Ford Escort LX

PCV valve should be on bottom right side of motor. to the right of the last spark plug. Pull it out with car off. It comes out with a hose on it. Insert new PCV valve into hose. Insert PCV into open hole.

It should be very obvious if you look at the new one and the one in the car. Actually I've only changed a few because I've never actually seen a bad one. A bit dirty maybe and worth a cleaning, but actually bad? Never. I'd try spraying it with some carb cleaner while the engine is running, it should clean right up.

Btw, who told you it was bad? I'm guessing a smog tech? Those weazles, they make a lot of money changing little things like that and they'll stop a smog test hoping you'll say; "Ok, just fix it". I hate mechanics like that...

there ain none but u can get it done on eBay for 1 pound

Well, both the wipers and the blower could have a burned out fuse. Of course, they both could have a burned out motor. I would run a hot wire from the battery to the wipers and the blower motor. If they worked, I'd be looking for a fuse or bad switch.

No , the 1999 Ford escort wagon is SOHC according to my Consumer Guide

book

The CCRM is a set of relays in the same box. The relays control the radiator cooling fan, the PCM, the fuel pump and the A/C compressor. Pre-97 Escorts had separate relays on the above functions. Starting in 97 continuing through 2002 they put all the relays in one box.

you have to take the alternator off and put the one you bought from the store on and start it and if it freezes you have to take it back

I did this myself a few weeks ago. I also strongly recommend using a spray cleaner and rags or a hose to clean the gunk and grease off the Alt. It's shot, yah don't have to worry about getting the insides dirty! Besides, when yah take it back and they open the box to look at it you can cheekily say yah cleaned it off for them! 1: Disconnect negative terminal on battery-this is a rule or you'll suffer a blown diode in the alt. when you plug one of the wires back in. Then you'll have $90 bucks of scrap metal. :-) 2: Put a 3/8" breaker bar or ratchet into the square hole on the tensioner and pull to front of car to loosen and remove belt or shove out of way then ease it back. 3: Remove the a/c hose bracket from the top of Alt. bracket. Tip: You may need to also unbolt the a/c hoses from the strut tower to wiggle them around for more room. 4: disconnect the electrical wires from the Alt. Two use those stupid little snap connectors, use a small screwdiver and carefully ease them off. The main one uses a small nut, that's another reason to disconnect the battery since that's a positive connection! :-) 5: (Very Important) Unbolt the Power Steering reservoir and try to shove it aside a few inches. I didn't do this, bolts were extremly rusty and afraid of breaking them I skipped this step. It was the cause of much cursing and swearing later since the wiggle room was then extremly limited, almost impossible. It was 50 degrees out tho, so that kinda kept me warm for awhile....:-) 6: Loosen, then remove the top and bottom mounting bolts. The bottom fastener has a sliding nut built into the Alt. bracket, I think mine was stuck in place so was the cause for some warm up cursing before trying to actually get the Alt. to slip up and out. :-) You may want something handy to pry the Alt. up and out. 7: If your lucky then you can grab the A/C hoses with your right hand and ease them aside as you use your left hand on the pulley to lift the Alt. up and out like that stupid picture in the haynes book. If not, your gonna be swearing a lot, especially if you didn't clean the gunk off and yah can't get a grip on the darn thing. :-) 8: Clean your hands off, your gonna need a break anyways. :-) 9: Now you can re-install everything in reverse order or any order you want, just connect the battery terminal last.

OOps forgot to add, this is for a 93 escort with 1,9 Liter engine. According to Haynes, the 1.8L alt. is mounted lower and after loosening bolts yah need to jack car up and remove a splash shield to remove the lower bolt, then remove Alt. 2.0L engines (coupe) need the coolant reservoir removed for wiggle room. 2.0L wagons and sedans, you need to free the Oxygen Sensor wiring harness from it's retainer on mounting bracket and unbolt power steering and A/C hose brackets from top of Alt. bracket, then remove mounting bolts.

In 5: above, in addition to unbolting the power steering reservoir, in the '94 Escort you should also remove the radiator overflow tank. Located to the left of the power steering reservoir, Two bolts attache it to the firewall. Removing the radiator overflow tank lets you move the power steering reservoir completely out of the way, allowing the alternator to be easily removed and then re-installed.

It is in the owners manual. If you don't have one get one from MOTORLIT.COM

Not to be flip, but this job sucks. It's the only major engineering beef (with lots of cursing) I've had with Ford after having 3 of these cars. I've done it 3 times to avoid paying $600 at the local shop for the job.

If you're handy, any of the Haynes-type books might be adequate, and maybe more detailed diagrams are available (I haven't looked). The job will take you hours -- you have to disassemble the entire front of the passenger cabin ("dashboard" on down). This has to rank way up there as one of the most ludicrously designed assemblies in auto history.

Brakes.

It is about 18 inches from the floorboard on the pass side firewall inside the cab.

Do you mean the wiring harness? All the wiring on the Escort? First you take all the wires off under the hood and feed them back through the firewall to under the dash. Then you disconnect all of the wiring in the car which feeds back into under the dash.

Then, you take the 2 harnesses apart under the dash. It's about an 8 hour job and if done at the dealers it will be fairly expensive.

It should be around or close to the 02 sensor. Check for a part dangling by a wiring and connector.

The p1443 code means a problem with the evaporative emissions system. There could be a problem with a broken or unhooked vacuum hose. Also could be a problem with the solenoid or sensor between throttle body and evaporative canister.

yes it has something to do with the alternator.. first you lose your lights, radio and all electrical items lUcky for me it was my bolts were loose it was only connected by one bolt..My mechaic tightened it and told me to go back and get my money back. I didn't need a new one.

Get some one else to do it

Idle is computer controlled by the pcm (computer)-not adjustable.

The order they go in are green, yellow, yellow, brown/white, black/pink, yellow/black, brown. I found another 1991 sunbird with the same distributor at a junkyard, that's how I found out.

There could be many reasons why there is not spark in a car. The battery could be dead, the wiring could be bad, or the alternator or solenoid could be bad.

According to the 1998 Ford Escort Owner Guide :

With engine oil filter change :

The 2.0 liter four cylinder engine in the wagon and sedan takes :

( 3.8 liters / 4.0 U.S. quarts of 5W-30 )

I vehicle is not overheating don't panic, though if you have a thermo fan, you could have it adjusted to come on at a lower heat setting.

It's on the firewall on the passenger side.

The most things that could make it sputter are: spark plugs, spark plug wires, plugged fuel filter, plugged air cleaner filter, faulty egr, vacuum leaks or bad PCV valve

To check your fuse box for a test fuse left in, first turn off the main power supply for safety. Open the fuse box and visually inspect each fuse for any that appear different or have a label indicating they are test fuses. If you find one, carefully remove it and replace it with a standard fuse if necessary. Afterward, close the fuse box and restore power to ensure everything is functioning properly.