Dodge Intrepid

your gonna think this is stupid... but try putting on your gas cap better. same thing happens to me.

i have replaced 02 censors and map censors and my car is only getting 11 miles per gallon whay can i do to fix this problem 2001 2.7 dodge intrepid

Well, I read on another site that one of the likely causes of the smell is due to operating the AC with the air intake coming from outside. That lets dirty water and such into the system, which in turn becomes stagnant and smelly. So much in fact that its mistaken for body odor.

This makes sense to me so when I read the solution, I tried it and was very successful.

Turn on the AC to maximum, then make sure you set the intake to the outside setting. Then you choose a disinfectant/purifier/deodorizer of your choice, such as lysol, and you spray into the vents(it wasn't specific but I used half a can)on the outside of your vehicle near the wipers. After letting that run for a few minutes(15 or so),change the AC setting to recirculate the air inside your car, and spray(the other half) into the vents.

By the way, It worked great for me and I stopped using the outside are intake.

Idle speed is automaticaly controlled by the computer. If idle speed is not correct, the car has a vacuum leak or a sensor problem.

In the past I have had an engine misfire due to a bad fuel injector.

hope this helps.

Sounds like the transmission fluid is low. You probably have a leak. You should top off the fluid and fix the gasket or where-ever the leak is coming from.

I had this problem once when I had my first car about 20 years ago. Back then, I didn't know how cars worked. It started with small jerks - or acceleration delays when I would press the gas pedal in drive. I didn't know what it was. Day by day, the delays got longer. The car would still drive because the heat of operation would make the fluid expand enough to turn the torque converter. But eventually, it all leaked out and my torque converter burnt out.

I got in the car one fine day, put it in drive and went no-where. The pity was that a guy wanted to buy it for $350. And if it would have worked, I would have almost doubled my money.

It wasn't a huge loss because I bought the car for $175 and had it for 6 months- but it taught me a lesson- learn how cars work, or things like this will happen.

the easy way i found is to hook a battery charger up to the jumper contacts

It doesn't have one. The fuel system is computer controlled with relays.

If the car's computer does not sense the low speed fan relay I have seen the fans run continously. Check in the fuse box on the driver's side of the engine compartment. The inside of the cover will list each of the rlays. Take the low speen relay out and test. Caution the blade oriented 90 degrees to the others is always hot.

You need to have the faults in the transmission read.

p0442 is evaporative emissions medium leak detected p0456 is evaporative emissions small leak detected Both codes are usually caused by cracked vacuum hoses. Normal failure points are under the throttle body, and down by the fuel tank.

It doesn't have a reset switch. The fuel system is computer controled using relays.

The 1996 Dodge Intrepid main bearing torque specification is 180 pounds. The main bearings should be torqued in 60 pound intervals.

Could be heater core is starting to leak

The factory alarm on a Dodge Intrepid can not be disabled. It is part of the engine and body computers. It is reset by unlocking the doors with a key or remote.

If you are facing the front of the car, looking back in towards the passenger compartment, spark 1 is the bottom left cylinder. Spark 2 is the bottom right cylinder. Spark 3 and 5 are in the middle and upper positions on the left side, and spark 4 and 6 are the middle and upper right cylinders.

I always fill mine where the transmission dip stick goes in.

Until it catches fire and burns your house down.

Seriously, they are all different, but usually feature some kind of safety cut-off.

Only the manual for the heater will give you an accurate answer, but I would guess you could leave it plugged in indefinitely provided it is equipped with a thermostat and overheat safety cut-off.

Check for a blown brake light fuse.

Check for a broken or out of adjustment brake light switch.

BLOWER MOTOR RESISTOR BLOCK DESCRIPTION Vehicles with manual air conditioning (non-ATC) systems will have a blower motor resistor block. The resistor block is mounted to the lower right side of the HVAC housing in the passenger compartment, where it can be accessed for service. The blower motor resistor has multiple resistor wires, each of which will change the resistance in the blower motor ground path to change the blower motor speed. The blower motor switch directs the ground path through the correct resistor wire to obtain the selected blower motor speed. The blower motor resistor cannot be repaired and, if faulty or damaged, it must be replaced. OPERATION With the blower motor switch in the lowest speed position the ground path for the motor is applied through all of the resistor wires. Each higher speed selected with the blower motor switch applies the blower motor ground path through fewer of the resistor wires, increasing the blower motor speed. When the blower motor switch is in the highest speed position, the blower motor resistor is bypassed and the blower motor receives a direct path to ground. DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BLOWER MOTOR RESISTOR BLOCK For circuit descriptions and diagrams, (Refer to Appropriate Wiring Information). WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIRBAGS, DISABLE THE AIRBAG SYSTEM BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING WHEEL, STEERING COLUMN, OR INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENT DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. DISCONNECT AND ISOLATE THE BATTERY NEGATIVE (GROUND) CABLE, THEN WAIT TWO MINUTES FOR THE AIRBAG SYSTEM CAPACITOR TO DISCHARGE BEFORE PERFORMING FURTHER DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. THIS IS THE ONLY SURE WAY TO DISABLE THE AIRBAG SYSTEM. FAILURE TO TAKE THE PROPER PRECAUTIONS COULD RESULT IN AN ACCIDENTAL AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL INJURY. (1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. (2) Unplug the wire harness connector from the blower motor resistor. (3) Check for continuity between each of the blower motor switch input terminals of the resistor and the resistor output terminal. In each case there should be continuity. If OK, repair the wire harness circuits between the blower motor switch and the blower motor resistor or blower motor as required. If not OK, replace the faulty blower motor resistor. REMOVAL WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIRBAGS, WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIRBAGS, DISABLE THE AIRBAG SYSTEM BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING WHEEL, STEERING COLUMN, OR INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENT DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. DISCONNECT AND ISOLATE THE BATTERY NEGATIVE (GROUND) CABLE, THEN WAIT TWO MINUTES FOR THE AIRBAG SYSTEM CAPACITOR TO DISCHARGE BEFORE PERFORMING FURTHER DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. THIS IS THE ONLY SURE WAY TO DISABLE THE AIRBAG SYSTEM. FAILURE TO TAKE THE PROPER PRECAUTIONS COULD RESULT IN AN ACCIDENTAL AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL INJURY. (1) Open hood and disconnect the negative battery cable remote terminal from the remote battery post (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/BATTERY SYSTEM/CABLES - REMOVAL). (2) Remove lower right underpanel silencer/duct. (3) Disconnect wiring connector to the blower motor resistor. (4) Remove the blower motor resistor retaining screws. (5) Remove the blower motor resistor from the HVAC housing. INSTALLATION (1) Install the blower motor resistor in the HVAC housing. (2) Install the two screws that secure the blower motor resistor to the HVAC housing and tighten to 2.2 N·m (20 in. lbs.). (3) Plug in the harness connector to the blower motor resistor. (4) Install the lower right underpanel silencer/duct. (5) Connect the negative battery cable remote terminal to the remote battery post(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/BATTERY SYSTEM/CABLES - INSTALLATION).

Right rear corner of the fuel tank

A blown fuse or burned out bulb

take off the radiator and then the harmonic balancer and then take off the two cam shaft/ timing chain covers on the front of the engine and then you replace it with a new one and make sure the belt is positioned on the same teeth as the old one and do not turn the cams!@

Under the dash, inside the ac box, passenger side

Most factory speakers are any any where from 10 - 25 watts RMS. I wouldn't put factory speakers on an amp unless you want to blow them.