Ford Escort LX

I have a 2001 Frontier 2wd and it is located underneath the blower fan and motor. The blower fan and motor can be acessed by removing about four Phillips screws and the two other phlips screws that hold the glove box latch onto the dashboard. After the glove box is removed you will see the blower motor. Remove the 3 screws holding the motor to the housing. Now you will see the resistor bock card. It is held in place by two silver Philips screws. Remove both wiring harnesses that go to the motor and to the resistor block before removing screws. Press the connnector tab in first to remove connector before removing screws. Good Luck!

when ford assembled the car they put the drum on and then put a crimp at the edge of all the lug bolts. take a wire brush and clean around the lugs right at the drum and you will see where the threads are pinched, by doing this the miss shaped metal holds the drum tight on the axle, use a grinder or a file to remove the burrs and the drum can be removed with a mall, be careful not to damage the lugs to much when doing this.

afshar13@yahoo.com

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Click on Owner Guides

The owners manual can be viewed on-line

For my 94 escort the only way to add or check the fluid level is by removing the speedometer cable and gear plug. This cable/gear plug is fed into the transmission between the engine and firewall. Remove 10mm hex head screw. slide out the retaining U, then carfully twist back and forth to loosen and pull up. These buggers can really stick sometimes but do NOT use a prybar. You may endup cracking the thin aluminum cast wall of your transmission. The previous owner of my 94 was a certified idiot as he or his predicessor crack the wall of the one i picked up. Not exactly something your looking for when buying a car. If you have this problem dremel the crack and jbweld it to reduce the leak.

good luck

its really not that hard,just tight.first jack up the front of the car and put it on jackstands.there are three bolts and two wires,two bolts and the wires you can take off from under the car they are not that difficult,there is one bolt you take out from the top it is in a real tight spot but with a little patience you will get it out. i was very inexperienced at this and it took me about two hours to do this job.

Check for a vacuum leak.

Is the air conditioning turned on when this is happening? If so there is an air bleed screw/knob that needs to be adjusted (turned in or out) with the A/C turned on to decrease (turn clockwise) the amount of air that is bled into the intake manifold when the A/C is on.

It may also be a bad coolant temp sensor or as mentioned above you may have an air leak.

Is the "service engine soon" light on when the engine is running? If it is then you need to get someone (or yourself) to retrieve the code(s) from the ECU (computer in the car) as that may/will tell you what is not working properly. A Repair manual like Haynes or Chiltons will tell you how to jumper the diagnostic box under the hood so that with the ignition key turned on, will then allow you to retrieve the Diagnostic Codes.

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I have a '92 Paseo, M/T, it has well over 200K miles... and predictably, some issues with idle.

My troubleshooting here is for a M/T model. If yours is an auto, you may need to troubleshoot the throttle opener module for those cars. You'll need to consult a Toyota or Chilton's service manual for how-to.

On a M/T '92, low or rough idle is much more common than high idle. Unless you've been messing with the idle screw atop the intake manifold, it doesn't just creep up on its own. However, there's one cause of high idle that IS very common: the infamous IACV (Idle Air Control Valve). Even so, it usually prevents the car from starting, rather than causes high idle. But since it's easiest, let's fix and rule this out.

The IACV is a thermally-operated valve that opens and raises idle when the engine is cold, to speed warming of the engine and catalyst. Set correctly, it should top out at 1500 rpm, and as coolant via hoses warms the bimetallic spring inside the IACV, it'll close, slowly bringing idle down to a normal 750 rpm, fully warm.

When they fail, they usually fail fully-open, or fully-closed; yours may have failed fully-open. Here's how to fix it...

-- engine cold and off

-- remove the intake air hose clamps (for the big black hose connecting air filter box and throttle body). Remove the side hose going to the valve cover, and set aside.

-- On the floor of the TB, outside the brass throttle plate, is a big hole about 7 o'clock. This is the air bypass port for the IACV. Spray carb cleaner all around in it, for a few seconds (don't go too crazy, though). Let set for a few minutes, repeat once.

-- while you're in here, get an old toothbrush, and spray the throttle plate with cleaner, and scrub off the dirt and crap on it (open the bellcrank to clean the inside of the plate, too). This can improve response, power and mileage, if the buildup is bad enough. Wipe off any excess cleaner.

-- Reinstall the air hose. There are two arrows on the hose that line up with arrows and marks on the TB and air filter box -- make sure they line up, or when the engine rocks, it can damage a poorly-installed hose.

-- Get in the car, and start the engine WOT. This is to allow air to get in and cut the fumes from the cleaner; otherwise it won't start. You may need to crank for a few seconds to get it to catch. Several cranks at a few seconds each, are better than one long one; save your battery.

-- Is idle still high? If not, your IACV was stuck open; should be better now. If so, shut off engine and go on to the next adjustment... you'll need an inductive tachometer for this one -- can't use the car's tach unless you have no other choice.

