Chrysler Cirrus

No it requires a DRB III.

Any wiring harness that passes through the firewall in a Cirrus will use a grommet. If you are adding a wire, snake the wire with the harness bundle to pass through the firewall.

The most common reason for a 1996 Chrysler Cirrus odometer and RPM gauge to stop working is a fuse. If the fuse is removed from the dash and replaced, often times the odometer and RPM gauge will begin working.

You can get to it pretty easily if you remove the passenger side fog lamp assembly (two screws). You might also want to remove the horn assembly (attaches to the frame with a single screw). Once these are out of the way, you can easily reach the petcock with a small pair of pliers or your fingers. If you're careful, it will come out easily - but remember, it's a plastic part so don't be too rough on it.

It is located under the hood (driver's side) just beside the air filter housing. The cover indicates "fuse panel"

There's also one on the side of the drivers side dash accessible only with the door open.

open the drivers door and there at the end of the dash is the pannels door..it pops out and exposes all the box with the fuses...real easy to get to..thx

No, a Chrysler Cirrus does not. The fuel system is computer controlled with relays.

You hook the cables to the jump start posts under the hood on the driver side.

The hydraulic lifters on a 1998 Chrysler Cirrus are not adjustable.

It is inside the fuel tank. Tank has to be lowered to access.

Not enough transmission oil, too much transmission oil, bad transmission oil, a clogged breather... all are possibilities.

It does not have one.

1. take tire off .remove calipher using star tool 2.push pads out of calipher 3.using c clamp push piston back in until flush 4.place new pads in place 5.put calipher back on rotor 6. line up metal sleeve with bolt if unable to do so sleeve may be slightly bent than replace and that might solve the problem

stat is located on drivers side of eginr compartment follow upper hose remove if engine is cold you will need 12 mm swilvel scocket &long extension remove two bolts to remove housing which stat in.clean surface on both and install.

I am pretty sure that it is computer controlled. There is probably an input to the computer that is out of whack. There may be a code stored it the computer that may elude to the problem. If an input like a mass air flow sensor or crankshaft sensor is going bad, it will report false data to the ECM and it will make an incorrect adjustment that will flood or starve the fuel/air mixture causing a stall.

easier, try to clean or maybe change the IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE, located near the throttle body, where the air intake is, it's not difficult, it's attached with 2 bolts, then it's like a pintle with one spring, check the spring shape and replace the unit with a new one, this valve controls the air flow to your engine and if it goes bad , the RPMS are likely to be low and also stalling could occur right away when you start the engine or suddenly too

This part is located in the electrical section of the Chilton manual 20320 page 2-21. According to Chilton "I'll punch this in verbatim" - "OIL PRESSURE SENDING UNIT/SWITCH - On all 2.0L and 2.4L engines, the oil pressure sending unit switch is located on the engine block, below the exhaust manifold, on the firewall side. On all 2.5L engines, the oil pressure sending unit switch is located on the engine block, below the front exhaust manifold on the radiator side." UNDER the car of course!

There should be an electrical harness attached to it. Disconnect the harness (after you disconnect the battery of course) Then, you should be able to remove the sending unit with a deep well socket or a wrench. (Some people have said that removing the oil filter will give you more room.) yeah yeah gotta put in new oil then...

the pcm is located under the hood on the left hand side just left of the ecm

does the third brake light work? if not probably brake light switch but check the fuse first. if yes, there are thes really cheezey circuit boards in the tail light housings that go bad all the time. they look like plastic strips.

assuming it's a 2.5 I can tell you it's quite a chore to replace the back valve cover gasket. But, if you're patient and handy with basic tools, it can be done. First, if you don't already have it off, you need a Haynes manual or it's equivilant, which you can get at most auto parts stores or online or at your local public library. The hardest part of the job is the upper intake plenum which is right above the valve cover. Follow all the instructions in the book except the disabling of the fuel pressure. You don't have too do that step if you're only removing the upper intake. If you have a camera my advice is to take a few pictures from different angles to refer to if you need them. At least make a diagram of where everything goes back. When you get the plenum off you'll find the lower valve cover bolts are very difficult to access due to the power steering fluid supply lines so plan on trying to carefully shift them a little and use a quarter inch drive rachet cause there's not much room. Also there are two bolts in the passenger side end of cover which go in thru the top of the timing belt cover which may require the use of an end wrench to get out. You will find the old gasket, if it's like mine, cirrus with 165K, baked to a crystal-like and rock-hard substance in the groove around the cover. I tried all the suggestions I got from forums and friends about gasket removers and heat guns but had no luck with them. I finally resorted to taking one of my old straight screwdrivers and grinding it down to a size that would fit the groove without deforming it and sharpened it to a chisel edge and tapping it with a small hammer. Care must be taken to NOT deform the metal or bend the sides of the groove. Make a small hole in the gasket and then get the chisel under the material and, working slowly, remove ALL of the old material. You can try some laquer thinner to soak whatever you can't get out then take a smaller screwdriver or icepick to get in the corners. When installing the new gasket I suggest a non-hardening sealant to help insure it stays in the groove while you're reinstalling the cover. Make certain the gasket is all the way down in groove and seated firmly. This is the best time to update your plugs and wires as well. Clean every thing while you're there. And check all your wiring and hoses. It isn't an easy job but will save you much moola. Git er done. good luck.

Honestly about 150,000 miles. After that the transmission will start to stick. common problem.

A starter is located in the area where the engine and transmission are bolted together. This area is known as the transmission bellhousing area. Starters are mounted in different locations around the bellhousing. Some may be mounted near the top, so that they are accessed from under the hood, as in the case of a Ford Contour V6, but most are mounted toward the bottom, so that they are accessed from under the car. The starter is usually a cylindrical metal object possibly 6 inches (15 cm) long or so, and will be usually about 3 or 4 inches (7 to 10 cms) in diameter. It may or may not have another cylindrical object attached to it called a solenoid or relay, which will be smaller in length and diameter. There will be at least one heavy battery cable attached to the starter. There may or may not also be another small wire attached, usually to the solenoid, and there also may or may not be be a large diameter ground wire attached to one of the starter mounting bolts. The starter will also have 2 or 3 mounting bolts. Caution! If you are planning to try to replace the starter yourself, disconnect the vehicle's battery! The battery cable I mentioned earlier usually has power all the while that the battery is connected, and everything else around is a ground. So when you take the battery cable off of the starter, if you accidentally touch the loose battery cable to anything in the neighborhood, you will end up doing some unintentional welding. So disconnect the battery before starting the job.

Thermostat is located on the transmission end of the intake manifold (left hand side) It is held with 3 bolts that are not easy to get to.(along with the thermostat itself) You will need to remove the black plastic tubing that runs from the air filter to the throttle body. Good luck!

some vocational schools might offer it. or a nice shop owner might find it in his/her heart to teach at their shop. most people learn from their parents or on their own.