CV Joints

Check your local library for a repair manual, or automedia.com

I'm assuming you mean house pipe joints. Start at the pipe union, using a bigger pipe wrench if necessary. If the joint breaks you will have to replace the pipe. Unfortunately there aren't any real good tricks, it just takes a lot of force. you can try draining the pipe and adding heat, but don't get it hot enough to melt the galvanized coating otherwise you'll NEVER get the pipe off. If it's a gas pipe don't try putting heat on the line. That wouldn't be good.

Worn passenger side front wheel bearings.

what is the general cost for sealant replacing in expansion joints

Remove driveshaft nut,remove kingpin grease cap and remove 17mm nut.Lever down kingpin from upper arm and remove driveshaft from hub.Hammer c.v. joint off shaft( inner circlip).

This is actually quite simple first take your wheel and tire off to make things easier you can take your rotor and caliper off but is not necessary remove axle nut in center (should be like a 34mm deep socket and pull your lower ball joint out of the socket (theres a nut on top and don' t forget to get that cotter pin) then pull the whole hub assembly and everything towards you and remove that end of the axle out (thats the hard part) then place your prybar between the transaxle and that end of the cv axle and pry against it the axle should just pop out .

YES

Could be,

Air in the PS system,

Loose/worn PS belt,

PS pump going bad,

CV axle joint going bad,

Wheel bearing going bad,

Under normal operation, indefinitely.

when backing up or going forward - when we turn the car we hear a grinding noise - is this likely a problem in the rear wheels with the c v joints

Have you look for dirt and water in transfer case, pumkins? drain the oil and add new in the pumkins takeoff inspection plate look to see what is going on. This will save you money especially if you can fix it yourself.

Grinding noise sounds like the linkage is not adjusted correctly.

check joints in front drive shaft

You need to create a CV that's relevant to the position (or type of job) you're aiming at. If you've had a variety of previous jobs, it's no good emphasising (for example) that you've been a window cleaner - if you're applying fro an office job.

The 'old style' is to simply list your previous jobs chronologically from the most recent - and work backwards to your very first job. However - as said above - it doesn't give prospective employers the chance to see relevant positions together.

Your best option - would be to talk it over with a professional company - such as an employment agency or careers advice centre. They'll look at your current CV (if you have one) and/or help you construct one (or more) depending on your needs.

Additionally - don't go into great detail about your hobbies, interests etc. An employer isn't really that interested in what you do outside the workplace - unless it could impact on your ability to do the job they're paying you to do.

No

No

Instead of giving step by step instructions on removal of the CV Joint which is something that is beyond my capabilities I'll tell you what I did.

The rubber boot surrounding the CV Joint on my 95 GC Ltd with 5.2L engine was ripped badly and I took it in to be serviced at my trusted mechanic. The Napa parts guy that he buys from told him that Chrysler now installs universal joints instead of replacing the CV Joint (apparently the boot and joint are not sold as separate parts). I had this done and my vehicle has been running just fine. I'm sure that a replacement CV Joint is available but I know that the U Joint was a less expensive option. I hope to hear more from other contributors as time goes on about this. You might call a dealer and ask them their opinion as well.

Good luck on this !!

the outer CV joint is a non-serviceable and non-removable item on the escort and ZX2. If it is bad it will need replacement.

to remove the boot and replace it there are two ways to do it.

(1) cut the boot off and replace it with a speed boot (a boot split down the length which then gets glued together)

(2) either cut the boot off or slide it off. This method will take more work than the speed boot. This will require removal of the complete half axle. You will first have to separate the inner joint and remove that boot as well. Once the joint is separated, the tripod bearing will have to be removed. Once all this is done the new boot for the outer CV joint can be installed. If you do this method, you should also install a new inner boot as well.

You will actually replace the axle assembly for the side that is worn out.

Raise the hood and disconnect the positive (+) lead from the battery.

Block the rear tires.

Remove the hub cap on the appropriate side.

Remove the axle cotter pin and locking crown.

