Chrysler 300 Series

yo you can use any oil. 5W-30 or 10W-30. I pearsonaly prefer to use full synthetic oil or synthetic blend(hard to find). Synthetic shall give you more power and your engine will run smoother.

http://www.chrysler.com/en/owners/manuals/

This is great and it's FREE!

Yes

The computer that controls the transmission relies on these to decide when to shift.

Look in the owners manual, but it recommends 10w-30, however with newer synthetics you can use different viscosities...

If you are just dropping the pan and replacing the filter, it will be approx. 3.5 - 4.0 liters.

Brake System Warning (check your brake fluid, the parking brake, etc...)

This knock sensor contains a phezioelectric material.

It would most likely be the wear tabs on your brake pads.Replace your pads

that makes sense,then i thought,a leak in the vacuum booster-just in front of driver side -in engine compartment-a rod comes into the vehicle and connects to brake. these can make a sound of rushing air-maybe whistle..so,there is a 2nd possible.

U can use Dextron III atf fluid in the hydraulic side and in the ayc clutch bath side

yes there is- its called walking back to the fuel door and opening it like any other car.

Some newer models do still use the old "flasher relay" many of us remember from years gone by. However, most Chrysler models have turned this duty over to the computer...specifically, the Body Control Module. Is there a specific problem you're having?

The fuse box on the driver side of the dash. Open the door and pull the cover off. The panel has the information on the inside of how it's laid out.

Chances are your, or the previous owner, or someone who has driven your vehicle, did enough neutral drops that the transmission is not wanting to grab any of the gears. Have the transmission looked at at a local shop and see what the deal is. You'll probably end up paying around $3000 for a new transmission.

i have a 07 Chrysler 300 touring and i have a light on the dash that's on but i don't know what it means its yellow on the lower left side it kind of looks like a bowl with jagged bottom and a exclamation point in the middle kind of hard to explain

EDIT: The light you are referring to, the "bowl with a jagged bottom with an exclamation point" is your warning light about the inflation of your tires. It is warning you that you have lower or less than recommended amounts of air in the tires. Fill them to factory spec and the light should go out.

many will give a different answer but for early rotary engines - mineral oil is best. depending on your local climate will determine how viscous the oil should be. The first number is the viscosity when the oil is cold, the second number is the oil is at operating temperature. The Higher the number the thinker ther oil. 10w-30 or 10w-40 will suffice in most temperate climates in climates that regularly see minus dgrees then a lower viscosity oil must be used - like a 5w-10 for example. in really arid climates you may need an oil that is more viscous like 20w-50 for example. rotary's are very particular about their oil so if you want to be look after the engine then there are racing oils you can use that will offer more protection. for example im told that Purple Royal make very good oil. they are based in the UK. Answer The reason mineral oil is deemed better is the opinion that synthetic oil will not burn cleanly in the combustion chamber. There are people who use synthetic and have no problems. Personally I use 5W-30 amsoil synthetic, oil metering pump disabled and premixed fuel.

No, it is a mechanical release not electrical.

Chime

Replace the whole sway bar link.

It is red, and looks like most other types of trans fluid

Determine where leaks originates. Cooling line? Seal?

timing marks are , marks on camshaft sprocket, an on crankshaft sprocket'.

Use your key to unlock the door and then pull the hood release.

There is an upstream and downstream O2 sensor (bank1 and bank2). Upstream is located close to the engine bay in FRONT of the cat converter, and 2 is located behind the converter.

I have a 2001 300m. You have to remove the front passenger wheel. There should be a compartment with a few screws. REMOVE these screws and and screws securing battery(do this when u pop the hood) u might need an extension neck for a socket wrench to reach screws. Then just slide the battery out and replace. Reverse procedure to install. About 15 minutes changing time.

It is at the top off the column, under the steering wheel.