Honda Prelude SI

1-3-2-4

You've done a good job of isolating the problem to fuel delivery. Now try to see if the pump is running and if fuel is being delivered to the injectors.Find the fuel line test port or a place where the fuel line connects. If you can find the port, have someone turn the engine on, then press the port valve to see if fuel comes out under pressure. If you don't have a fuel port try to loosen a pressurized fuel line connection to see if pressurized fuel comes out.Be very careful and have a fire extinguisher close, since there is always a possibility of a fire, also, don't let much fuel out for the same reason, just enough to see if there is pressure. If you're getting pressure to the injectors, perhaps you have a problem with injectors, computer, injector fuses or other problems related to the injectors. If you're not getting fuel pressure to the injectors, start tracing back to find out why.You're on the right track, don't give up.If you have any specific questions, feel free to contact me directly.Thank You Redbeard! more info below..........This particular vehicle has dual carbs. I have taken the main fuel line to carbs off and when key is on no fuel movement. When trying to start the fuel pours out? However, the fuel pump clicks when pushing fuel, I'm not sure if this is normal on this car or not. I am used to the normal whine or humm of a fuel pump. Again, it does push(more like spit) fuel when it "clicks"

I have an '87 Prelude and mine is located in the engine compartment on the passeger's side. It's actually on top of the transaxle down under the radiator's upper hose. You can burn your arm if you are not careful when reaching down to UNSCREW it. That's right, this dipstick is actually threaded into the transaxle. The top of the dipstick DOES NOT have a loop on it to hook your finger through, to pull it out and check it. Rather, it has a ridge that sticks up about 1/2". Kind of like a huge tip of a blade screwdriver. Reach down about 12" below the top of the engine compartment, unscrew the dipstick and pull it up to reveal a little dipstick about 1-1/2" long. Wipe it off and rethread it ALL THE WAY back in the transaxle. Then unthread it again and check it again to be sure you got the reading right. The hole that the dipstick sits in, is a filler hole about 1/2" in diameter. You'll need a long funnel or tube to pour in tranny fluid. Be sure and recheck the level when you are done. For my year, this is a difficult and painful way to check the fluid when it's hot. It seems like it was an engineering mistake that should have had a dipstick on top of the screw-in filler cap instead. Perhaps your 1997 model had an improved design. Z-gear

Approx 2 US qts.

flash a timing light ate the small oping between the engine and the tranny visible from right under the hood easy you will see the fly wheel and if it is only a small adjustment loosen the bolts on the distributor its self (not the black distributor cap) and you can twist it a little to get proper timing.

in the front of the block.

prelude's depending on spec can most deffinately be awd/4wd.. 100% 4ws,for best results go to a Honda search engine/site & you can read all about body/engine type / drive train / capacity.. even why & how the Honda prelude range was made.

Left side of the motor right near the distributor and air intake tubing

i have no diea what you mean i need to know the series of the engine that's in the car and i can help you from there

For a 2 door 2005 Accord Remove the 3 nuts on the studs on the tail light assembly Remove the wheel on the appropriate side of the car Remove the 3 screws that hold on the rock guard / mud flap Remove the 1 screw at the end of the bumper cover ( just above the aforementioned rock guard ) The screw head will be facing the ground Removed the 2 clips on the underneath side of the car at the back, each about a foot from the center of the car, by prying the head with a flat blade screwdriver With the trunk lid open, locate the 2 covers along the lower part of the opening and pry loose ( the covers are about 1" X 1.5" ) With a 10mm socket, remove the 2 bolts and gently pull back the bumper cover The 2 #@%&* screws that have held the tail light assembly are on the underneath side of the tail light assembly. HINT: remove the 2 nuts on the bracket instead. This will make removing and reinstalling the screws much easier I have the same question I need to replace my 2005 lenses, I removed the three bolts but I still can't get them off???????

