Grand Prix GT

I was told that you can install them but you have to buy a new key from the dealer so the chip can be used out of it. They would basically destroy the key so they can use the chip in the remote starter kit. They have to do this because the cars anti-theft system needs the chips info to start and stay running without doing a theft engine kill. The keys from the dealer are about $200- $300 dollars each and they are the only ones that can make them.

The "chip" that is in the key itself is really a resistor. Alot of times they have to measure it and have to install it into the ignition system in order to get the car to start and run. Give it a try.

When modding a GTP and changing the supercharged pulley, you will want to go with a 3.4" pulley. If you do this, however, you will want some supporting mods to reduce knock retard in the engine, which retards your ignition timing and reduces the power output of the engine. Supporting mods for a 3.4" pulley would be a K&N cone intake, which you can make yourself, colder spark plugs, a 180 degree thermostat, and a little exhaust work would help, also. Just a u-bend removal and a 3" downpipe would work.

Knock is very detrimental to these engines. You need a scanning tool to find where your engine is at the moment before modding. Then check afterwards, you may need additional modding in order to keep your motor from blowing up, even from just a small change in pulley size. There are many people that have gone down this road. Learn from their mistakes and do it the right way from the begining.

Check the write up on pulley size at:

http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/TM.asp?m=2867792&p=1&mpage=1&tmode=1&smode=1&key=&language=

Hope this helps

"G"

ANSWER FROM oogpgtp

I went with a 3.4 pully swap on my 2000 gtp but first I added a cat back 3in exhaust, k&n cold air intake, MSD ignition coils and wires, and most importantly a transmission cooler to keep the heat down. These mods cost about $ 1300 and really woke my beast up. To change the pully you'll need a proper pully tool. I bought a gm tool off eBay for about $100.

The ignition switch is on the steering column about 18 inches above the floor and is secured by 2 screws.

• I'll bet you mean the key lock mechanism on the side of the steering column. This can be done by a good "Shade tree mechanic" but you'll need more info than is practical here and some pictures. Get yourself a copy of the Haynes repair manual #38010. It costs about $20 and is a good investment in your car. It can be had at most auto parts stores (get your new lock there too and save a bundle over the dealer price) but don't let them tell you the Chilton manuals are just as good; they're garbage and anyone who says otherwise is a liar and a fool.

you can reset your lights by taking the terminals off your battery leave for 3mins then put back on it should reset it if it comes on again pursue the problem with your mechanic

The " check engine light" is by far one of the most misunderstood technological advances It is a warning light that is illuminated when there is a problem affecting the EMISSIONS of the vehicle.. Don't let it bother you as it is a good thing once you understand it. One point that was brought up a recent meeting of technicians was that the amount of hydrocarbons is greater when the gas cap is left off than when the engine is running. Hydrocarbons are part of pollution emitted as gasoline evaporates. Going a step farther, one facet of the emission system is the "Evaporative" portion. This is when the fumes from the gasoline are leaking from the system into the outside air. This is one part of the emission system that can trigger a check engine light. I would say a small percentage of the vehicles that have a check engine light are the result of a loose or inadequate gas cap. But understand that many scenarios are possible with the "check engine light" The vehicle's powertrain computer (note that some vehicles have multiple computers aside from the powertain computer) will run a series of self-tests. They will only run under certain criteria. And they are different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some self-tests or �monitors� are not run until preceding ones have run successfully. So if there is a problem in one particular area that is preventing another self test from running, you can have a situation where one problem is fixed, but another still exists. If you fix a problem and drive the car through a drive cycle that sets the monitor (or self test) the light will go off as it passes that criteria that triggered it in the first place. There are many different sources for the light to come on. Anything that caused combustion to fail, commonly called a misfire will set the light. Various sensors such as oxygen sensors that evaluate the exhaust before and after the gases are burned in the converter. Transmission codes may set the check engine light to appear. If the car is running okay, get it fixed in a reasonable amount of time such as within the month. It will probably save you fuel if you do. However if the Check engine light is flashing, you should be driving it as damage is being done to the converter. Some emission components are covered beyond the standard warranty. The converter for example is covered up to 80,000 miles by the manufacturer.After 1996, the auto industry went to a idea called OBD II (on board diagnostics). This was to get all the manufacturers onto a similar plane for troubleshooting and powertrain control. While they still differ, many corrections and adaptations were made for technicians to better fix the check engine light problems. Prior to this there were so many different and poor troubleshooting data from a check engine light problem that resolving the problem was much more difficult. Many early warning light of this nature were set to illuminate based on mileage. An Oxygen sensor was one of the things that were meant to be replaced when that mileage was hit. This is much like many current "Change oil lights� that are set based on a pre-set mileage. To start testing for the check engine light, you�ll need to find the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. There are self-tests for the oxygen sensor circuit, egr system, evaporative system to name a few. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related.

OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that it won�t come back on. But don�t bet on it. Lastly, disconnecting the battery in some cars will clear the memory of the computer and may temporarily turn the light off. Beware that this may also cause other problems such as the car not rembering it�s idle and will have to relearn it, the radio may be rendered inoperative or in the case of the new Toyotas, the air bag can blow.

Some of the rear speakers in the head liner are 6x9 and some are 4x10. the covers pop right out so checking is relatively easy