You can find the specification for the Peters Petrol Pump coursework on the AQA website under the Computer Science section. Look for the specific course code or title related to the Peters Petrol Pump task to access the relevant information.
Advancing fuel oil injection timing in marine diesel engines allows more time for fuel to combust before the piston reaches the top dead center, resulting in increased cylinder firing pressures. This leads to higher peak pressure, improved combustion efficiency, and better power output from the engine. However, advancing the timing too much can cause knocking and potential engine damage.
The fuel filter is in-line. It is located under the vehicle on the driver's side. It is very close to the rear of the driver's door. It is not very big and very easy to change. You will see the fuel lines running along the bottom of the car. Just follow it until you see the filter. It is about a foot and a half in front of the rear wheel on the driver's side. Like I said it is very close to the outer part of the car, maybe about six inches.
the little blue relay down by the battery and starter relay...
You will need to empty the tank while hooked to the car. (so when you do drop the tank you dont get splashed with gas to much. when the tank is removed you will need to
Flush out the Contents: Empty the tank of all its contents
Clean the Tank: Use new gasoline and clean the tank thoroughly.
Hot Water and Acid Cleaning: Now is the real cleaning step. You will need hot water as much as the capacity of the fuel tank. Fill the tank to half its capacity with hot water. Remember the muriatic acid we just spoke about? Its time to add it to the hot water. You will have to add approximately half a gallon of the acid to the water. Then add in the remaining hot water in the tank. Close the gas tank with a cap, but make sure you do not use the tank cap. Do not disturb the tank for about 2 to 21/2 hours. Let the entire mixture settle in the tank.
Without removing the tank, the easiest way is to remove the fuel line from the tank, connect a 2 foot piece of line to the tank, open the petcock and drain into a bucket or gas can. To remove any left over fuel in hard to reach places, use an old turkey baster.
the fuel filter on your grand prix is located on the drivers side right beside the fuel tank. hope this helps, brewski It is located under the drivers side floor acessable from under the vehicle. For pics and instructions check out http://www.pfyc.com/supportfiles/gasfilter/ hope this helps. "G"
In most cases, mint stamps, those that have not been used, are worth more. In a few cases, used stamps are more valuable. Modern used stamps are typically worth very little, but there are exceptions and the most valuable stamps in the world are used.
The 1985 Lincoln Town car should be equipped with an internal electric fuel pump. The tank is located in front of the carrier for the rear differential. It's difficult to change a pump with the tank still in its' seating.
It depends on the type of sanitizer the pool is on. There are 3 main EPA registered sanitizers for pools...chlorine, bromine, and biguanides. I'm going to assume all the answers below the primary sanitizer the customer is using is chlorine. Yes, your sand can last 4 to 5 years, possibly 6 on a chlorine pool without being changed, assuming that you chemically clean it once a year and backwash as needed. Now, if your pool is using a non-chlorine sanitizer (bi-guanide) Baquacil as an example, you MUST change the sand maxium every 2 years and clean it at opening and midseason every year. Baquacil is a VERY filter dependant product. It does not oxidize waste like chlorine does. It actually collects the particles and traps them in the filter and they stay there. Some will be backwashed out during backwashing, but the rest just stay there until chemically cleaned out. It will literally turn into concrete in the filter if not changed out and kept clean. Just wanted to make this clear that it does make a huge difference depending on the sanitizing system of the pool.
About every 4 years. Actually, any pool professional will tell you the sand in your filter does not need to be changed but once every 20 to 25 years if the water has been maintained properly. If you flush your sand and clean it by backwashing and rinsing weekly (backwashing for 2 minutes, rinsing for 1), you should be able to stay away from changing your sand. I like to advise my customers to use a chemical to clean out their sand annually.
I've been in the trade for 30+ years and have never heard that 20 to 25 year time frame for changing the sand in a sand filter. For one, the filter alone will realistically only last 10 to 12 years - sometimes longer. Rule of thumb is to change out the sand about 5 to 6 yrs. At that 5 yr. time frame the sand looses it's ability to hold the contaminents. The shear motion of the water will,in time, round out the sand particle - thus removing the sharp edges that sand naturally has.
Many types will be able to suffice in the situation. Take the filter in with you for comparisons and ask for help if needed.
My Haynes manual says that the "96 turn signal/hazard flasher is plugged into the "convenience center" which is mounted at the top of the left kick panel. FriPilot
drivers side mid way back next to the support rail. Its rough getting to.
I didn't find it rough it's about a 3 minute job. The fuel filter is under the rear drivers door near the frame rail. There is a black plastic cover over the gas tank with an access door near the frame rail pull the door towards the frame rail it will pop off then it's two clips on the filter to change.
Front of engine, right side as you're facing engine. It's about a foot down and sits upright in a black case with a spin-on top. You'll need a big socket to remove the top and the old filter will pull out.
probably no gas, if there is gas then your gauge in the tank is broken or frozen
COULD be many things; check the easy/inexpensive ones first; bad/loose plug wire. Clogged fuel filter. If you totally depress the gas pedal and hold it down while cranking, the fuel that may be collected in the cold-start injector will drain - SHOULD even start if the problem is a partially clogged filter.
Spray starting fluid in the throttle body (at the end of the large hose at the motor opposite of where the air filter is) and get it running on the ether, then it should take off on its own. But put in gas first. If you don't have ether (starting fluid), you can also cycle the ignition key to bring fuel to the motor. That is turn the key to the on position (not run), listen for a hum (electric fuel pump), when it ends turn the off. Wait 5 seconds, turn the key back to the run position, and repeat this five times. If this doesn't work, then you have a different problem.
Ether should be used sparingly because it can cause damage to your engine.
Another Suggestion:
Ether is unnecessary, just add gas to the tank, turn the key on and off a couple of times to run the fuel pump, and start.
When you install the other filter under the hood dont screw it on all the way leave it loose so the air can escape the lines
Turn the keys to on position then spiral thing pops up tells you to wait for spark plugs to warm up at the same time it primes the fuel lines too so turn it on wait till light go off, turn off the key and do it again about 5-12 times it can be as long as 2 trys if you did every thing perfectly and you will see or hear the diesel pooring out of the fuel filter under the hood.
4th Tighten the filter
5th turn key to on wait for light to go off and start while pumping gas pedal should start right up.
Very good question and have fun on your project.
best way i know how is to open one of the injector lines a little and turn the engine over till fuel comes out
Realistically, I have owned a 7.3 turbo for 15 years and replaced many fuel filters in many diesels. It has never been necessary to bleed the fuel system.
You don't - according to the service manual. If you must it is located INSIDE the fuel tank as part of the fuel pump assembly. The fuel tank must be drained and removed to complete the procedure.
The question you ask is too involved for a proper answer. You may want to go to a car parts store, or book store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.
Unscrew the panel under the steering wheel, and you should see it bolted underneath. Really easy to replace.
Usually, the line feeding the recepticle has a collar that simply slips back away from the recepticle (You may have to push the line forward and then pull back on the collar.) Then it should release.