Geo Metro

Generally there are rods which push the latch opening lever down to open the door. In the most trivial case, the rod which connects to the lever of the outside handle fell off the hole, or the plastic retainer broke off. If you want to fix it yourself you'll need to remove the paneling and plastic weather piece on the inside of the car door to access it.

There are several descriptions on the web how to remove the panel, so here it will be reviewed only briefly. Put the window crank handle pointing up, hold a cloth below to collect the spring, and use an old sock or shirt sleeve to push the spring down by sliding the sock behind the handle and pulling down each end of the sock, alternating left and right side until the spring flows down into your trap. The next obstacle is the plastic bezel of the interior handle which is easy to click back in place, but somewhat tricky to remove without breaking it. Force it gently from different sides with a screw driver, also pull the handle and pull the bezel forward. Remove the plastic covers over the screws of the arm-rest handle. Unscrew its 2 screws, as well as the 2 screws on the bottom of the arm-rest pocket. The latter 2 screws may be rusty and if so, you may need some spry to loosen them before you've ruined their philips heads. Pry the plastic buttons of the panel open with a flat screwdriver wrapped in a rag to avoid scratching. Pull the bottom of the panel off, and then lift the top out of the window. Open the top side of the plastic sheet enough to be able to work comfortably with the latch and its two handles. A flash light may be helpful to see better inside the door without removing the seat belt mechanism.

If the rod is out of the handle lever, reinsert it and make sure the plastic retainer clicks to hold it in place. Should the plastic retainer be broken or hard and brittle from age, it must be replaced with new or a good used one. Temporarily you can tie the rod in place to the handle with a copper wire, garbage tie, or elastic from the panties of your passenger:)

If the door gradually became harder to open, the driver gets used to pull harder instead of investigating the problem. This may result in one side (usually the back lever) of the exterior door handle to break. Even the nut of the handle mounting screw could break off from the plastic handle body. This twists the rod when the handle is pulled to open the door, and the rod may not be able to push the latch opening lever all the way down. If so, the exterior handle must be replaced even before the other side breaks, too. Prior to removing the door handle, you must disconnect the opening rod from the handle lever. Then remove the spring retaining the lock cylinder. Put some cloth to catch the spring and avoid fishing it from behind the seat belt mechanism with a magnet on a copper wire:) Remove the cylinder,, unscrew the 2 screws and the handle can be pulled from the outside. Mount the new or good used handle with the two screws. Put the spring on the cylinder and push the cylinder back in place until the spring clicks. Pull back to check it will not fall out. Connect the rod to the handle lever.

Regardless, whether the handle had to be replaced or not, do check the proper function. Pull the interior opening handle and watch how far down the latch opening lever is pressed. Next pull the exterior handle and watch the latch opening lever again. If it does not go as much down as from the inside, then that has to be remedied, otherwise the problem will remain or reappear shortly. That may have been the very reason for the gradual tightening or complete failure of the exterior opening function.

The first way is to disconnect the rod from the handle, then unwind the end piece 2-3 turns to effectively make the rod appear longer. If there is no room for further adjustment, the next option is to carefully bend open the two knees of the rod at slightly wider angles, so as to restore the initial length of the rod (from repeated long-time use, the aging knees bend slightly, the rod gets shorter and cannot push down the latch opening lever far enough. Be careful though, because if you force the knees too much or overshoot and need to adjust it forth and back a couple of times, then the rod may break, or crack and break later after you have mounted the panel back. For these reasons, if you can find such rods, it may be better to just replace them with new.

