Grand Prix GT

It's located on the intake manifold itself.

You will need a new head gasket if you see engine coolant in the oil. I don't know about the thermostat.

i believe they are 6x9

Simply pry up the edges of the plastic in which the cup holder mechanism rests. To do this, open the console (drivers armrest) cover. There is a slot at the same position where the console button was located prior to lifting the cover. Use a large blade screwdriver to gently pry it up, as there are no screws holding it down.This trim is simply held in place by plastic tabs. Then gently pry the edges up all the way around until you have removed the plastic trim piece with the cup holder still in it. Now you can pull the cupholder out from the back after again using a screwdriver to compress the edges enough to release the raised plastic "pins" (the small raised plastic that acts as a hinge for the cup holder to rotate). I chose to replace the whole trim with cup holder in it, since I pulled it out of a grand prix in an auto salvage yard. This was simpler than removing the actual cup holder from the trim piece.Good luck.

Check an auto salvage yard, as mine only cost 10.00.

I think it is over $100.00 at a dealership.

There could be several reasons why a 2000 Pontiac Grand Am service engine light soon has come on. The engine may need a tune up, the timing belt may need changed, or even a bad fuel pump.

It is very easy to replace the MAF sensor on the 2002 GP. First, remove the plastic engine cover. Next, locate the sensor on top of the induction system. It is right on top just above the right hand side of the engine. It's flat, black and about 2" by 2 1/2" with a wire connection on it. Remove the wire connector from the unit. You'll need a security T20 bit to remove the four screws. Save the screws. Carefully remove the unit. Insert the new unit and install the four screws. Next, re-insert the wire connector. You're done!

5W-30

eaton m90

some times i turn my car on and it acts like it wants to start and than low and be hold the securaty light blinks frequently blinks for exactly 10 minutes light comes off than when when i try to start the car it starts my question is what is the trick of reset the alarm system so that i dont need two wait 10 minutes to start my OWN CAR.

Follow the upper rad hose from the rad to the engine.

For the tires? It should tell you the max tire pressure on the sidewall of your tire. it should say max psi. Don't put more than the max psi. you should put less.

It's on the driver's side of the vehicle BETWEEN the subframe and firewall. Access to the drain is virtually impossible without having the car on a lift to get your arms in there far enough. It is VERY difficult to see and can only be seen from the bottom of the car. The drain hole is to the right of the steering shaft. One way to clear the drain without getting too involved is to access it from inside the vehicle. Go to the driver's side and look under the dash. To the right of the steering shaft you will see a black "box" forward of the center console. This box is where your moisture collects and it runs directly into the firewall to drain the water out. If you feel around between the box and the firewall you will feel a foam gasket. This is where the drain is. You can drill a small hole in the SIDE of this box at the SAME LEVEL as the drain (water may drain out but if you have this issue then your floor is already wet). This will allow you to fit a hanger or something similar into the hole and work it into the drain to clear the clog. To verify you're clearing the clog, push the hanger in until you think you've made it through the drain and leave it. Go under the car and look for the hanger sticking out. Again this drain is very difficult to see. If you see the hanger then you have made it through. Continue to work the hanger around until you see all of the water draining out of the drain. Run the ac until you see water dripping from the drain consistently. Once you feel you've cleared the clog, get a small retainer tab (or screw) and put a dab of silicone on it and push it into the hole to seal it up.

I could have posted pictures but I don't have that much time. If this doesn't make any sense to you then you probably shoudn't attempt this procedure. Requires some mechanical knowledge.

The throttle body on most cars I've seen is fairly simple to remove. You'll need a socket set, and some spanners, and a couple of new gaskets. Go to your local auto parts and ask for the gaskets needed for your throttle body, and you should have no trouble picking them up. First things first, remove the cables (up to 3) from the throttle opener. They should just unclip. Place the ends aside, remembering where they came from. Remove any hoses and wires connected to the body, being careful to label them so they go back to the right spot. Remove any brackets and mounts around the throttle body that get in your way. Unscrew the bolts holding the throttle body to the inlet manifold, then remove. Remove all traces of the old gasket from the inlet manifold. Once the throttle body has been cleaned using carburettor cleaner, reinstallation is the exact reversal of removal, ensuring to replace all the gaskets, and put the hoses, wires and cables back where they came from.

I bought a '04 Grand Prix GT in 2008 with 80k miles on it. I've kept it well maintained and currently (July 2012) have 145k on it. I can't think of any real problems it has had. I've kept oil replaced on it, typically with high mileage oil, replaced tires, rear brakes (requiring a special tool I borrowed from autozone).

Thinking about it, I've also replaced the vent fan, and a plastic elbow that leaked antifreeze. About 5k ago, my radio display went dark so I can't see what station I'm on or anything.

It does run a little warm, so I flushed the radiator and replaced the thermostat--no effect. It started leaking antifreeze around a little over 110k, so I replaced the water pump.

I consider all these things, however, practically trivial and of little cost. Big things (engine, transmission, etc.) all seem to run fine. I trusted it on a 3,000 mile road trip a couple months ago and will be making the same trip in this September. I drove the first 1500 miles straight with only a few short stops... never a hint of a hiccup. Returning I got tired and broke the 1500 miles into two days. :)

brakes are need to be replace

Try this:

To reset "CHANGE OIL" light, turn the ignition switch to the run position without starting the engine. Fully depress and release the accelerator pedal 3 times within 5 seconds. and wait for the light to flash.

I don't think the 'gas pedal way' works on this year. The correct way to do it:

Turn key to ON - do not start. Press RESET button in driver's side fuse box. Change Oil light on dash should start flashing. Now Press & Hold RESET button until the Change Oil light turns off & you here 3-chimes.

This method will also work on a 2000 Grand Am

Turn key to ON - do not start. Press the RESET button in driver's side fuse box multiple times (3 to 5) until the Change Oil light on dash start flashing. Now Press & Hold RESET button until the Change Oil light turns off & you here 3-chimes.

What does the lj stand for in gran prix lj!

I have the same problem with my 1997 Pontiac Transport. I live in the snow belt and had to leave my car unattended for a spell so to turn the engine off while the wipers were working so as to leave them in a vertical position thereby preventing them from being trapped in snow and ice had I parked them in the normal off position. After that they now park up instead of down (horizontal). I bookmarked the question page. I will try to give you my solution to the problem once I discover it.

I fixed my 1998 Pontiac wipers by removing the plastic cover over the motor and spraying the disks where the arm attaches with brake cleaner. Seems to park the wipers correctly their must be enough friction to cause the "park mode" to be engaged when the motor runs backwards (which is what it does to park the wipers). Adding grease make it worse, so I removed all grease with the spray from the brake cleaner, especially on the little spring the wraps around all those little plates.

I believe it is 205 horsepower and 230 ft-lb of torque.

Should be at the bottom of the radiator logically...

It could be a number of things. First check all of the fuses. It could be the module which controls the lights but it needs to be checked out.

There is also a relay for the daytime running lights on your car i would check into that if all fuses are good.