off only that wire. Match up the lentgh of this wire to the new wires you purchased. Choose the one that best suits and install it in the empty position. Rrepeat these steps until all have been replaced. * Your spark plugs can tell you what is goig on in your engine. Look at them they should have a brown to grayish tan color with a slight electrode waer to them. If they are oilly then you have a leak from the piston rings or possibly a worn vavle guide. if it is misshaped then there is possibly something in that cylinder. if they are white your engine may be running too hot. Those are some of the common problems with spark plugs.

GOOD LUCK! wolverine. sorry it is so long.

When rolling the motor, unbolt the 3 bolts from the motor block. Then roll the motor ahead by hand and put two of the 3 bolts back in to the holes lined up when it rolled forward and it will hold the motor in place. Hope that helps you.

Hey i know where your comming from because i just fixed that problem on mine.It was my coils they where cracked.Dose yours idle like she is miss firing? if so this is your problem and this might still be your problem....Hope this helps..

You have to find the source of the leak. Is the door leaking somewhere, probably at the bottom? The area around the sunroof is also prone to leaking.

If there is a lot of water on the floor, you should take out the mats and rugs before they get moldy. This will also make it easier to find the leak.

One technique it to have someone sit inside and observe while you spray water from a hose on the car, around the door, around the sunroof, etc.

Open the hood check where the battery goes look under the brake servo is a water drain clean it when is raining it fills with water and them goes inside.

Very awkward and messy. Start by removing the panel under the dash on the passenger side. You will need a regular Phillips screwdriver and a snubby 2-3" Phillips later. Also get a 1/4" socket set. First thing, go under the car and remove the heater hoses from the firewall and twist out the drin spiggot. Then go back inside the car. The heater core sits under the radio. Under the core is a tray used to catch the leaking antifreeze and drain it out the firewall. You need to remove this tray. It has 6-8 screws holding it. Once the screws are out it is tricking removing it with the center console in, but it can be done-twist and bend. Then remove the screws holding the core in place and pull out the heater core. One note on the replacement-got mine from Oreilly's for $20-the two lines coming out of the heater core swivel to line up with the holes through the firewall. If you don't swivel them it will never seem to fit. Then reverse the above order, fill up the fluid, bleed the air off and away you go. Took me about 3 hours total in a parking lot. Ruined a shirt, but got it done. You will also cuss being upside down under the dash.

check location of gas line, heat may be causeing vapor lock,

fuelpump going bad,

Chilton's "General Motors - Corcia/Beretta 1988-96 Repair Manual, page 7-14" HOWEVER...Although it appears to be a single assembly, (Master - rigid hose - Slave) I was able to purchase just Master cylinder (1988) the slave cyl has bleeder valve on it. 1990 - 96 do not, and a rather tedious bleeding process is described. (pg. 7-16) any questions contact me. Can you put e-mail address in here ? Kris krisnelson40@hotmail.com

On all V6s, it is located on the passenger side of the engine, towards the front. There is a smooth, shiny metal pulley over the top of it. To remove/replace it, you will need to loosen the tension on the belt by raising the belt tensioner pulley, located on the bottom directly below the alternator. Once loose, slip the belt up over the alternator pulley, and lower the tensioner. Remove the 4 bolts holding the pulley onto the water pump. To prevent the pulley from turning, slip a large flathead screwdriver (or tire iron) into the hole in the motor mount directly above the water pump pulley. This will bind against the bolts as you make your way around. Be sure to loosen all bolts first before completely removing them. Once they're all loose, you can remove them by hand, and slip the pulley off the water pump. There are 5 small bolts holding the water pump to the engine. They are spaced around the outside ccircumference of the water pump. Once all 5 are removed, the water pump should come out. If not, tap on it lightly with a rubber mallet. Sometimes the gasket sealent likes to stick. Once removed, be sure to scrape all traces of the old gasket material, and clean the surface with acetone. Installation is the reverse or removal. Check for lost coolant, and add more if needed to the proper level. Start the engine and allow it to reach opearting temperature. Check for leaks. None? You're done!

The key.

I had this same problem when I first got my 94 beretta. To switch from your regular lights to brights, you have to pull the turning signal lever towards you to switch between normal and brights.

you need to get a tool referred to as a "syrpentene belt wrench" you can rent them from most auto zones, or pick one up for about 25 bucks.

Go to autozone.com and click repair info on the left side of the page. Put in the details for your car, then over on the left click "Vehicle Repair Guides." Find the section you're looking for and it'll show you in there.

These vehicles use the 4T60-E transmission.