Ford Escort LX

yes the balance damper will be the same

The 1996 Ford Escort had a self-adjusting system. If pushing on the pedal will not solve the problem, you are most likely going to need to change the ratchet system in the pedal.

both marks are at 12:00 very simple alignment. replace both belt tensioner and water pump, when replacing the belt, parts are $105.00 with tax at advanced auto parts. price date is 01/06/2012

I would run a diagnostic for trouble codes. Just because your check / service engine isn't coming doesn't mean that something isn't wrong. If you don't have the knowledge or tools needed to do so, please take you car to a repair shop. Because a vehicle speed sensor and eec (the main computer) shouldn't continuously go bad. Actually you should not have to replace the EEC at all.

This is better left to the professional who knows the ins and outs of swimming pool lighting , GFCI's and codes in your area. He will also know which best fits and is compatible with the current housing or nitch. He will also know how long of a cord to order with the new light fixture. Code may also require that there be update modifications done to the conduit and location of the GFCI box.

Ken

ok if you can you can open the bleeder valve on the cylinder and carefully pry the cylinder back into the callipar. you will have to bleed your brakes afterwards.

the horn should be hooked up to a relay, horns generaly require to much current for a fuse

air idle controller solonoid very simple i just unlugged mine and it idles like its carburated till it warms up

you can not it is controled by the computer if you are having problems with it idle low or stalling on you at the traffic light with the ac on or idle funny what you can try is cleaning the throttle body to do this get your self a can of brake cleaner and some cotton rags. take the air breather off the throttle body and spray brake cleaner on the rag and find a screw driver or something to help you hold that goldish flap called a butterfly open and wipe the black residue off and you can spray some brake cleaner in there but not a whole bunch and clean it up the best you can and that will help it idle better. don't worry if your truck is harder to start the first time you fire it up after you clean it that is normal. if that dose not fix it do a tune up on it and if you do? do not buy any spark plug other that ac delco that is what gm puts in if you put a diffrent brand in there you are asking for trouble and if you do it your self just tell the person looking up the parts for you that you want what the factory calls for. hope this helps

== == Probably computer controlled and not adjustable Probably computer controlled and not adjustable

between 47 and 54

Try looking on the fire wall in engine compartment on passenger side hope this helps.

Front: 6.5"

Back: 5" x 7"

PCV valve should be on bottom right side of motor. to the right of the last spark plug. Pull it out with car off. It comes out with a hose on it. Insert new PCV valve into hose. Insert PCV into open hole.

It should be very obvious if you look at the new one and the one in the car. Actually I've only changed a few because I've never actually seen a bad one. A bit dirty maybe and worth a cleaning, but actually bad? Never. I'd try spraying it with some carb cleaner while the engine is running, it should clean right up.

Btw, who told you it was bad? I'm guessing a smog tech? Those weazles, they make a lot of money changing little things like that and they'll stop a smog test hoping you'll say; "Ok, just fix it". I hate mechanics like that...

there ain none but u can get it done on eBay for 1 pound

Well, both the wipers and the blower could have a burned out fuse. Of course, they both could have a burned out motor. I would run a hot wire from the battery to the wipers and the blower motor. If they worked, I'd be looking for a fuse or bad switch.

No , the 1999 Ford escort wagon is SOHC according to my Consumer Guide

book

The CCRM is a set of relays in the same box. The relays control the radiator cooling fan, the PCM, the fuel pump and the A/C compressor. Pre-97 Escorts had separate relays on the above functions. Starting in 97 continuing through 2002 they put all the relays in one box.

you have to take the alternator off and put the one you bought from the store on and start it and if it freezes you have to take it back

I did this myself a few weeks ago. I also strongly recommend using a spray cleaner and rags or a hose to clean the gunk and grease off the Alt. It's shot, yah don't have to worry about getting the insides dirty! Besides, when yah take it back and they open the box to look at it you can cheekily say yah cleaned it off for them! 1: Disconnect negative terminal on battery-this is a rule or you'll suffer a blown diode in the alt. when you plug one of the wires back in. Then you'll have $90 bucks of scrap metal. :-) 2: Put a 3/8" breaker bar or ratchet into the square hole on the tensioner and pull to front of car to loosen and remove belt or shove out of way then ease it back. 3: Remove the a/c hose bracket from the top of Alt. bracket. Tip: You may need to also unbolt the a/c hoses from the strut tower to wiggle them around for more room. 4: disconnect the electrical wires from the Alt. Two use those stupid little snap connectors, use a small screwdiver and carefully ease them off. The main one uses a small nut, that's another reason to disconnect the battery since that's a positive connection! :-) 5: (Very Important) Unbolt the Power Steering reservoir and try to shove it aside a few inches. I didn't do this, bolts were extremly rusty and afraid of breaking them I skipped this step. It was the cause of much cursing and swearing later since the wiggle room was then extremly limited, almost impossible. It was 50 degrees out tho, so that kinda kept me warm for awhile....:-) 6: Loosen, then remove the top and bottom mounting bolts. The bottom fastener has a sliding nut built into the Alt. bracket, I think mine was stuck in place so was the cause for some warm up cursing before trying to actually get the Alt. to slip up and out. :-) You may want something handy to pry the Alt. up and out. 7: If your lucky then you can grab the A/C hoses with your right hand and ease them aside as you use your left hand on the pulley to lift the Alt. up and out like that stupid picture in the haynes book. If not, your gonna be swearing a lot, especially if you didn't clean the gunk off and yah can't get a grip on the darn thing. :-) 8: Clean your hands off, your gonna need a break anyways. :-) 9: Now you can re-install everything in reverse order or any order you want, just connect the battery terminal last.

OOps forgot to add, this is for a 93 escort with 1,9 Liter engine. According to Haynes, the 1.8L alt. is mounted lower and after loosening bolts yah need to jack car up and remove a splash shield to remove the lower bolt, then remove Alt. 2.0L engines (coupe) need the coolant reservoir removed for wiggle room. 2.0L wagons and sedans, you need to free the Oxygen Sensor wiring harness from it's retainer on mounting bracket and unbolt power steering and A/C hose brackets from top of Alt. bracket, then remove mounting bolts.

In 5: above, in addition to unbolting the power steering reservoir, in the '94 Escort you should also remove the radiator overflow tank. Located to the left of the power steering reservoir, Two bolts attache it to the firewall. Removing the radiator overflow tank lets you move the power steering reservoir completely out of the way, allowing the alternator to be easily removed and then re-installed.

It is in the owners manual. If you don't have one get one from MOTORLIT.COM

Not to be flip, but this job sucks. It's the only major engineering beef (with lots of cursing) I've had with Ford after having 3 of these cars. I've done it 3 times to avoid paying $600 at the local shop for the job.

If you're handy, any of the Haynes-type books might be adequate, and maybe more detailed diagrams are available (I haven't looked). The job will take you hours -- you have to disassemble the entire front of the passenger cabin ("dashboard" on down). This has to rank way up there as one of the most ludicrously designed assemblies in auto history.

Brakes.

It is about 18 inches from the floorboard on the pass side firewall inside the cab.

Do you mean the wiring harness? All the wiring on the Escort? First you take all the wires off under the hood and feed them back through the firewall to under the dash. Then you disconnect all of the wiring in the car which feeds back into under the dash.

Then, you take the 2 harnesses apart under the dash. It's about an 8 hour job and if done at the dealers it will be fairly expensive.