CV Joints

Worn Brake pads. ? needs to be more specific.

The CV joint in a 2000 Kia Sportage can be replace by roving the tires, axle nuts, and the knuckle bolts on the struts. Next, the CV joint can be removed by placing a screwdriver between the transmission and the CV joint will pop out.

This is a relative question. Its easy for someone who is mechanically inclined, and perhaps difficult for someone whom would ask such a question.

Universal joints (as used on a conventional prop shafts used in rear wheel drive cars) cause the output end off the shaft to rotate at varying speeds, while the input end rotates at a constant speed, i.e. it speeds up and slows down at it rotates.

Using a CV or 'Constant Velocity' joint eliminates this variation in speed.

The use of moveable joints in drive shafts is the allow for suspension/steering movements.

The CV joint in a 2002 Ford Mustang can be replaced by removing the front wheel, and the cotter pin and nuts. Next, the tie-rod end, and the stabilizer bar link, will need to be removed and the CV joint can be removed from the housing when removed from the knuckle.

Inspect the rubber boot that covers the joint. If it is torn, and there is dirt and grit up inside, your cv joint is about to fail. You'll know it is failing when it starts clicking. It will click each time the wheel turns. The clicking gets worse as you turn the wheel. The clicking gets worse and louder and turns into a 'thunk' right before it self destructs.

A person will need to remove the tire and the lower strut bolt and sway bar of the 2002 Jeep Liberty. Next, the CV axle can be removed, which can be done with a pry bar between the transmission and the CV joint.

had the problem -- if grease isn't put on it when first assembled, or its been a long time - the trans shaft will start to rust and the c- clip on the shaft will not be able to compress. Only way toi get it off is to cut it -- use a dremel - cut the shat with the dremel at a 90' angle to the cvshaft - make 1 cut alon it -- be careful not to go in too far - then turn the cvshaft 1/4 turn and do another cut - then just before the shaft gets large -- cut across the the 2 new cuts and get a cold chisle drive it between 1 of the fits cuts and the CV shaft should break apart where the cut is -- that takes care of 1/4 - then make new cut - turn shaft 1/2 way around - and with 1/2 the shaft cut away -- it should just pull off-- with a dremel -- it took me about an hour from start to finish-- not bad

Instruction for Mazda 323 (09/89 to 07/94) in German language including many pictures you will find at www.autoschrauber.de/art/000069/achsmanschette _wechseln.htm .

www.popuplights.co.UK have a step by step guide for some related areas. it might be worth the look.

These axles and the Mitsubishi Galant axles get rusted in so tightly, that I have had to take the whole steering knuckle assy off with the axle still attached ad use a hydraulic press to separate the axle. I have also had to just replace the axle, hub/bearing, steering knuckle and backing plate on one also.

Suspension/vehicle level has been altered.

Driver abuse.

Poor quality replacement CV shafts.

Unless you wish to be walking unexpectedly, yes. The CV joint provides power to the wheels in a front wheel drive car, and losing one will stop the car wherever you happen to be.

30 mins to 1 hour

Go to your local auto parts store, or large book store and pick up a copy of either a Haynes or Chiltons manual. Their detail and simplicity make them relatively easy to use. The Haynes manual is usually the cheaper of the two; about $15.00. Good luck, read all the information first and be safe.

Consider replacing the CV axle instead of just the joint. Having done this for many years, it is a better value and not so labor intensive. Price it out locally and I expect it should fall in the 200.00 price area complete. Shop around.

A continious dull banging coming from the wheel when turning

mine has just gone and i will be changing the whole driveshaft, this is to save time although it is a little more expensive, if the driveshaft goes after just changing the cv joint you will have wasted your money.

not really, have the tires balanced...when they have the wheels off to balance the tires, then have the guy....ok maybe a girl...look around your front end for any obvious problems, like a bad CV boot/joint!!:) and read a good book.. everyone should have a manual for their vehicle, and the library should have a professional manual available...in the reference section, you'll have to make copies of the important sections...good luck :) Normally no, CV joint problems usually become apparent when cornering mostly very tightly, there can be a rattling or clunky noise. The problem you describe is more likely localised to the wheel or tyre, e.g unbalanced wheel/tyre, a buckle or dent in a wheel rim, a bulge in a tyre, tyre under-inflated. I hope this helps technoparaphernalia@yahoo.co.uk a bad inner joint has been known to cause a vibration.

Ball joints on any vehicle. Jack the car up so the front tires are off the ground. Grab the tire at the top and bottom and see if it moves. CV axle will usually click turning corners and as they get worse they will click moving straight.

If not replaced the ball bearings can start dropping out. when this happens your vehicle will not go anywhere,

Transmission fluid on a front wheel drive. All wheel drive unit fluid on a an all wheel drive.

foody force#

Take it to a mechanic!

I agree with the last answer, an independent one. You replace the shaft, not the jont-not worth just doing the joint!

Changing the front CV joint on a 4-cylinder (1987) is easy. Napa sells the half-shaft with a new boot and cv joint for less than $70. It took longer to get the car jacked up, to read the manual, finding out you don't have to disconnect any of the steering parts (on the pax side) that they tell you too in the manual, and the general 1st time caution, than the actual job. If I had to change it again I think it can be done in less than a 1/2 hour.

The most difficult step is removing (not as difficult as replacing) and replacing the new shaft into the tranny. You will need to use a wooden block for the replacement (long 2X4) and large sledge. It (the replacement) will be a two man operation regardless of the tools of choice. You may find a special tool for this but to use it effectively you will need to dis-assemble more of the wheel assembly that is necessary if using the wood/sledge approach. Common sense should be applied during all stages of frustration. Good luck!

remove axle, separate joint inner or outter joint, clean, regrease, and put it back together with a new boot