CV Joints

You have to buy the whole axle....cost about $486 on line from Coleman Equipment

they do not sell individual parts. Kubota knows that these axles are only good for about 400 hours. this is some of the first junk that Kubota has made. Most of their stuff is good for at lease 2000 hours. Sad but true, the rear u joints can be bought on Ebay at about half price.

I just finished doing one. If its the passenger side. undo the lowerball joint, and pop it out. undo the king nut on the tie rod end, and take it out. Take out the end links. Unbolt the center nut on the cv shaft. Use a tool to push the shaft out of the hub assembly..you can get the tool at a parts store or rent it. Than there should be 2 nuts on a heat shield, should be 15 mm I think. Take them off. and just slide it out nice and easy. Than pop the cv shaft into 2 peices. since it comes apart at the head shield. The straight part you put back in, than reattach the heatsheild. Take the outer half of the CV shaft and press it into the first peice until it clips. And the rest if just reverse of how you took it apart. Im warning you now. Its a nightmare.

take it to a mechanic!

The inner CV joint is fairly simple to remove. First you'll want to remove the clamps from the boot (you'll want to buy the additional clamp kit for $2). Being careful not to puncture the boot you can pry up on the tabs that hold the band in place or just cut by putting a screwdriver under them and prying up to give you enough room to get the metal snips under them. Once the boot is free slide it back toward the outer CV joint to expose the inner components. If you run your finger up one of the ball track you'll find a large retaining clip that goes around the inside of the joint just above the ball tracks. Remove the clip by getting behind it with a small screwdriver or utility knife. Once this clip is removed the inner cage, race, balls & shaft will come out all together (wrap your hand around this to prevent the balls from falling out all over the place). On most vehicles you'll find a retaining clip on the back of the shaft, remove this with retaining clip pliers or a large screw driver to spread the clip open. On some Polaris and Bombardier models the clip is recessed into the race on the side facing toward the outer CV joint. These should be spread open and then tap on the race to allow for removal. Once this is removed you'll be able to remove the cage, race, & balls all together at one time. Now your ready to install it on your new half shaft.Make sure the boot goes on first. Then place the cage, race & balls assembly on the shaft making sure that the tapered side of the cage and the recessed side of the race are facing toward the outer CV joint. Install the clip to hold it onto the shaft (unless you have the recessed type this will already be in the race. Then fill the inner CV joint housing half way with grease and place it over the cage, race, & balls. Then reinstall the large clip. Now put the remaining grease on top of the bearing and pull the boot down and install the large clamp. Then take a screw driver and place it in between the small part of the boot and the shaft and push the inner CV joint in all the way until it bottoms out. Then pull it back halfway (or to the mid range of the inner CV joint) and remove the screw driver and install the small clamp. Your now ready to install the axle back in the vehicle.

Actually it is the continuously variable transmission (CVT). Unlike traditional automatic transmissions, continuously variable transmissions don't have a gearbox with a set number of gears, which means they don't have interlocking toothed wheels. The most common type of CVT operates on an ingenious pulley system that allows an infinite variability between highest and lowest gears with no discrete steps or shifts. This is all done with pulleys and not with gears although the ratio does change just like in a regular transmission. Click the link.

Check for grease leaking around cv boots located @ each end of the cv shaft. Bad cv joints will normally start with a clicking sound and the progress to a clunk.you may also grab cv shaft with pliors,try to rotate shaft left to right.look for play. if playor leak of grease replace.

It would be to your advantage to purchase a Haynes Manual specific to your car. They can be purchased at most parts stores.

Sounds like a bad CV joint. On most cars, it is often more economical to replace the complete axle shaft on that side that has a bad cv joint. Hope this helps. Good-luck!

Turn your wheel all the way to one side.You will see the rubber boot if this is cracked replace that side.Yes,it is valuable to check both sides at the same time,but it is not necessary to do both at the same time.

I would recommend purchasing a Haynes Manual. It gives you a complete tear down. You can purchase it at a pepboys

It is likely to be your c-v joint coming apart. You can drive it until it slings all the grease out all over your undercarriage then breaks in half drive down a curving mountain road, or you can replace your axle.

your car will not be able to move sees the shaft is broke.

First you need to loosen the CV shaft nut with the car on the ground in park. You need to raise the car, remove the wheel, unbolt the strut through bolts on the spindle, unbolt and separate the lower ball joint, unbolt and separate the tie rod end stud, remove the caliper from the spindle, and tap the CV shaft back so it's loose in the spindle. Move the spindle assembly back and free from the CV shaft. If it's the left CV shaft you can now pry it out of the transmission housing, it will just pop out. If it's the right CV shaft, you will need to remove the three bolts holding it to the carrier bearing bracket, then pull it out.

