Dodge Durango

Most crankshaft sensors are located above the harmonic balancer next to the timing chain cover . Good Luck Workin Man's Auto Repair ,Akron OhioMost crank sensors are above the harmonic balancer (front) or left of bell housing on the engine block (rear)

There are pages and pages of things that can cause a check engine light. You need to have it checked with a scantool. Then the code can be diagnosed and repaired.

There should be dots on both gears. Place cam at 6 o clock crank at 12. They will line up together in between the 2. It's easier if you put engine in this position (old gears with cover off) before you remove the old chain.

The 2011 Dodge Durango has a 9 ft. 11.8 in. (119.8 in.) wheel base.

The maximum tosing capacity of the 2012 Dodge Durango is 5000 lbs..

The 2005 Dodge Durango has a V6 engine.

On the 3.6L engine it is on the top of the motor. You remove a access panel and unscrew the oil filter cup. The filter is a paper element under neath.

On the 3.6L engine it is on the top of the motor. You remove a access panel and unscrew the oil filter cup. The filter is a paper element under neath.

AWD means all wheels at different speed. normal driving condition

4 lock means all 4 wheels at same speed, offroading & straight driving, no turnings.

remove the old bulb and keep the new one instead

No, the V6 and V8 transmissions are different.

Mopar atf+4 Do not use Dextron/Mercon

The emergency brake release handle is to the left of the steering wheel. Down below, and is flush with the panel. Pull the finger tab and release.

The coolant capacity for a 2000 Dodge Durango with a 4.7 Liter engine is 14.3 quarts. This is equal to 13.6 liters.

31 inches i have them on my 1999 and they dont rub

$65.00 for the pump at autozone lifetime warranty to have someone install it about $350.00

Hastings has it for way less, also lifetime. That's a high labor quote too. Be aware that the aluminum timing covers on these blocks tend to corrode and crumble around the water passages.

Dynamite?

Yes, there are plugs under both mounts, along with the back of the engine(trans has to be removed for these).

Any oil that meets SAE specifications. Look for the engineering specifications on the top of the can, but generally any of the commercially available oils meet the specifications.

Use whatever oil has been in the vehicle in the past.

How old is the vehicle? If the engine has a lot of miles on it there has probably been some wear on the babbit bearings. If the oil pressure is down you need to use a slightly higher viscosity. Otherwise, use the lowest viscosity that you can.

One thing to remember is to make sure what has always been in it is the right oil. My S-10 Blazer has the remote oil sending unit and calls for 5W/30 only. I am assuming this is because the oil travels so far from under the truck to the oil filter located up around the engine.

it's on top of the engine close to where the thermostat is.it does have two wires 18 or 20 ga.

It is on the right side of the radiator (driver's side), not on the bottom, as would make sense. On my 03, there is a small access on the lower right side of the facia that is barely big enough for a hand. Look for a small protrusion with a fin (handle) on it. That is the petcock. Get ready for a mess...as it drains all over everything, and will drip from the middle of the bumper. good luck

5w30 in winter 10w40 summer 5w30 from 0 to 90 degrees over 90 use 10w40

7 quarts

The BEST way is to remove the wheel, pop off the drum and measure the surface area of the shoes. My best guess is 10's; however, if you want the sure answer...

first drain your tranny fluid by easing the bolts out of the pan a little at a time until all fluid is drained and replace pan,with just a few bolts. remove your driveshafts four bolts that hold it to the rear end, take driveshaft out and put to the side, it just slides out of the tranny. remove your starter by taking out the bottom bolt first, then you have to use a rather long extension to get to the bolt on the top. take the four nuts off of the exhaust flange. remove crossmember and unbolt it from tranny and disconnect the exhaust from the crossmember. then remove all lines and linkage and sensor plugs on the transmission, remove the dust cover from over the flywheel and torque converter, and take your torque converter bolts out one at a time, you have to turn the engine by the crank bolt on the front of the dampener on the front of the motor, turn it slowly and have someone watch for the other bolts to come around and that's how you take the converter bolts out, once you have done all of this jack the tranny up slowly to relieve the pressure off of the bell housing bolts, take out all the bell housing bolts you can get to and the ease the jack down, the transmission should ease way down and you will be able to get some long extensions and roll right on in there and get the top two out. JUST BE CAREFUL DONT LET IT FALL ON YOU and don't break nothing..........almost forgot before you let the jack down just remember to get the dipstick out of it