Remove the large axle nut (34 mm).

Place a large brass drift against the indent on the outboard end of the axle, and strike

it with a large hammer to loosen it.

Loosen the lug nuts.

Put the vehicle's transmission in neutral.

Raise the vehicle.

Support the vehicle with appropriate stands. Remember, a car will crush you is it lands on you.

Remove the wheel and tire.

On the underneath side of the suspension, you will see a group of three (3) 12 mm bolts, remove these. This will separate the suspension arm into upper and lower sections and provide enough play to remove the axle.

Push the axle out of the hub assembly.

Once it is clear of the hub assembly, put it out of the transmission. Most years of the Villager do not bolt the axle assembly onto the transmission.

Installation is the reverse of disassembly.

The wheel will be stuck or will shake the engine. if you put the spacer that attaches to the CV joint on back wards it will be hard to turn. there is a wrong way and right way to put that spacer on. I put mine on backwards and the wheel did not even turn. try cleaning it out with mineral spirits then regressing it and put back together.

First, if it's a 2.0 there's no replacing just the joints, you'll have to replace the whole half-shafts. A slide hammer and a circlip puller are some specialty tools you'll need. pull the circlips on the wheel side and use the slide hammer to pull the shaft.

It's false economy to continue packing the joint with grease. The longer the torn boot is left, the more expensive the damage. Even if you pack the joint with grease, road debris will be picked up during journeys and will stick to the grease. stone chips, glass, grit, dirt and more. The constant motion of the grease around the joint will allow this debris to make its way to the joint splines and have an abrasive effect. When you come to changing the boot, you will find that you have to pay far more to replace the loose fitting joint as well. You could shop around to get a low cost alternative to your manufacturers' own brand (as long as you are not within vehicle warranty) and have a local mechanic fit them for much less than a dealership mechanic. Always get both boots replaced at the same time. If it takes the mechanic 30 minutes to replace one boot and he charges by the hour, you can get two boots done for 1 hour's labor rather than take it back a second time and pay for an extra hour's labor.

take tire off then the break caliper then undo the upper ball joint then unhook the strut fron the a arm. undo the axle nut and pop it out of the trans. then your done not to hard.

Listen to your father: go to the nearest public library and get a Honda manual--it will describe everything in detail!

There's no set time or mileage. Alot has to do with weather, driving conditions as well as miles and time. The rubber boots on the outside of the CV joints is usually what gives out first, either being torn ro being ripped or deteriorating over time allowing the grease inside the boot to come out and dirt and dust to get in and the damage starts.

I have never had one go bad where the boot was still totally intact and the bearings go bad inside but I am sure it can happen.

It depends, some may fail earlier than others due to wear, deterioration of boots, etc. I would venture a guess at something like 150K if I had to, but some almost never go bad. Signs that one is broken or damaged are clicking or popping noises during turning and sometimes a clunk when accelerating. I think, as with many other things, quick lube/big-chain shops coerce people into replacing them when they are not really bad They are virtually maintenance free, unless a boot tears - it must then be repaired quickly to prevent damage to the joint.

The way I do this is old school.

Examine all vacum lines, conections, Ts lines and accessories.

Start car and listen, sit in drivers seat with door closed and listen with stereo and heater off, turn heat on fan on lowest setting, change to all heat cool and defrost, foot and AC outlet settings.

If by now you have not heard a hiss from a leak then the next step must be performed outdoors on a fairly wind calm day. Take a propane plumbers torch. Turn it on so it leaks propane with out lighting it. Move slowly past intake gaskets, vacume lines and accessories. The engine note will change for a split second.

Good Luck

The left CV joint can be replaced on a 1989 Honda Accord by removing the left tire and the moving the brake lines. Next, the ball joint and the tie rod should be removed, which will allow for their to be enough room to use a pry bar against the transmission which will pop out the CV joint.

No, the CV axle only allows the power from the engine to reach the wheels. It does not affect the alignment, which is what will cause uneven wear.