Chrysler LHS

Red five year, hoat type.

0.50

According to my research on the Gates timing belt website, the engine is an interference engine. The belt should be changed every 60,000 miles (100,000 km). If the belt has broke, normally a valve has been bent and a piston could be damaged. There is not enough clearance between the piston and valve to allow for them to work out of time with each other.

I have the same problem i just give the steering colomn a good hit and it comes back on sometimes it takes two or three tho.

They bushing are located under the car about 1-2' behind wheels, where the rear and front frames come together. There will be what looks like a rubber washer under a big bolt inset about an inch.

They are not welded on a 1999 LHS, there are two bolts that need to removed on the steering side I think it a 22 mm bolt. Each bolt has two metal tabs bent over top of them which need bent away from the bolts first. Once you have removed the outer tie rods, you may need a tie rod puller to remove the inner rods.

There are 2 fuse boxes in Rav4s (that's how it is in my 2002 Rav4). One is under the hood on the right hand side, the other is located behind the compartment where your left knee touches when you drive. The one that controls the cruise controlis probably located behind the compartment where your left knee touches when you drive. Onur Diker.

Yes, the oil pump could be damaged if the timing belt tensioner was damaged in the vehicle. It is a good idea to check the oil pressure to determine if the pump is working correctly.

Remove the spare tire etc. Remove the trunk carpeting. (about six screws along rear edge of trunk. two on sides. one on left side near side marker light) The whole carpet liner pulls out. Near the seat is a small acess door with 4 screws that gives access to fuel pump lines and electrical connector (and pump/top of tank)

I happen to own this particular car and have replaced the cylinder head gasket too. First tighten all bolts is a crossing pattern (like in a tire rotation) to 61 Nm (45 ft. lbs.) Second, 88 Nm (65 ft. lbs.) Third, (again) to 88 Nm (65 ft. lbs.) Fourth, with out a torque wrench, turn each bolt 1/4 in the tightening direction. Each bolt torque after 1/4 turn should be over 90 ft. lbs. If not, replace under torqued bolts.

inside of the dash, about middle of the car. The entire dash has to be removed to replace.

You must 1st take off the shroud that covers the radiator, then take out the 3 screws that hold the headlight assembly in place. Once you have the screws out you can then slide the head lamp out and unscrew the cap that holds the headlight bulb in the housing and gently pull the lamp out. Make sure you do not touch the new build with you bare hands since oil or grease on your fingers will damage the life of the new bulb.

Location for sigil start for a 95.chrysler new

Depends on what kind of battery you have but 9 times out of ten all you will need is a couple wrenches.

A Chrysler LHS does not have a fuel system reset.

i have replace the thermostat, checked the fans,filled with water and it is still overheating.

Very often, the waterpump leaks and stops working only years after it was last replaced. Coolant is probably not flowing from the engine to the radiator to be cooled.

I can't speak for that SPECIFIC car and model but on most cars with two fans, one is driven by the engine belt and runs whenever the engine is running. The other runs electrically and can turn on (usually) if the key is in the ignition. There is a relay and a controller that tells that fun if the engine needs cooling. On some cars this fan will run even if the key is not in the ignition; i.e. parked and the driver away from the vehicle. It should stop when the sensor running it decides the engine is cool enough.

Both fans are electrically driven and have two speeds. The fans operate at a lower speed until a certain temperature is reached, at which time they both switch to high speed. The two fans are always on the same setting: Off, Low or High.

the rear lights are a bit easier. You only need to pull back the carpet in the truck and loosen two butterfly bolts and the rear light assembly will come out. you then remove the individual lights by twisting the lamp a 1/4 turn and pulling it out.

For the front you need to pull the light asembly out and replace the bulb and then pop it back into place. this takes a little more time and care when pulling out.

It is under the housing where the upper radiator hose hooks to the engine.

It is under the housing where the upper radiator hose hooks to the engine.

It is not a direct fit.

remove the screws usually behind the door handle, also remove the cover tabs on the door grab on the panel and then remove the speaker grill and remove the three or four screws around the speaker not the ones holding the speaker in place.

It was as factory option.

Using the 4 step torque-turn method, tighten according to the following values:

- First All to 61 Nm (45 ft. lbs.)

- Second All to 88 Nm (65 ft. Lbs.)

- Third All (again) to 88 Nm (65 ft. lbs.)

- Fourth + 1/4 Turn. Do not use a torque wrench for this step.

NOTE: Bolt torque after 1/4 turn should be over 90 ft. Lbs. in the tightening direction. 1f

not, replace the bolt.

Im having same problems although im about to change radiator too...try changing your radiator cap? and also vacum relief valve...

fair idea but the other thing it could be as i had a 1985 corolla with similar problem and we found 2 possible problems that were both causing it. one replace top and bottom hose as they at rev close up once they are old this stops the water from traveling.

second fault possible is gunk in your radiator get a length of stocking around 15 cm long max and place that in the top hose and secure it outside of the top hose so its open and acts like a diaphragm so it catches all gunk traveling around in the rad. run the engine for around 5 minutes the stocking will work like a wind sock and catch any crap in the radiator the channels may be getting clogged from the water pump replacement i assume the water pump went in a odd way and it may have had flakes end up in the water. these flakes can clog the galleys of the rad and cause overheating at high rev or speed.

just occurred to me as well is there may be a air bubble in the water system near the thermostat and it is not opening and closing properly. check for air in the water system Toyota's had a history of doing this till around 2002

if all of that results in nothing changing then look for bubbles in the radiator water. this will show the tel tale sign of air in the rad. if not then look for water in the oil. if either then the head or head gasket is dead.

best of luck

standing in front of the car, it is in front of the engine, just between the hood latch and cam housing...plastic looking circle with a plug on it. it is in plain sight, and has two bolts holding on. standing in front of the car, it is in front of the engine, just between the hood latch and cam housing...plastic looking circle with a plug on it. it is in plain sight, and has two bolts holding on.