Dodge Power Wagon

Not enough info. Need to know the year, model and type of suspension it has, with independent suspension or with link/coil suspension.

Looks like a Havanna Fedora...

The hats that were used in Simon & Simon are wide brimmed Panama hats. The particular style is called an Alto de linha, due to the extremely tight weave of the straw. The hats cost approximately $1,200, since the tighter the weave, the more expensive they get. The older shows featured the hat with a slightly wider brim and less of a pencil roll, later as the show was on for a few years, they moved to a slightly smaller brim with a more pronounced roll in the edge of the brim. I have found it impossible to find a hat in this style that is identical without having it custom made. The gentleman that creates these hats is in Hollywood and can be reached at baronhats.com.

Either on the underside of the hood or in any Chilton or Hayes manual for your vehicle.

Fan shroud first, then alternator, then ac, then there are five bolts surrounding the water pump before removal. Make sure you have thermostat gasket because you will crack it on removal. There are several ways to make this job simpler depending on how much time you have on your hands. Removal of the radiator will save you alot of back breaking and bending. that's only four bolts and the cross member is only two. If you spend 20 bucks on a Chilton's it has step by step removal and replacement.

You will be stirring up a lot of engine gunk by doing this. Make sure you flush the system while you have it all apart. Strongly recommend a new thermostat while you have it all torn apart.

This is a single case O' beer job...per person

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I came on and looked over these answers and was not happy with what I found.

Having just completed the job, here is how I did it. KEEP IN MIND: I have the 8.0 V10 in my Ram 2500.

It is VERY simple, much more so than any other water pump I have dealt with. (Only took three beers, but I'm a slow drinker.) The entire job should not take more than an hour and a half, including tool gathering and clean-up.

You'll need a standard metric socket set with an extension, a prybar, a 5/8 socket, a bucket, a good sized pair of pliers, and a large crescent wrench (1' or more). You will also need some petroleum jelly or similar lubricant. You'll need replacement radiator fluid, too. I'd just flushed my system, so I filtered mine through a washrag and re-used it.

It's common sense, but wait until the engine is cool before doing this job, a bath in hot radiator fluid is not pleasant. Also, be sure to pick up all your tools out of the engine compartment, nothing wrecks your day like having a tool rattle free, catch the fan and go through your radiator. (My Brother-in-law did this, and it was hilarious.)

Drain the radiator into the bucket. Remove radiator cap to get as much out as you can.

First, use the crescent wrench to loosen the nut holding the fan to the water pump. I wedged the prybar between the pulley and pump to keep pulley from turning. (I am not sure the size of this nut since I did not have the wrench for it.)

Be careful if you take fan all the way off to not get it into the radiator.

Then remove the radiator shroud by pulling the four screws. It won't come out yet.

Pull the fan out from between the radiator and the shroud. Then you'll be able to wiggle the shroud out no sweat.

Now use the 5/8 socket to torque the belt tensioner and remove the serpentine belt. (Check it over and replace it if needed.) My truck has the diagram sticker. If yours doesn't sketch it out on the parts box if you think you won't remember how it goes.

Remove the left and right hoses. There will be more fluid in the left one. The top won't come loose yet, so don't worry about it. Just get the clamp out of the way.

Remove all the bolts. The top star bolt is a bit of a pain as the socket gets caught, so do it last.

Now pull the pump loose from the engine and then the top hose.

Make sure there isn't any trash in the hole.

Take the new pump and lubricate where the hoses will attach. Also put some on the O-ring. (Otherwise it won't stay put. You don't want to be tightening the fourth bolt and see the O-ring laying on the ground under the truck.)

Re-attach the top hose. Stick the pump in the hole, make sure the O-ring is in there right. Replace the bolts. The two shorties go on the bottom, and the star on top. Use the tire method so you don't torque it down crooked.

Re-attach the other hoses.

Get the serpentine belt back on.

Wedge the shroud back in.

Slide the fan back in and get the nut started.

Secure the shroud in place.

Tighten the fan nut.

Replace the fluid. Restart engine and let it run a few minutes. Top of the fluid again and refill the spare tank.

How this helps make things easier.

-kieyotie @gmail.com

I just installed a new pick up in my 78, the gap should be set at .008, that is 8 thousands of one inch. You MUST use a non metallic feeler gage, This means brass or copper. If you use a steal gage you will burn out the new pick up, because the pick up is magnetised. Make sure the pick up an the lobes on you distributor are parallel insert you non metallic feeler gage and move the pick up until you get your desired gap. To get the lobes on the distributor parallel you simply turn your fan clockwise while you apply pressure on the alternator belt. NOTE it is much easier to achieve this, if the distributor is out of the vehicle. The .008th gap is for a 318 engine. Good luck!

