Ford Escort LX

Do you mean the wiring harness? All the wiring on the Escort? First you take all the wires off under the hood and feed them back through the firewall to under the dash. Then you disconnect all of the wiring in the car which feeds back into under the dash.

Then, you take the 2 harnesses apart under the dash. It's about an 8 hour job and if done at the dealers it will be fairly expensive.

The p1443 code means a problem with the evaporative emissions system. There could be a problem with a broken or unhooked vacuum hose. Also could be a problem with the solenoid or sensor between throttle body and evaporative canister.

yes it has something to do with the alternator.. first you lose your lights, radio and all electrical items lUcky for me it was my bolts were loose it was only connected by one bolt..My mechaic tightened it and told me to go back and get my money back. I didn't need a new one.

Get some one else to do it

Idle is computer controlled by the pcm (computer)-not adjustable.

The order they go in are green, yellow, yellow, brown/white, black/pink, yellow/black, brown. I found another 1991 sunbird with the same distributor at a junkyard, that's how I found out.

There could be many reasons why there is not spark in a car. The battery could be dead, the wiring could be bad, or the alternator or solenoid could be bad.

According to the 1998 Ford Escort Owner Guide :

With engine oil filter change :

The 2.0 liter four cylinder engine in the wagon and sedan takes :

( 3.8 liters / 4.0 U.S. quarts of 5W-30 )

I vehicle is not overheating don't panic, though if you have a thermo fan, you could have it adjusted to come on at a lower heat setting.

It's on the firewall on the passenger side.

The most things that could make it sputter are: spark plugs, spark plug wires, plugged fuel filter, plugged air cleaner filter, faulty egr, vacuum leaks or bad PCV valve

This information is listed in your owner's manual. Don't have one, get one. Dealer, salvage yard, e-bay, Google Search.

LOL! Depends on how long you want the transmission to last!!!!

I wouldn't do it - they're very expensive and kinda 'weak'

may eed a tunup

According to the 1997 Ford Escort Owner Guide :

With engine oil filter change :

The 2.0 liter SPI four cylinder engine takes :

( 4.0 U.S. quarts of 5W-30 )

Check the Vehicle Emissions Control Information ( VECI ) decal located in the

front of the engine compartment ( it will show the type of spark plugs to use

and the spark plug gap )

I just had to do this on my own car. If you pull the carpeting back away from the corner of the trunk there are two or three small nuts that you have to remove. Then the light housing pulls out from the outside of the car. From there just remove the bulb, replace, and re-install. Just as a side note I broke one of the clips that holds the carpeting when I removed it so be careful.

The shift interlock release is on the side of the console. Take the plug out and insert a key into the opening. Then, shift out of park and start the car.

For a 1999 Ford Escort ( in North America )

Depending on the model it either has the 2.0 liter Single Over Head Cam

four cylinder engine or the 2.0 Zetec Dual Over Head Cam

It doesn't have it's own sensor. It recirculates exhaust gas according to the engine temperature and 02 sensor.

THE REAR WINDOW IS HELD IN BY THE RUBBER SEAL. REMOVE ANY TRIM NEEDED TO GET TO THE RUBBER SEAL. START TO WORK THE SEAL OUT BY PUSHING OUTWARD ON THE WINDOW AND LIFTING THE EDGE OF THE SEAL THE WINDOW WILL START TO COME OUT. ONCE OUT REMOVE THE SEAL FROM THE WINDOW IF YOU PLAN TO REUSE IT. IT JUST PULLS OFF THE EDGE AND INSTALLS THE ON THE NEW ONE WITH NO PROBLEM. INTALLATION CAN BE A LITTLE MORE TRICKY IF YOU ARE WORKING SOLO. SO IT WOULD BE BEST TO GET A BUDDY TO HELP YOU. IN THE RUBBER SEAL THERE IS A CHANNEL WHERE THE IT ACTUALLY OVERLAPS TO MAKE THE SEAL ONCE ON THE TRUCK. IN THIS CHANNEL YOU WILL NEED SOME CLOTHES LINE OR SMALL ROPE. PUT THE ROPE IN THE CHANNEL ALL THE WAY AROUND LEAVING ABOUT TWO FEET OF ROPE OUT ON EACH END OF THE ROPE SO YOU HAVE SOE THING TO GET AHOLD OF. SET THE WINDOW ON THE LIPSTARTING THE RUBBER. HAVE YOUR BUDDY PUSH IN SLIGHTLY AS YOU PULL THE END OF THE ROPE YOU CAN PULL EITHER ONE AS YOU PULL THE ROPE YOU WILL SEE IT PULLING THE RUBBER SEAL BACK OVER THE LIP OF THE TRUCK. WORK IT ALL THE WAY AROUND AND YOU ARE IN BUSINESS. SOMETIMES YOU CAN ALSO USE SOME DISH SOAP TO LUBE IT UP IF YOU HAVE TROUBLE BUT YOU SHOULDNT NEED ANY. HOPE THIS HELPS ANSWER YOUR QUESTION. I HAVE BEEN IN THE BODY BUSINESS FOR ABOUT 16 YEARS AND THIS IS A EASY FIX. ANYWAY GOD BLESS AND GOOD LUCK!

Well I happen to have changed mine on my 93 GT yesterday. Not an easy task for someone with very little tools, I tell you. But after about 3 hours of work I got it done. Let me know if you have a GT or an LX. The process is different for both. I can e-mail you a diagram for either one. :)

first take off the tire, Then take off the metal dust cap,The nut should be kinked,take out the kink,Take off the nut with a 1 1/4" socket,The drum should come right off after that.If you need new nuts (sometimes if they are old there won't be enough metal to kink them again) you have to get them from the dealer,they should only cost about 6 or 7 dollars.

1. Open hatchback

2. On upper right for drivers side and upper left for passenger side remove screw (philip head)

3. Inside hatchback on frame locate large opening under lower part of tail light. Unscrew black retaining nut (looks like a round wing nut).

4. Pull lens up and out (upper part of lens has a retension pin) to gain access to bulbs. Turn bulb housing counter clockwise to remove mount. Wiring harness can also be removed to ease turning. Take care not to break the snap on clip on wiring harness.

if the car is off, it will not move. if it is on and it still wont move, take the cupholder out (just pull up) and their should be a white tab on the right side of the shifter. push it either up or down im not sure which but that should unlock it. (this is used so that if the car breaks down, you can push it into neutral when the car is off).

and if that doesnt fix the problem your going to want to take the whole center console off to get a better look.

start by removing the back peice. push the seats all the way forward and their should be two screws on the sides. remove those and pull it off (its easier if the ebrake is engaged).

now the next peice has two screws on the end by the ebrake. remove those. and remove the tabs on the sides by the pedal assembly. and the passenger side (center pops up, get your fingernail under it, then pull the tab out) then the center console should just pull up and you can get a better look at why it wont shift.