TO REMOVE IT YOU NEED A SLIDE HAMMER AND PULLER ADAPTER TO PLACE AROUND THE SHAFT WHERE THE C CLIP IS (REMOVE IT FIRST AND ATTACH THE PULLER ADAPTER AND THERE YOU HAVE IT

much easier way is to change the whole shaft.

Hang cars front end and put stands under the frame by the front doors or engine cradle. remove front tires and possibly calipers/rotors if easy enough. DONT undo brake flexhoses.

remove cotter pin and nut in lower ball joints and separate/remove ball joint stud from lower control arm.

remove large nut in center of hubs (38mm) plus or minus a few sizes. without wrecking threads, hit the cv shaft stubs through the hub towards the tranny and pull it away from the hubs.

now, tricky part, put drainpan under tranny where each cv shaft goes into the tranny.

pry between cv joint cup and tranny (preferably on a bolt head and not the tranny case) and whack the opposite side of the cup with a hefty hammer a bunch of times, it should pop out. keep pressure on the cup when hitting it.

pull shaft all the way out of tranny.

changing cv joint involves cutting the rubber boot off. remove any internal snaprings, pull bearing cross out of cup, clean it all, put new parts together, grease it all, reverse removal procedure, dont forget to clamp/ziptie the boot shut.

p.s., the boot is probably going to be he toughest part. very resilient rubber.

good luck,

Yes

How much does it cost to replace a cv joint on 4 wheel drive

20 minutes if you know what your doing. i just watched my buddy change my driver side shaft in my driveway in just under 20 minutes.

Some guides to write a CV, more commonly known as a resume, include not only online sources, but job coaches, employment centers, government-funded job training centers, and private training and critique centers that can be found on community college campuses.

Most vehicles, no but, it depends on what vehicle you have. More info please and re-post.

why bother, spend your money wisely. vehicles can be the worst investment you make.

In general, it's not worth it to replace CV joint boots, the CV joint usually fails within a few months anyway and your efforts are pretty much wasted. If you really want to, you can purchas a split boot that will fit over the CV joint. But the right way would be to pull the half-shaft, disassemble the shaft removing a CV joint, thoroughly clean the CV joints, replace the grease and put new boots on both CV joints. The BEST solution would be to find out who does alignments for the reputable body shops in your area. Find out who is recommended by the most body shops. Call around, find out who they use then make an appointment to have them do it for you. If you remove the CV joints you'll need to do an alignment anyway and those guys often do the whole job for not much more than the alignment plus the price of the part. I wouldn't even recommend touching the CV joints. Let someone else do it, that truly is one of the jobs that's not worth it.

Not likely. This sounds like a transmission about to fully fail. You have this listed as a stalling problem. Does the vehicle stall as well? If it is an early 90's to early 2000's Chrysler product, then the transmission is almost certainly the problem. there are other vehicles that have transmission problems, but the Chrysler products of that era are particularly likely to lose transmissions. You can pull the transmission dipstick, & see if the fluid is discolored or smells burned. These checks will not always show up in a failed transmission, but are likely. If you find that it is a failed transmission, do not buy one from a junk yard, you need to replace it with a rebuilt from a reputable dealer. If yours is not too far gone it can be rebuilt, but the problem was with a seal design in most of these, therefore it must be fixed, another factory transmission will only have the same problem. You can ask at your local dealership, if it is a recurring problem transmission, they will know a reputable rebuild shop.

They keep you from rolling over in a sudden evasive manuver. You can drive carefully with them broken or missing. Some people take them off while off-roading. They are easy to replace. It's just basically a tough bolt. If the old ones are rusted up, just spray with some pb blaster or wd 40 before. If they are really seized up, then use a hack saw or dremel and cut them out . The new ones are a breeze to put in. They only cost about $25.00 for both sides at NAPA. Tighten them until the bushings are slightly squeezed together or about 25 pounds.

The Nissan Sentra is a Front Wheel Drive(FWD), and as such has no u-joint. Since the engine is transversely(sideways) mounted, there is no driveshaft to connect from the transmission to the axe housing. Instead directly fromt he transmission outdrive there are a pair of halfshafts which go out to the wheels. Each halfshaft has an inner and outter CV joint. CV Means Constant Velocity. They are smoother in operation, and can be turned into a deeper arc then can a u-joint usually. As for why CV joints are not used in place of u-joints everywhere t's a matter of economics. u-joints are MUCH stronger, and cheaper to manufacture, but they will not work in a FWD situation. Rear Wheel Drives drivelines are subjected to ALOT higher torque multiplication then any front wheel drive is capable of. While it's possible to get extreme amounts of horsepower out of those little engines, it's the torque that really breaks things, not the horsepower.