8,001-9,000 pounds

211 hp

Remove the grill, radiator and everything else in the way including the core support and pull with a short chain and a cherry picker.

unbolt the calipers is it a 1500? you probably have to back off your e-brake shoes they are inside the rotors remove the little rubber cap from the backing plate and with a flat head screwdriver turn the adjuster whilr spinning rotor if it gets tighter go the other way with the adjuster spray penetrating oil around wheel studs and center hole get a large hammer and have at it.theyt can seize up pretty good sometimes.don;t forget to retighten the adjusters until you here a slight drag from the shoes depress and release ebrake pedal and recheck adjustment

Depends on what you want to do with it. I never inspected my frame i just bought mine to lift and beat up on if it lasts me more than a couple of years than i got my money worth. Definitely check out the electrical!

I am in the process of my own rebuild of a 1977 PowerWagon 3/4 ton. definitely change out that intake manifold and swap in a four barrel carb. You'll have to replace the starter with a smaller one if you want to run long tube headers. i plan on lifting mine sometime in the future. I've had to fix a lot including: the dash (lights went out had to sauder some wires back in), starter relay had a lot of problems, starter.

actually there is a kit made by MR. Gasket that lets you adapt the 2BBL intake to a 4BBL intake(seem to remember it being $15). I used one on my 1958 Power Wagon W200 as parts for the 318 Polysphere motor it had are boookooo bucks! i would suggest maybe ordering a new wiring harness and starting from there.

my 1985 Ram has electrical issues, and it's been a pain in my ass tracking them all down because someone wired in a bunch of crap in an amateur way, now corrosion has gotten into those places and caused havoc, plus the fact that it's old and nature has taken a toll. If you stay with the original wiring harness I would definitely get some QD electronic cleaner and disconnect and clean every electrical connection you can find in the truck, then use di-electric grease in the connectors before you re-assemble them, that will help tons! ALSO, check that your engine is correctly grounded to the frame! I cannot stress this one enough, run an auxiliary ground strap from the engine to the frame, it helps a ton, check your body grounds as well. remember the older trucks used the body as a ground for a lot of things, later they got a bit smarter and started running a ground return wire because they figured out that a body ground really wasn't that great not sure if a '77 used a body ground but, I think they stopped doing that in the '60's

A stock half-ton 1977 Dodge Power Wagon should have an NP203 transfer case and a Spicer model 44 front axle. The NP203 is a full-time transfer case with a locking differential in it to allow for a selection between "four-wheel drive" and "all-wheel drive". In other words it would send equal power to the front and rear axles, or divide power between the two axles based on driving conditions. The Spicer 44 front axle is not suppose to have manual locking hubs on it due to the fact that the NP203 transfer case is always sending power to the front axle.

You can get the 2005 DR Manual here:

http://www.hemitruckclub.com/Manuals/2005-DR.zip (176MB)

The 2006 DR Manual here:

http://www.hemitruckclub.com/Manuals/2006-DR.zip (180 MB)

You can get earlier model years here:

http://www.summitvista.com/hemi

And you can get Power Wagon specific info here:

http://powerwagonregistry.org

and

http://trucks.pcwize.com

you can find it in the haynes manual #30040

1-3-4-2 is the correct firing order

no only 78-up

I was told by a Mechanic in KY the cost is $649.87. Seems expensive to me. 2.5 hours labor at $186.42, 16 plugs, plug wires, 3 part injector service for $79.99.

You need what is call a 4-wheel drive axle nut removal tool. You should be able to get this tool from a NAPA store. then remove the dust cap from the rotor. then there will be a set of nuts and bearings remove these keep track of the order you take them out! then you should be able to take the rotor off of the spindle. if you are going to change the rotors i would suggest getting a new set of bearings.

remove the bad cable and put the good one! ;-)

I'm not sure on the front, but I'm sure the rear should be a Dana 60 if it hasn't been changed.

1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2 with 1,3,5,7 on the left bank and 2,4,6,8 on the right. The distributor rotates clockwise.

e short bed is 6.5 feet inside.

A person can find a 1983 Dodge RamCharger Power window wiring diagram in the cars maintenance manual. They can also find it located in the repair manual.Ê

The dodge D100,150,200,250,300,350 are all medium/heavy duty trucks which were produced as 2wd trucks, the power wagon badge was placed on those d100-350 trucks which came with 4x4 or full time 4x4.

short bed 6,111 lbs

the difference is the powerwagon hood emblem,dodge trucks in those years73-79, mixed and macthed most of the drivetrain components,body parts,similar to the dusters,darts,demons and valliants,and many other mopar examples in the 70s,although some p/ws came with hp 440s,they are few and far between....[same difference between a satelite being cloned into a gtx or roadrunner]