Ford Fiesta

In the fuel tank

back of engine below back of the head ,, its a tight wee bugger to get at ,,

easy you get the gear stick and on there underneath the stick will be a little clutch button of sum sort and then you put into reverse along with the clutch in

10 years or 100.000 miles

The 2011 Ford Fiesta is 14 ft. 5.6 in. (173.6 in.) long.

Ford Fiesta 2005-2008

Open driver-side door and look up underneath dash next to gas pedel. Then just look straight up you will see electrical wire and screws holding blower fan housing. It takes a little work but easy to replace cost about $60 new.

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1c/b5/e2/0900823d801cb5e2.jsp

If it is a 1.25 Zetec engine then the oil must be 5w 30

If it is an Endura engine 5w 40.

Hope that helps!

£35 per year

Trouble code P0320 means: Ignition Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction

Theres a bad earth due to corrosion.

It could be due to shorting of the rear number plate light fittings. This is what I found on my mondeo. The number plate and dashboard lights share a single fuse in the Mondeo, perhaps this is also the case in the Fiesta. The bulb holder had been bent out of shape and dislodged from its mount and was able to contact the metal of the hatch causing a short. This generally happened when I went over a bump with the lights on. It took me a long time to figure this because I had assumed that the fault lay under the dash. The fix was very simple, just a case of removing the number plate light cover, bending the bulb holder back in to shape and clipping it to its mount. Hope this helps

Current Ford service intervals are 12500 miles or 12 months for Petrol or Diesel

Ford recommend 5w/30 semi or fully synthetic for all their latest engines.

if you disconnect the battery first there wont be any problems with the changeover

On the latest Duratorq 1.4 TDCI engine, you reach it from the top. To the right of the engine block is an air intake pipe that runs to the front of the fan. a single screw above the fan holds it in place. Take out the screw and pull out the end of the pipe away from the fan and pull and unclip the air intake pipe at the connection next to the engine block. Underneath this you will see something that looks like a small 2nd World War type bomb with a black plastic head. Prepare for a big oil spillage or leave the car to stand overnight. Use a size 27mm socket to undo the black plastic cap. The paper oil filter comes out with it, just unclip it and clip in the new one. Use a size 21mm socket to undo the oil drain on the sump. A 15 minute job, was really easy when I realised the metal filters are no more.

Remove the two rubber grommets on the inside and, with a flat-blade screwdriver, flick the spring steel catches inside, so that the light unit pops out of its seat, exposing the 18Watt wedge fitting bulb.

front of the engine, behind the air filter and power steering pump

OK

Remove the wheel trim and remove the road wheel, I would advice using a good set of axle stands to support the car as you have to give the caliper bolts a bit of welly to get them loose.

Once its up in the air you will have to take off the caliper slide bolts they are hidden under two plastic bungs, you need to use a special Allen/torx key to get these off.

Mine were hard to get out so I took the caliper off and use a good set of moleys against my thigh to get them out.

Ok you will need a 13 mill socket with a good rachet/bar to get the caliper of the suspension leg.. That is when you may have to give it a bit of welly.

Take of the brake anti squeal/rattle spring clips you may have to replace them if you are carefull you may use them again..

Once the caliper and the slide are loose you can get at the pads. they may need a bit of a tap to get them loose but if they are as worn as mine they will fall out.

Ensure you support the caliper so as you don't stretch the brake lines

Leave the inboard pad in place and using a good G Clamp wind the piston back in to caliper body. Make sure you take the top of the fluid reservoir to allow for the piston going back in, once its back take out the old inboard pad and give the piston a good clean out, dry clean cloth, or back clean..

Offer the new pads up into the caliper guide and offer the whole assembly onto to caliper. Replace the caliper pins and tighten then up, replacing the plastic bungs

re attach the caliper to the suspension leg and re tighten the 13 MIL Caliper bolts

replace the road wheel and lower car to ground.. re tighten wheel bolts

road test, take it easy on the brakes till the pads bed in

there now go and clean you hands and show your son just how bad his brakes were..

thanks

martin

I have had to replace the heating control valve on a few fiestas, it is very common. It can be found on the bulk-head of engine bay just below wiper mechanism. Its got a plug on the side and two pipes in and out the other side. They are roughly £17 from Ford dealers, I would not advise getting one from a scrappy, cos the ones I've had from good scrappies tend not to last very long and were only a few quid cheaper than new one. They are really easy to replace, only tool you will need is mole grips to squeeze the rings around each pipe. Do it when the engine is cold.

Hope this helps

I believe usuallly it is a High Carbon Steel such as 1080 - 1095 or 5160 series steels

petrol-underneath on the front of the engine

diesel- ontop, on the right hand side between the engine and airbox

The average price of a new 2013 Ford Fiesta is roughly from å£9,795 and upwards in the United Kingdom. In the United States it is around $13,000 and upwards.

Adjust tire pressure and drive it. The light should reset itself after a short drive unless the pressure sensor unit in one of the tires is bad.