Dodge Intrepid

The bolts on a 94 Dodge Intrepid valve cover need to be very tight. You should tighten to 12 N*m or 105 inch pounds.

One of the main reasons a car stalls out is because of a worn out sensor or a faulty electrical component. Some other very common reasons are a vacuum system leak, a clogged catalytic convertor, and a leak in the fuel system.

5X114.3

i don't think the timing is adjustable on that car. It's controlled by the computer and is based on inputs from sensors.

If you have a 3.5 liter motor, take it to an independent shop, I would not recommend it for d-i-y ers.

This was already answered for me in another post. It was the ignition switch.

There are three bolts. 10mm socket

I have a 96 and it is directly under the wheel. My turn signals do not work at all. I am having a hellofa time with it.

P0700 is transmission code present. The PCM sets this code when there is a code in the TCM. You will need to have the TCM checked to know it's code and possible causes.

That is the check engine light, see related question below.

Charging system failure:::,check alt.voltage regulator is inside engine controller

Drain plug athe rear or side of the oil pan

if your ecm is bad, first off the car won't start, your fuel pump won't work, no spark, basically everything shuts down

Ok the above can be symptoms of a bad ECM, But that's not the only answer. Your car's Check Engine light will definitely be on. Your car may run like the timing is off, and not get up to speed. Get someone (a mechanic or Auto Zone) to run their code scanner on your car. If it throws out codes that show Ignition Coil A-E failure, CKP and CMP imminent failure, TPS and Pedal Sensor High Circuit, TPS and Pedal Sensor Low Cicuit, MAP and BARO Sensor High and Low. Then you definitely need to get the ECM checked out and replaced. This just happened top a car I worked on and when the ECM was replaced it fixed everything.

1-2-3-4-5-6

Find the leak, and fix the cause.

You first need to loosen the Idler pully nut that the power steering and altenater belt rides on. Then right behind the idler pully you need to loosen the bolt counter clockwise until tension is released enough to get belt off. Then loosen retainer bolt just below tensioner on a/c belt. You then need to move down tensioner to install/remove a/c belt(best results with braker bar). Repeat steps backwards and tighten all bolts to install. Travis

You must remove the instrument panel from the vehicle, and then remove the HVAC housing. The heater core is inside the HVAC housing. This can be a pretty big job, so unless your willing to spend some serious time with it, you may want to leave it to a professional. Your local Dodge dealership should be able to handle this repair for you with no problem. Pulling the instrument panel on those cars was quite common to change evaporators back in the day. I can't say I've seen very many heater cores go bad in them though.

This will work on any car, look at the engine from the front if it's a V engine meanning cylinders on boths sides. One of the cylinders or spark plugs will be more forward towards the front of the car. that's #1 cylinder then that side will be 1,3,5 and the other side will be 2,4,6

It means the charging system voltage (is) too low, Check the alternator and the voltage regulator. The voltage regulator is a part of the powertrain control module or PCM.

A sentence with the word 'intrepid' is 'There were many intrepid explorers that traveled to the New World. ' The word 'intrepid' means to be dauntless or fearless.

You need to have the engine and trans checked for codes. The trans computer defaults to 2nd gear when it detects a problem and sets a code. You could have anything from a sensor failure to a major internal failure.

This could be a lengthy list so...Dead battery, broken timing chain, stopped up fuel filter, no crank sensor, no gas, damaged ignition system, stopped up exhaust system, stopped up air intake filter,starter motor problems, fuel pump relay...Just off the top of my head.

On the front of the crankshaft, under the timing covers.

On the front of the crankshaft, under the timing covers.

Unscrew the bolts. Buuut....don't drop the engine on your head! The Motor is mounted to the sub-frame along with various susupension and other parts. I had to replace one on my Intrepid so I only took one off. You will have to put a jack under the motor/sub-frame when you unscrew the bushings, drop the sub-frame away from the unibody (what the subframe bolts to), and replace the top and bottom portion of the bushing. It is a two part kit available from Dorman and others, but not an easy find...

It is on the left (drivers side) of the engine near the front.