where can i find head gasket 2.0 diesel

roughly about 4 quarts

Check Related Link below.

It shows you a picture too.

That's not a question. Try asking"Why won't my ford escort start?"

Start trying to isolate the problem. Find out whether it's getting fuel and spark. Narrow it down a little at a time until you find the problem, THEN replace the part. Don't just throw parts at it.

You will have to take it to an automotive radio dealer or the Ford dealer. It locks up when the power is discontinued to prevent motivation for low lifes to steal it. There is a code that has to been put into it. Did you just recently change the battery?

From 1984 to 1987, U.S. Ford made a diesel engine available in the Escort as an answer to the energy price shocks of the 1970s and 1980s. A 2.0L overhead cam engine designed by Mazda of Japan was used in conjunction with a standard 5-speed manual transaxle (no automatic was offered). This engine is noted for its durability and great gas mileage (45 to 50 MPG). The same engine (and transmission) was offered in Ford Tempo and Mercury Topaz cars, in the US, during this period. According to the Wikipedia article on Mazda Diesel Engines, the 2.0 L (1998 cc) diesel engine was designated "RF."

you may want to try this: - remove the center cover (horn switch)(im not so familiar the names of the parts) of your steering wheel by removing the screws underneath. - remove the steering wheel. You may use your cross tire wrench to remove the nut that holds the steering wheel. pull-off the steering wheel. - unscrew the plastic covers of the steering rod/tube. - disconnect the snap-in connection of the electrical wirings of the ignition switch - unscrew the holder (metal belt) of the ignition barrel. - an ordinary locksmith can fix your ignition switch.

Make your own! I use a large piece of cardboard to make a template, get inside van and do bulkhead first, then sides then floor. Cut the ply slightly larger than you need then trim down to look smooth edged with a plane on the edge. You can hold left and right sides together to make symmetrical, on mine I had to make an extra cut to allow for fuel fillerpipe on inside of van. Screw in with self tappers or nuts and bolts whatever works. You can use beading at corners and or joints, although I have it down to a fine art now and job looks neat if you are careful. ~I also clean inside van cargo bay first and waxoyl too, before ply lining. Sides and bulkhead are twice the thickness of sides which must bend to fit bend in van panels. Good luck.

This is actually quite a difficult question to answer online as you have not specified any details so I will just list the most common problems with cars in general not starting... 1) if your going from driving stick to automatic, the biggest issue is that we sometimes forget that automatics have to be put in park... make sure the car is in park when you start the car.

2) battery dead? 3) alternator dead?

To remove the dashboard on an Escort Diesel van, remove the steering column cover. Next locate all of the bolts holding the dashboard on and remove them carefully.

Absolutely, and here's why: No fleet can run ONLY diesel engines. There is going to be a gas engine in the mix somewhere--it doesn't matter if it's in a company car, the parts-hauler pickup, a generator, a trash pump...whatever. Fleets don't want to keep two different kinds of oil on hand; it's a waste of money, and there's always the possibility someone will forget to order oil and have to put a gallon of the wrong oil into an engine. So...the two most popular heavy duty oils in the US, Shell Rotella T and Chevron Delo 400, are certified for use in gasoline and diesel engines. If you've got an old aircooled VW, I think you should always run diesel engine oil in it--diesel engine oil is made for service in very hot-running engines, which aircooled VWs are. If it is the correct viscosity (ie 5w30 etc.) then you are fine.

41mm

Battery is located in the trunk.

you cannot remove it. it is all in one with the receiver frame