Clutches and Flywheels

Assuming you mean the clutch won't disengage and the system has been bled properly, the pressure plate may be damaged or the clutch disc is installed backwards (if the clutch was just replaced). Also, with some vehicles the clutch master cylinder has to be bench bled before installation.

How to fit clutch cable on a daewoo cielo

it is slow

On my 2001 TJ it is on the upper portion of the fire wall. It is the large wire harness center of the engine compartment.

Mine is the blue/black wire.

good luck!

Happy was here.

Yes.

That section is called the gear shift linkage. Most likely, the clutch cable ends in an "end loop", which is a circle on the end of the clutch cable. There's a metal ball at the bottom of the shift lever (the gear shift, the thing you change gears with) that goes into the end loop. This metal ball going into the end loop is called "Ball Joint Linkage". The little fastener that keeps the ball and the end joint together is called a bushing.

Don't let a mechanic replace your clutch cable when all you have is a broken bushing!

Purchase a clutch rebuild kit, and a clutch puller tool.

Yes, Need to be carefull:

The 350 flows more air so the don't use the 305 manifolds.

The 350 makes a bunch more power so you nedd to make sure the clutch is good and rated for the power

When it begins to give problems, such as slipping. There is no fixed interval and the mileage for clutch replacement can have extreme variations, depending upon individual driver's clutch expertise, driving style, and driving profile, e.g., a BMW 330i that is driven mainly on 300 mile non-stop trips on Texas Interstates may last 200,000 miles, one driven exclusively in New York City may last 25,000 miles, and one raced on the track may last 1,000 miles or less.

So your clutch is a bit like your tires -- only replace it when it wears out or has a problem.

Fill master cylinder. Put car on jack stands. Put a length of hose over the bleeder valve and place the loose end into a pan filled with brake fluid. (End must be submerged.) Have someone push clutch pedal and hold it. Open bleeder valve. Close it when the fluid stops flowing. Release pedal after valve is closed. Repeat until no more bubbles come out in the pan. Watch the master cylinder... if it gets too low, it will suck air back in.

I have the same bike. Harley Davidson is aware of the problem and there is supposed to be replacements for the inner and outer clutch bearings. The issue with this bike is "Expect to continue to have this problem every 7k to 10k miles". Mine is going into the shop for the 4th time to have the bearings replaced and the bike only has 38k miles. Seems that in their diligence to create the Harley Davidson line more cheaply the powers that be ended up with a product that just keeps falling apart.

Greed has its drawbacks and HD has reached the pinacle of creating way over priced junk.

Granted, I love my bike and my wife and I have enjoyed every riding mile. After it is fixed this time I am going to clean it up and treat it like a Corvette. Park it in the garage and only ride it on Sundays to the store and back.

We decided that it would be best to buy something with a history of quality and extreme durability so we purchased a 2004 Kawasaki Vulcan Nomad that has 14k miles on it.

Do what you want but if riding a lot is what you like to do, don't buy a Harley Davidson.

Yes.

Driver side top of firewall. it has the brake fluid in it.

According to the 2003 Ford F-150 Owner Guide :

The clutch fluid ( and brake fluid ) is DOT 3 brake fluid meeting Ford

specification ESA-M6C25-A

To keep the leaf spring in place and it doesnt fall a part

If you allowed the master/reservoir to drain empty while the line was disconnected or installed the master dry, you may have to remove the master and bench bleed it first. Always keep the reservoir full during the process.

the library has chilton repair manuals,i just copy the page,pages that i need for .10 cents a copy

First, check the electric system, fuses, circuit breaker, and connection to the clutch assy. Chances are your refrigerant level is low and the low pressure cut out switch is preventing the clutch from engaging in order to protect the compressor. You can jump across the terminals at the overload fuse to check operation of the clutch but only for a short period of time in case your system is low on refrig/oil. Evacuate and recharge the system.

It is a type of ........................................................

Answer: "Riding the clutch"

If you are not completely sure that the clutch is completely gone...

Start with checking the reservoir you might be able to extend the life of the clutch by refilling the DOT3 brake fluid,

If this is the case there is a leak in a cylinder.... so keep refilling as needed but you will eventually have to replace the slave cylinder and/or the master cylinder

Refilling the DOT3 brake fluid should keep you going for a time though

You may have a loose clutch cable.

If you are not experienced or very mechanically inclined this will be hard. Start out by getting a Haynes Or Chiltons, then follow the direction. You have to take the transmission out,then remove and replace the clutch. It is not as easy as it sounds, and the tranny is heavy.

2 bolts under the dash and take the clip off from the inside holding the shaft to the pedal and the line from the outside it comes wit h a new pin if u buy a new one so grap it with something and rip the pin out getting it back in is the fun part i went thru the fender well it will pull out from undewr the hood

there is not adjustment for the clutch, you need to replace it if is bad.