Check for proper operation as described above, then put the panel back in place without actually mounting it and test all functions with both handles, locking and unlocking from the inside and with the key. If everything is OK, lubricate all moving parts with lithium or graphite grease or with colloidal zinc paste used for Al to Al electrical connections (Ideal Noalox or similar--BTW, apply a thin layer Noalox on the battery and starter electrical connections, too; extra thick layer can leak to cause a short circuit), tape the plastic sheet back in place, mount the panel, making sure the its top end enters between the window and the door, then align the bottom and click all plastic buttons in. Apply grease on the threads of all 4 screws, mount the handle with the 2 longer screws, then 2 shorter screws in the side pocket. Finally, put the retaining spring into the window handle, put the plastic fender washer on the crank axis, with the window closed point the handle slanted forward and up and press it into the axis until the spring clicks in place. Pull back to check that the handle will not fall off. Phinally Done.

There's a myth that those who can't do, teach others. Well, there are some exceptions. (I, very modestly, can both do and teach, can't I;)

Napa, or even most autopart store will carry these. If they dont have them ,they will order them for you. I would suggest calling/shopping around before deciding where to buy them.

It is inside the air intake with the air filter.

Put it in the sun :)

the green arrow is the key to change up a gear...but sometimes mine comes to early the only way you can tell if its time to switch is when the green arrow comes on and the engine is at a high enough RPM to not bog down.

FLORA

if you have done all normal tune up work do a compression test you may have a burnt valve, good plugs are very important

nope

Techron to clean fuel injectors, spark plugs etc.

If you're trying to improve gas mileage, use gas with no ethanol.

Also, you can add 2 fl. oz of pure acetone per 10 gallons (they have it at Walmart for $1). It increased the overall gas mileage in my 1996 1.3 metro automatic about 4%.

If I use 10% ethanol fuel however, acetone has no effect, and my gas mileage drops from 42 to 37 mpg (with or without acetone added).

Disconnect any vacuum hoses from the distributor and plug them. Then you loosen the distributor hold down screws and turn it clockwise to advance the timing or counter clockwise to retard it. Tighten the hold downs, reconnect the vacuum lines and away you go.

Frederick Wilhelm I of Prussia increased his geo-political power by making the army the center of his state.

The orginial Metro comes with 12 inch tires which has to be ordered special. you have to go to bigger tire. i am about to swap my 12's out. get with dealer.

Yes, they are compatible. You could also use a 1994 - 1998 Suzuki Swift engine. Or if you can find one a 1994 - 1998 Pontiac FireFly engine. Hope this helped.

The rear drum of a metro can be removed by force after the wheel is off.

you should ensure that the parking brake is off and use a large wheel puller. Not recommended to use a hammer but a bit of wd-40 around the hub spindle can help

This is a major overhaul. You must remove the intake manifold, exhaust manifold, oil pan, and head. You then must remove the pistons, install the rings on pistons, reinstall the pistons, along with all bearings, and reassemble the engine. If you wish to attempt this repair there is way too much to this to try and describe in detail here. I suggest you purchase a repair manual.

What one of the 16 trim panels I can think of on the Metro

And what year, Because it matters!

Check the coolant sensor on the throttle body.

front caliber seized

The fuel pump in located inside the fuel tank. YOu have to drop the tank to get at the pump and this can be a choure. Most of the time this is not a job for a week end mechanic. You can do it but remember that you are fooling with gas and gas vapers. On wrong spark and B.O.O.M YOu can even set it off draging the tank from under the car. Take my advice, have it doun. The life you save may be your own. Dons Auto

just put in some new AA batteries. if that dont work you should try craig's list

i have seen as high as 180-195 psi if you are 100 - 90 - 80 or less. Time to think about a rebuild, or replacemnt motor I just rebuilt a 1996 that had 80 psi

Enogh to get me to work and back a bunch of times

The fuse box is normally under dash on the drivers side, may have to get down low next to the drivers side door and look up and to the left. There is also a fuse box under hood on drivers side, but that has nothing to do with lights, etc.

Geo is a part of GM.

The Geo Prism was a rebadged Toyota Corolla. The Geo Metro was a rebadged Suzuki Swift. The Geo Tracker was a rebadged Suzuki Sidekick. The Geo Storm was a rebadged Isuzu Impulse. The Geo Spectrum was a rebadged Isuzu I-Mark.