-- Get a big paper clip. This is your jumper wire. Look next to the fuse box in the engine compartment (next to the air filter box) for a small brown box; this is your diagnostic port. On the inside of the cover, look for the location of TE1 and E1 connectors.

-- Start engine cold, and rev to 2500 rpm for two mins. You need the engine warm enough to completely close the IACV, but not hot enough to kick on the cooling fan.

-- When the engine it warmed, go to the diag port and jump TE1 and E1. The idle should change and a clicking sound should be distinctly audible. This is normal.

-- Take a blade screwdriver and twirl the idle screw atop the intake manifold, above the TB under the rubber plug, until the tach shows 750 rpm.

-- Remove the paper clip when done, close the diag port cover and remove the tach. Go for a test drive. If it's still too high, consult a service manual.

The unfortunate thing about accidents in parking lots is that they are usually deemed 50/50 fault in most cases, without consideration of the facts. Your best bet is to have a witness, video surveillance, or security staff who witnessed the incident to testify in writing on your behalf if you truly believe you are not at fault. Your insurer will have no choice but to ammend your policy to reflect as such.

It is the international system of units (systeme internationale, in French whence the initials).

The PCM is located under the console towards the dash. Take console out.

there are 2 flasher cans in vehicle.one operates hazards and the other operates the blinkers. change the one that operates the blinkers and your blinkers will work

it is essentially a tiny radiator. hot coolant goes in and heats up the fins in the heater core and your fan blows air through the heater core thus heating up the air and you.

It sounds like it needs tuning like a fine violin needs tuning to play a beautiful tune

You have to have a tool from Ford. But.....if you take two (2) small pieces of wire and notch the ends (kind of like a barb on a fish hook only duller not sharp) you can slide them in and unlock the radio. once you feel the notches lock, just pull it out.

A misfire can be caused by a number of items. Almost all of which are electrical. I would suggest starting with the basics.

1) Can you isolate it to one cylinder? If so replace that spark plug and wire

2) If not I'd start with the cap, rotor, and plugs on all cylinders

A useful diagnostic I've found valuable is to mix up a soapy solution in a spray bottle and in the evening with no lights on start the car and see if you see any sparks. Normal operation should produce none. However, if you're misfiring you may see them at night. Make sure the hood light is off and you have no light coming on the engine. It'll be obvious if its a large issue. If that produced no results then take the spray bottle and spray the wires while the engine is running. You'll see a little electrical show if there is a spark issue.

Good luck..

Beyond that you'll be getting into timing issues on this car/engine and possibly valve items. All of which are much more expensive.

heat! heat! heat! causes a rotor to warp 95% of the time. Little to now rust buildup in the vent area of the rotor, need a good pasage for air movement. rusty and flaking rust are no good! New calipers, brake flush, new rotors, clean flat surface free of rust buildup on the spindle area. All very important.

Under the dash in the center.

When it cracks out (most common failure) it has to be replaced. It's between the engine and the transmission which must come out to get to it.

look in the fuse panel inside the engine compartment there should be a white plastic piece on top of it.take that off ans you should see it i think it s a 50 amp cant remember.

The main fuse on the Probe is a 100amp fuse.

If it's stuck.......what the hell do you do???

Its not stuck, but screwed in on the lower side of box housing. There are flip up flaps u can access.

You don't. It is computer controlled. There is a component called the IAC (Idle Air Control) that adjusts the idle depending on how much of a load the engine is under and other things that affect the idle. It can be cleaned or replaced if you are having idle problems.

Location-----It is located on top of the engine on the top of the throttle body. It looks like a little motor about the size of a spool of thread with some wires attached to it. You can take it off by taking the 2 screws out of the top. It takes an 8 mm wrench or socket. Spray it with some carburetor cleaner and let it dry. Then oil it with any kind of oil that you have.

How it works---When the engine is idleing the IAC lets extra air into the engine to compensate for whatever load is is under. Extra load could be the air conditioning or

the alternator being under a load.

Where can I get one?----You can get the IAC at most auto parts stores. They cost about $65 and most places can get you one overnight.

You can find your fuel pump relay behind your center console, passenger side. You may have to remove the tray to gain full access

On the top of the transmission case, close to the passenger side mount.

The 2002 Ford Escort owners manual shows : For the 2.0 L - SOHC - 4 cylinder Motorcraft SAE 5 W 20 Pemium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil and The Motorcraft FL - 400 - S oil filter

If your starter motor is not turning you could try spraying a load of WD-40 into it, but if this does work (and there's no guarantee) it won't work for long. You probably need a replacement. Try an automobile wrecker for a second hand one rarther than buying a brand new one. It will cost you only about 25% of the price of a brand new one.

could be a bad plug