Ford Windstar

Technically, fuse #10 covers the blend door actuator motor, but... It also covers the following:

Heated Backlite Relay (coil), Speed Control
Module, ABS Module or IVD Module, Heat
Seat Switch (RH/LH) (if equipped), Heated
Seat Module (RH/LH) (if equipped),
Cluster, Front Temp Blend Door Actuator,
Brake Shift Interlock Solenoid, Powertrain
Control Module, Power Sliding Door
Module RH and LH, Reverse Sensing
System, Front A/C Control Head, Steering
Wheel Angle Sensor (if equipped)

So if that fuse was blown, it's a whole lot more than just the temperature setting that wouldn't work and you would certainly notice it.

Please read the "Related Questions" for more diagnostic/trouble-shooting guides for Windstar heating problems.

The 1997 Honda Passport does not have a secret latch to open the rear door. The rear door latch can be found just above the license plate holder.

I also have one doing the very same thing, if I hit the top of the dash real hard(like the old TVs) it will return to normal. It seems to happen more often when it's very hot out. I may pull my instrument cluster off to see if something is shorting out. It's a very intermittent and aggravating problem.

For the 3.8 liter V6 engine in a 2002 Ford Windstar :

( there are 6 spark plugs )

Check the Vehicle Emission Control Information ( VECI ) decal located in the front of the engine compartment ( it will show the type of spark plugs to use and the spark plug gap )

The dashboard *switch* - slide control itself??

Never heard of one of those going bad, but... Start with the dash trim piece - 2 7mm screws at the bottom - alongside the ashtray/cup-holder pull out. The trim piece then unsnaps from the dash.

Expect a couple more screws holding the heater controls and wire connection or 2.

Pretty straight-forward.

If by chance you really are looking how to replace the temperature blend door actuator, that is well covered by numerous contributors in the "Related Questions" below.

This is not for the rule abiding, uptight individual, so as far as the rest of the world goes.. if you have one key to your transponder key vehicle. Simply take the key hide it under your dash on the driver side in any fashion you feel comfortable with, but, of course, have a key cut that matches it(regular key) your computer will pick up the transponder under the dash and the $3 key will start it. Your other question will be "can people still my car now" yes, they can... will they.. NO, probably not. The reason for that is, that thieves know what they are stealing. they know your car has a transponder on it and won't even try.. they will move on to the next car. Can you bypass the transponder? NO. once again.. a thief knows this...

i have no spark from coil..i was driving down the road and it just quit

"crossover tube"... (??)

If this is referring to the coolant bypass hose/tube, we've got you covered with the "Related Question" below.

If not, please elaborate on what/where/symptoms are related...

i would check fuses you can use a simple test light to check all fuses one at a time,then replace any that you find are not working connect clip to a good ground on vehicle,then with tip of test light, hold on sliver spot that can be seen on back side of fuse. then if no light in test light, put light on other silverspot. majority of fuses will need ignition switched on if no pwer to light from either sliver spot, replace the fuse

From everything I have read about this, if putting the jey in the 'ACC' mode for 10-15 minutes doesn't reset the system you will most likely have to have the key cylinder replaced by the dealer. The security Passkey system will probably have to be replaced or bypassed.

According to the 1996 Ford Windstar Owner Guide :

With the 3.8 liter V6 engine :

The LX trim came with a ( 25 U.S. gallon / 94.6 liter tank )

The GL trim had either the ( 20 gallon or the optional 25 gallon tank )

If you have continuity from the DLC back to the PCM on all the pins that it should, and the PCM has power and ground everywhere it is supposed to, you probably need a PCM. Before I throw a PCM at it though, I would make extra sure that you have checked all of the stuff that I spoke of first. Remeber the PCM will have more than one power and more than one ground input.

Here's the technical description of the p0340-344 diagnostic trouble codes:

P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction

P0341 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Performance

P0342 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Low Input

P0343 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit High Input

P0344 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Intermittent

Obviously, the camshaft position sensor (CPS) is the probable source of the problem.

See "Related Questions" below for more about the CPS

Thx everyone for the detailed posts on how to change out this heat accuator on my 01 windstar...i bought the din tool from walmart for five bucks and had a hard time taking out my radio even with the tool ....i was putting it in too far....it should only go in 1-1/4'' b4 u gently push em away from each other and pull out ..it takes some finess and time ...i took many breaks on this and came back to it later till i got it..that was the hardest part of the job.... then i took out the radio and disconnected it and set it aside...dropped down the glovebox..took off the molding along with the climate control panel ,two bolts at the top used 7mm socket....the accuator is held with three 1'' inch screws that are 8mm ...i also disconnected some of the plugs on the climate control panel for easier access....i used two exentions in conjuction with each other to make the job easy...the accuator was 35.99 at autozone..and they loaned me all the tools to do the job....the job took me two and a half hours..i also used a small flashlight for this job...and i couldn't have done it wthout the info on this site thx again everyone....

Yes

Possibly here http://www.alldatadiy.com/

I have never seen a vehicle that has an on/off switch for the speakers, including the Windstar.

See "Related Questions" below for more about Windstar radio wiring

Interpreting "manual lever position sensor" to be referring to the transmission range sensor (TRS) / aka neutral safety switch ...

Yes. The TRS sends information to the powertrain control module (PCM) that in turns sends control signals to the transmission.

If the engine computer gets bad info than it's extremely likely it's going to send bad control info to the transmission.

Luckily, a TRS is not very expensive and a rather 'easy' replacement.

See "Related Questions" below for more

No

You can download the manual at: http://www.motorcraftservice.com/pubs/content/~WO3F12/~MUS~LEN/36/03f12og5e.pdf

If there is the smell of anti-freeze, you're almost sure to be replacing the heater core.

See "Related Questions" below for more

"nothing comes out"... Hmmm... That could be the blower motor.

Check fuses and possibly have to replace the blower motor. Not a hard job by the way.

It should have an tensioner pulley on it. A spring loaded arm that puts pressure against the belt as it travels. You may need to replace the pulley and spring if it is failing and allowing the belt to slip off.

I TO HAVE A 96 WINDSTAR THAT HAD A SIMILAR PROBLEM WHILE DRIVING ON ROUGH ROADS. WITH THE SLIDING DOOR OPENED I WOULD TRY AND SHAKE IT TO TRY AND MAKE THE SOUND, BUT NO SOUND. WITH SOMEONE DRIVING THE VAN AND DOOR CLOSED TRIED PUSHING ON THE DOOR , THE NOISE WAS STILL THERE . EVENTUALLY TRACED IT TO THE REAR SHOCK ABSORBER RUBBER BUSHING, THE SHOCK WAS VIBRATING AGAINST THE FASTENER THAT SHOULD HAVE HAD A RUBBER BUSHING. AFTER REPLACING THE BUSHING THE NOISE WAS GONE HOPE THIS SOLVES YOUR PROBLEM.

I have 98. I searched for that noise everywhere on my van. I could not get it to stop. When I messed with the side door and the noise continued, I started to think it was the jack moving around, then maybe the lock in the rear door. Going insane I thought. Then while under the van to get a child's ball, I noticed the shocks were so worn, the rubber bushing was gone. I had the absorbers replaced and I can`t even get my 98 to make a noise now even when I push it to the limit over bumps. If the absorbers are in good condition but the bushing is shot-NEW BUSHINGS, but if your absorbers are riding low-NEW SHOCKS.