Chrysler LeBaron

A few things can cause this. Start with the simple and troubleshot your way to the more difficult. CHECK THE FUSES. It could be as simple as a blown fuse. If you find a blown fuse, be sure to replace it with the correct Amperage fuse. MASTER SWITCH IN OFF POSITION. Many cars come with a master switch, or child lock-out switch. This is typically found in reach of the driver, near the driver's window switch. MASTER SWITCH BAD. The master switch could be bad. Check for power to and from the switch. This step also continues on to the last posibility, a wiring problem. Since your question implies all the windows are not functioning. If all the other test prove to be OK, then it is likely a wiring problem. Checking the wiring at the master switch will shed some light on this. Good luck, and hope it's the fuse.

Duff coil..?? Duff Engine Control Unit (ECU)

The engine computer uses the coolant temperature sensor that is located close to where the upper radiator hose attaches to the engine to decide when to actuate the fan.

The engine computer uses the coolant temperature sensor that is located close to where the upper radiator hose attaches to the engine to decide when to actuate the fan.

It is the electronics that control the dash, it's either the whole unit, or something small like a loose plug, or a wire. This happened to me on a 1995 Lincoln contennital.

In the trunk. The power steering fluid reservoir should instead be filled with Mopar ATF+3 or equivalent meeting the +3 standard.

Some were

Very Carefully! I'm not sure about an '88, but on a '91 there are a couple of notches on one of the cranks and on a mounted piece of metal where they are supposed to line up. You have to take off pretty much everything, serpentine belt (if there is one), crank shaft, idler pulley, the engine mount, and probably the alternator. When you get everything taken off, get a pretty big ratchet or breaker bar and turn the crank until the marks line up. Good luck.

That is the same as the check engine light. See related questions below.

Front of engine compartment, passenger side. Has nearly sixty wires going to it along the body of the car near headlight.

that's really something you'd have to look at for proper diagnosis. make sure you're not loosing power steering fluid because that's where your steering pump is located

A front crankshaft seal or camshaft seal can also leak in the same spot.

If you lost the keys and you can prove that you are the titled owner. The Chrysler dealer can order an ignition key with the VIN number. You may have to have the door locks replaced, if the door key is different from the ignition key. If that fails, try an auto electric shop to get the locks changed, maybe even a locksmith.

Your most likely problem is your ignition module...Its a computer on the left side behind the battery....Just follow the hose from your air cleaner it will lead you right to it.

This happened with my lebaron as well, but it turned out to be the oxygen sensor was shorting out.

If this doesn't solve the problem...try replacing the ASD relay. (auto shutdown). We had that problem with ours

the convert top motor is in the trunk behind the vinyl top collector or the vinyl top shoot. you cant miss it.

A fuse box diagram for this car can be found on the inside of the panel cover of the fuse box. It can also be found in the owners manual of the car.

If one wants to use convertible top fluid on a 1992 Lebaron convertible, one should first put the fluid on a rag and begin to wipe down the top. It is important that one spread the fluid evenly on the top.

two possible causes......it could mean you have a bad brake hose or a sticking caliper

If your heater blower is blowing enough air,then look too see that you have enough antifreeze in the radiator.If the antifreeze is all the way up then check your thermostat ,it may be stuck or partially opened.

First, double check to make sure your spark plug wires are in the correct order, so that the plugs fire in the correct sequence. If those are good, it may be a crankshaft/camshaft position sensor. If they (or one) lose a signal because they are worn out, the wires are bad, or the cam/crank is out of position, it will kill a running engine and won't allow it to start. The truth is, it could be one of many problems that a certified technician can correctly diagnose. However, the two suggestions I gave, along with the information you have given, are the most common problems.

for something to move it needs force . force can be energy.force equals mass and acellaration.basically,mass needs force to move. if you want to make a self propelled toy , you either need to make a chassis or frame for the toy.then you need to add wheels because for it to be self propelled,it needs to be on an inclined plane.that way gravity can pull it down.if you want it to be a flying self propelled plane it needs to be on a very large slope,it needs to have a frame ,a body,a propeller or two,large wings,and the slope needs to have a ramp.for it to be a car it needs wheels,a chassis,and a body.it needs to be on a slope without a ramp.for a self propelled boat,you need a frame,something heavy to create momentum like a metal wheel inside one of the toys that you push and they keep on going.you need some thing to catch the waves and make the metal wheel spin.then you need something like the things on the back of old steamboats. good luck!

sounds like fuel pump relay switch or wiring problem .Your key starts fuel pump.After 2 or 3 seconds the fuel pump is then run by fuel pump relay switch Also check fuel filter .

If clogged it will cause car to die

You might also want to check to see if you vehicle has an anti theft function i have the 94 lebaron and if the anti theft is activated it starts runs for a few second and dies. i have to go to the passenger door and put in the key and turn it 4-5 times then it starts and runs.

Raise the bolt to the unlocked position, then pull the trigger while removing the bolt. That makes no sense. The Model 60 is a semiautomatic firearm, not a bolt-action. The old style Model 60 used the operating handle as a bolt hold-open. Pull the bolt about 3/4 way to the rear and push in on the bolt handle to lock it open. Pull the bolt handle back out and the bolt will be released to run forward. Newer Model 60's have a bolt release lever that extends down through the trigger guard.

The engine computer is also the voltage regulator.

You can not disable it. You can disarm it by unlocking the drivers door with the key.

I'm assuming you're referring to a 4-speed automatic car, in which case it will have a TCM. You may have luck at the dealer, I can't find the part number at the moment.

If your car is a 3-speed automatic, the transmission is hydraulically controlled, so no TCM or ECM involvement.

By saying you need to "repair" the drive belts can it be assumed that you mean you need to change them? If so, the best way to find the procedure and proper routing would be to buy a Haynes repair manual for your model from an automotive store or check your local library for a Chilton repair manual. Both contain valuable info on much more pertaining to your car. !