Ford Excursion XLT

FOR DIESELS=The fuel pump is located on the frame rail on the drivers side of 2002 and newer models for sure. I'm not sure of the exact cut off year though. some older models locate them above the fuel tanks and are a pain to get to. if you slide under the vehicle just behind the drivers door look up into the drivers side frame rail on the side of the frame rail that is closer to the center of the vehicle. it is wraped in a black foam boot and it has wires coming from it. you can see the fuel line coming out of either end. One leading back to the tank and one going towards the engine. fuel pumps on older models is located on top of the fuel tank. You must drop the tank in order to get to it. If yours is 2001 or older It is probably located above the tank. Check to be sure though check the rail like I explained above before removing the fuel tank! FOR GAS= Check the frame rail. If not, so..sorry it's above the gas tank Hope this helps, any questions Cory@wingsxtreme.com

check out www . motorcraft service . com ( no spaces ) click on Owner Guides a diagram / list for the fuse panel can be viewed on-line

Please go to this link and print out an owners guide for future use: http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdirs/SPubs/default.asp?pageid=oghome&gutsid=spubs_serv_all_new&TYPE=OWNERGUIDE&menuIndex1=57 input the year and make of your ford/mercury vehicle and click on view owners guide. Fuse info is usually found under roadside emergency chapter.

Look at all the pulleys and you'll see one that isn't really connected to anything like the power steering unit, alternator, water pump or the engine. It's connected only to an "arm". This arm is spring loaded and is what provides the "tension" to the belt. If I recall, there's a nub that you can put an adjustable wrench on and use the wrench as "leverage" to swing the arm and release the tension. Then with your other hand, get the loosened belt off of the alternator pulley first (since it's a small pulley and it's right on top). Now you can release the arm since you have the belt started and the rest is elementary. Reinstall the same way...get it almost all the way on exept for on the alternater, pry the arm to give slack, slip over the alternator last and you're done. This belt is grooved with an exect number of grooves. This grooves match grooves on all the pulleys. Make sure the belt is lined up in all the grooves-especially the very bottom pulley...the crankshaft-it's the one most likely to be not quite on because it's hard to see while you're prying with the wrench.

Currently, I am getting about 11 MPG and that is no jack-rabbit starts and keeping at 55 MPH and no extra weight as in hauling.

Umm, it depends exactly what vehicle you're talking about.

The difference is in the engine 330 is bigger than 350'

( 5 W 20 ) in the 5.4 L - V8 and 6.8 L - V 10 gasoline engines ( according to the

owners manual )

if you cant find a routing diagram for the serpentine belt under the hood take a cell phone picture of it so you know how to route it once its off.

Usually you can use a 15mm socket or wrench and relieve the pressure of the tensioner by putting the wrench on the bolt that is at the tensioner wheel and pulling back, to find the tensioner if you don't know what I'm talking about, start the car open the hood and look for something that looks like it is holding the belt tight, usually this tensioner has some slight vibration to it and the wheel is nice and smooth since the back of the belt rests against it, not the grooved side.

Open hood. Remove four screws holding top of grille on. Pull lower part of grille out with a little force.

Typically behind the glove box or passenger side kick panel. Open the glove box to it's normal position, then carefully deflect the side stops until the glove box door drops all the way down exposing the wiring harness behind the glove box. Operate the door locks and you will hear the relay, which is about 1 x 2 inch white plastic and has 6 wires in the connector.

A 1994 and later Ford Explorer will have a factory, refrigerant (R134a) 134a system. In mid 1992 all vehicles produced for delivery in the United States were required under Federal law to have this type of system. Occassionally, but rarely, one will find a late 1992 or early 1993 system that still has refrigerant (R12) 12 fittings. But this is the exception rather than the rule and it is unheard of (virtually) for anything later than 1993 to have anything other than an R134a ayatem. Of course, it is easy to determine which system your Explorer has by checking the service fittings (the place where refrigerant service manifold guages hook up). Although as of last count there were over seventy (that's right!) different refrigerants on the market (all requiring [technically by law] their own exclusively distinct service fittings) there are only two refrigerants that (a) have ever been used by ALL (U.S.) automobile manufacturers and (b) have ever been approved by BOTH the EPA and all (U.S.) automobile manufacturers (concurrently). These are R12 and R134a. If the service fittings on your vehicle are 1/4 inch, male flare fittings, you have an R12 system. If the fittings on your vehicle have no threads and resemble the type of fitting used on modern day air compressor (an air 'chuck' type fitting) then you have an R134a fitting. If you have 'air chuck' type fittings attached over 1/4 inch male flare fittings, you have a system that has been converted from R12 to R134a (keep in mind that the specially designated fittings for some alternative refrigerants bear similar resemblence to R134a fittings, but R134a guages will not attach to them). Also, keep in mind two things. Refrigerants that contain ANY amount of flammable substance(s) (such as Freeze12, HCFC12, AutoCool and others) are illegal in most states. Refrigerants other than R12 and R134a void warranty on most parts produced by most manufacturers (and, yes, they do test, and yes, they can tell). Additionally, you might note that these alternative refrigerants (ANY BLENDing of refrigerants is federally illegal) are generally more expensive than R134a. Given the ease of converting a system now and the low cost of R134a, and the items mentioned above... why use something else? And I didn't even mention the fact that no one has done extensive research on these alternative refrigerants to determine what, if any damage they might cause to a system and/or what type of oils are compatible with them.

• to get different speed
• to get reverse speed
• helps the vehicle to move against friction

The dealer that sold the truck has the code on file.

Blown fuse that controls the power windows. Fuse box is usually under the dashboard just to the left of the brake pedal. It will probably have a black cover. And, if it GM still does it the same way the fuse box will be labeled with what the fuses are for (abbreviated of course) and how many amps it is.

You can view the 2001 Ford Excursion owners manual online at :

www . motorcraft service . com ( no spaces )

Click on Owner Guides

( the fuses and relays section starts on page 149 , it has the list and diagram for the fuse box but it just has the list for the Power Distribution Box located in the engine compartment , no diagram )

the relay is behind the radio in a dual relay block

Mine was $38,500.00, we didn't negotiate the price either...I was just excited to be one of the first owners of this type truck!

I know it's located under the drivers side next to the frame. But there are hose connection that I don't know how to remove. I would like an answer to how they come off.

it sounds like the window relay is not working or not making good connection.....had this happen on a 1990 town car i used to own........the relay on the 1990 was behind the glove box.....you could drop the box down and thump the relay and windows would start working......finally replaced relay and no more problems..........good luck