Dodge Ram

There can be any number of things that cause the problem. Plugs fouled, plug wires bad, Distributor worn or cracked, timing off, air filter clogged or air system problems. Bad fuel injectors or a clogged fuel filter. Vacuum lines off or cracked. Something else. Check the air handler tube system from the filter to the intake manifold. On the underside of mine a small hole had burned through from the exhaust.Idle was off and mileage bad. Its not just a simple, Do This, and its fixed. Its a whole package of things to try. Some can be seen on an analyzer at a shop but most are just down to basics testing and replacing of bad or dirty parts.

The cowl, is the area the wipers are in.

can rangerover rim fit a dodgeram truck

10-20 depending on driving habits.

10-20 depending on driving habits.

If the front wheels are on a tow dolly, the rear shaft will need disconnected.

If the front wheels are on a tow dolly, the rear shaft will need disconnected.

It depends on the year. from 2003 to about 2005 they used 5w30. After that they used 5w20.

If you need lots of cab space, it is a great truck

The 'mega' cab is awesome! It adds about another 8-10" of back seat room to their existing 4 door truck design....and a MUCH NEEDED 10" or so!

No, the 1996 has an electric governer. While the 1994 has a hydrauilc governer.

5 quarts

The crank position sensor is located on the engine block and passes between the block and the bell housing at about the 10 o´clock position as viewed from the front of the vehicle. The sensor extends down into the bellhousing to read notches in a disc mounted just ahead of the torque converter.

The alternator is over/under charging.

If you have the 3.3 liter, pop the hood and it will be located on the transmission on the passengers side. Look for a little pigtail running from the transmission. There it is.

"All cars are not created Equal" You need to BClear. What do you have? I have a 1984 chev 1/2 ton 4 wheel drive.

Go remove and clean both battery terminal connections and then reconnect them and make them tight. The connections you have now are withdrawing enough current to light the lights but not enough to start your van. Make sure you clean them well, both the posts and the inside of the cables and you can use dilectric grease to keep them from corroding. Answer 1 is correct, but incomplete. From your description of symptoms, I doubt there is anything wrong with your ignition control module neutral safety switch, as even if it were defective it would not cause the symptoms you describe. For the symptoms you describe I can think of only two causes: 1) a low or weak battery, which your "...all other power is working..." pretty well eliminates, or 2) a high resistance fault in the wiring between the battery and the solenoid, including internal to the solenoid itself. If after cleaning the battery terminal posts and connectors the problem still remains, there are SOME OTHER possible causes and related fixes. First, it is possible that the connections/connectors at the OTHER END OF THOSE CABLES are corroded causing the same symptoms. The correction for this is the same as in Answer 1. Next, although it does not happen often, corrosion could have occured inside the crimped on terminal connector(s) on the battery cable ends, which would not be easily observed, and cannot be repaired, requiring replacement of the cable(s). Finally, there could be internal defects in the starter solenoid which could result in the same symptoms, and is usually best corrected by replacing the solenoid. j3h. It is possible that the battery may have one or more bad cells and that it will test good voltage wise it may not have enough amps to fully engage the starter causing the click sound. Have the battery tested at a parts store.

It wasn't built with one.

350 hp from the factory stock

Depends on the year, newer vehicles have more than one ignition and accessory wire. Not to mention anti-theft immobilizers, which make it impossible to hotwire without the correct resistance or RF code. Not only that, but transmissions and other parts can be damaged without 2nd ignition powered. All you have to do though is splice a constant 12V+ wire to all ignition leads and to the starter wire. I recommend using a DMM to test which wires are which. 12 volt.com offers free wiring color codes, check that site. Hot wiring a car in 10 seconds like in the movies is impossible.

driver side of the motor towards the firewall. It is a UFO shaped object with 3 hoses coming out of it and an electrical connector.

Yes, under the dash drive side.

Auto is a 48 RE

manual is a G56

first up i would check to make sure all plug wires are installed to the correct plugs 2 wires swapped to out of sequence plugs will cause this misfire

Looking at the front of the engine, the MAP Sensor on a 2006 Doge Ram 1500 is located is just to the right of the EFI or Electronic Fuel Ignition (what used to be the carburetor). There are two sensors located here plugged into the EFI. The MAP Sensor is the second one in from the front.

5 x 5.5 inches or 5 x 139.7 mm standard offset

YES

As long as the flexplate is the same size or has additional mounting holes.

To add to this answer in depth. i changed from a 350 to a 454. the 454 had a th400 transmission and the 350 had a th350 transmission. (This was a 4x4 so we had to use the th350 transmission because it had a married transfer case)the th400 flywheel did NOT match the th350 torque converter. We installed the th400 converter and it fit perfect in the th350 transmission. I would make sure torque converter bolts to flywheel and as well fits into trasmission before attempting to install in vehicle. It is a huge pain to make the swap half way through the install.