Clouds

You should have 2 sets of controls for the heater/ac. 1 is in the front drivers dash board and the 2nd 1 is on the ceiling just behind the front sets. the 1 up front controls the front seats and the other controls the back. you must set the temp control in the front to cool air (blue on the dial) to get cold air to the front. this is called dual climate control. you can set the front cooler or warmer then in the back or vis versa ___________________________________________________________ = Blend Door Problem = Your problem sounds like the common blend door problem on the Ford Expeditions, and Ford Explorer. The door is on a vertical axis and when it breaks, it can swing back and forth randomly giving heat or AC or nothing. The difference on acceleration is the force placed on the door swinging it one direction.

You can check the operation by fully opening the glove box, removing the actuator motor on top of the plenum box and examining the blend door axle (the actuator is under the unit on top of the hump behind the flexible black plastic cover. It is on top of the unit, behind the glove box in the 2002 F-350 though). Pictures of the common fail signature are available on the Related Links below. There are several "free" fixes that mostly are worth what you pay for them. The solution on the web site is solid and proven over hundreds of vehicles and will resolve the problem once and for all.

Is compressor starting?

Possibly the blend door which mixes hot and cold air or all hot or all cold, in the heating unit is broken. I have been quoted 800- 1000. cdn by the dealer to replace mine in my 97 explorer xlt.

This job should take 6-8 hours for a weekend warrior

Start with the ignition off. Within five seconds, switch the key on, off, on, off, on. (On is *not* start!) The "check engine" light will flash. Count the flashes Each code is a two digit code, so a (for example) 23 would be FLASH FLASH (pause) FLASH FLASH FLASH (long pause) It will never flash more than 9 times, watch for pauses! 55 is end of codes - it's normal. Before you call your dealer or mechanic, consider that the blink-spacing is not always perfectly uniform, so if you see 23 23, it's probably just a single 55. (Codes are not repeated.) 33 is normal on earlier models if you don't have air conditioning. IMPORTANT. Codes may be different for newer vehicles starting in the late 1990s. 11 No ignition reference signal detected during cranking (bad Hall effect) OR timing belt skipped one or more teeth; OR loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor. Can cause the engine to stop working entirely with no limp-home mode. 12 Battery or computer recently disconnected 13* MAP sensor or vacuum line may not be working 14* MAP sensor voltage below .16V or over 4.96V >15 No speed/distance sensor signal 16* Loss of battery voltage detected with engine running 17 Engine stays cool too long (bad thermostat or coolant sensor?) 17 (1985 turbo only): knock sensor circuit 21 Oxygen sensor signal doesn't change (stays at 4.3-4.5V). Probably bad oxygen sensor 22* Coolant sensor signal out of range - May have been disconnected to set timing 23* Incoming air temperature sensor may be bad 24* Throttle position sensor over 4.96V (SEE NOTE #3) 25 Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) motor driver circuit shorted or target idle not reached, vacuum leak found 26 Peak injector circuit voltage has not been reached (need to check computer signals, voltage reg, injectors) (SEE NOTE #4 BELOW) 27 Injector circuit isn't switching when it's told to (TBI)

OR (MPI) injector circuit #1 not switching right

OR (turbo) injector circuit #2 not switching right

OR (all 1990-) injector output driver not responding

- check computer, connections 31 Bad evaporator purge solenoid circuit or driver 32 (1984 only) power loss/limited lamp or circuit 32 EGR gases not working (1988) - check vacuum, valve 32 (1990-92, all but Turbo) computer didn't see change in air/'fuel ratio when EGR activated - check valve, vacuum lines, and EGR electrical 33 Air conditioning clutch relay circuit open or shorted (may be in the wide-open-throttle cutoff circuit) 34 (1984-86) EGR solenoid circuit shorted or open 34 (1987-1991) speed control shorted or open 35 Cooling fan relay circuit open or shorted 35 (trucks) idle switch motor fault - check connections 36 (turbo) Wastegate control circuit open or shorted 36 (3.9/5.2 RWD) solenoid coil circuit (air switching) 36 (Turbo IV) #3 Vent Solenoid open/short 37 Shift indicator light failure, 5-speed

OR

part throttle lock/unlock solenoid driver circuit (87-89)

OR

solenoid coil circuit (85-89 Turbo I-IV)

OR

Trans temperature sensor voltage low (1995 and on; see NOTE 2) 41* Alternator field control circuit open or shorted 42 Automatic shutdown relay circuit open or shorted 42 Fuel pump relay control circuit 42 Fuel level unit - no change over miles

OR 42 Z1 voltage missing when auto shutdown circuit energized (SEE NOTE #6) 43 Peak primary coil current not achieved with max dwell time

OR 43 Cylinder misfire

OR 43 Problem in power module to logic module interface 44 No FJ2 voltage present at logic board

OR 44 Logic module self-diagnostics indicate problem

OR 44 Battery temperature out of range (see Note #1!) 45 Turbo boost limit exceeded (engine was shut down by logic module) 46* Battery voltage too high during charging or charging system voltage too low 47 Battery voltage too low and alternator output too low 51 Oxygen sensor stuck at lean position (Bob Lincoln wrote: may be tripped by a bad MAP sensor system causing a rich condition, and the O2 sensor trying to compensate. The O2 sensor may still be good. The MAP assembly consists of two pieces, the valve and the vacuum transducer (round plastic unit with cylinder on top and both electrical and vacuum connections) - If you get hot rough idle and stalling, especially on deceleration, accompanied by flooded engine and difficulty restarting, that can be a bad MAP sensor causing the O2 sensor to try to compensate. If you get poor cold drivability, stumbling and bucking, and acceptable warm driving with poor gas mileage (a drop of 10 mpg or more), that is usually the O2 sensor. OR 51 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only). 52 Oxygen sensor stuck at rich position (SEE NOTE #5!)

OR 52 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only) 53 Logic module internal problem 54 No sync pickup signal during engine rotation (turbo only)

OR 54 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only) - or camshaft sensor/distributor timing (7) 55 End of codes 61 "Baro" sensor open or shorted 62 EMR mileage cannot be stored in EEPROM 62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored 63 Controller cannot write to EEPROM 64 Catalytic converter efficiency failure 65 Power steering switch failure 88 Start of test (not usually given, don't expect it)