For my "87 Prelude, replacement of the head gasket involves A LOT of work. A MANUAL IS REQUIRED (i.e. Chilton's). All removed screws, bolts, nuts, hoses, gaskets, and parts must be carefully organized or you're going to have a nightmare trying to get everything back together. Removal and replacement of AT LEAST the following is required: intake manifold, exhaust manifold, valve cover, timing belt, timing belt cover, alternator belt, a/c belt, power steering belt, spark plugs, engine oil. The engine must be set at Top Dead Center and kept there until reassembled. Great care must be taken to prevent dirt and objects from getting into the cylinders once the head is removed. The head bolts must be removed carefully and it is recommended that the head stud holes be rethreaded prior to reinstallation of the head. Also, it is a good idea to replace the head studs or it may be required (call dealer's part dept.). While doing this, it is wise to replace the water pump and timing belt while you've got everything off. Once the head is off, it should be taken to a service center (i.e. NAPA) for reconditioning. This will extend the life of your engine and help it operate like A ROCKET! It is foolish to not service the head while it is off the engine. The cam gasket should be replaced as well so it won't leak oil on your new timing belt. There are more items I probably left out as well as further items that can be done so you do this once and not have to do it twice, like I did. For my "87 Prelude, replacement of the head gasket involves A LOT of work. A MANUAL IS REQUIRED (i.e. Chilton's). All removed screws, bolts, nuts, hoses, gaskets, and parts must be carefully organized or you're going to have a nightmare trying to get everything back together. Removal and replacement of AT LEAST the following is required: intake manifold, exhaust manifold, valve cover, timing belt, timing belt cover, alternator belt, a/c belt, power steering belt, spark plugs, engine oil. The engine must be set at Top Dead Center and kept there until reassembled. Great care must be taken to prevent dirt and objects from getting into the cylinders once the head is removed. The head bolts must be removed carefully and it is recommended that the head stud holes be rethreaded prior to reinstallation of the head. Also, it is a good idea to replace the head studs or it may be required (call dealer's part dept.). While doing this, it is wise to replace the water pump and timing belt while you've got everything off. Once the head is off, it should be taken to a service center (i.e. NAPA) for reconditioning. This will extend the life of your engine and help it operate like A ROCKET! It is foolish to not service the head while it is off the engine. The cam gasket should be replaced as well so it won't leak oil on your new timing belt. There are more items I probably left out as well as further items that can be done so you do this once and not have to do it twice, like I did.

The turn signal/hazard light relay is directly behind the fuse box. its about an 1 1/2" wide and about 2" long and its black.

the speedo sensor is at the rear of the engine at the gearbox side. it,s a chuncky piece of plastic that holds it inside. or trace the longest wire on the loom that runs down between engine & box hope this helps.

I just did this job the other day my self and it was my first, it is real easy and takes no longer than an hour. The only tool you will need is a Fillips screw driver (cross, star). First lock your headlights in the "up" position, the button is located to the right of the steering wheel above the defroster. Next you will have to remove the shroud encasing the entire flip light system, there are 4 screws securing it down, one on each side of the light casing and then two longers screws on each side of the light it self. Once the shroud is removed, probably black in color, there are three more smaller screws to remove around the light itself. These screws secure a metal ring (chrome in color) that holds the light in place, this ring is transfered over to the replacement light. There are two black screws located at the bottom center and middle left or right (depending on which light is being removed) of the light, dont touch these screws or you car will explode, Ha ha just joking. These determine the orientation or you light beam, if you loosen or tight these screws your light will be aimed a little off but not a big deal just turn them back. Once the silver oval shapped ring has been removed you can then remove the light. Disconnect the light in the back and transfer the black boot on the back of the old light to the new light, once this is done follow this process in reverse. You will probably drop a few screws behind the light as I did, if they dont find there way to the street you can remove the black shroud below the bumper with the same screw driver with no problems. I cant tell you which head light to buy but anyone at Lordco or Canadian Tire can. Good Luck EG

A lot less then they cost now!!!!!!!!!

Look at your title and there will be a weight fee category number and that two digit number is the purchase price for the car. Like my 1992 prelude weight fee is 19. So the car cost $19,000.00 new.

With the 2.0 and 2.1 the only tranny that will swap is from the 2.0 or 2.1

under the dash left side by your left knee as seated.

It's afraid

it could be coming from behind your timing cover, if so, it is the cam or crankshaft seals. it may also be an oil pan gasket.

To turn off the "maintenance required" light, it may go off for a short time IF you disconnect the negative terminal (car turned off) cable from the battery for ten seconds and then bolt the cable back on. It's highly likely this WILL NOT WORK as the computers are programmed to "release" the maintenance light with some special wizardry from a Honda dealer. BETTER IDEA. Call your local auto parts store and ask one of the employees. It's my guess that they may recommend you go to the dealer and they will turn off the light for no charge. The parts department or service department may also let you know over the phone if you call the dealer. Good Luck!

the dipstick is at the top of the transmission housing near the corner of the battery that is clostest to the engine. i assume u mean how do u change the fluid. there is a drain plug near where the front right axle goes into the tranny. after drained there is a fill plug higher up on the tranny case above the front right axle. fill till fluid starts coming out of this hole (on a level surface).

by the hood lever in car there is a knob u turn and there are mmore fuzes?

(thats where more are this is an educated guess)

This is an edited version of my first reply. The relay should go out 3 - 4 seconds after the ignition key is switched to on. You probably already knew this, thus the reason for your question. TO ANSWER YOUR QUESTION: The fuel relay may be the culprit. If the problem occurs after the engine has been running for awhile and then is OK when the engine is cold, that is a big hint that the circuit board in the relay is cracked. The cracking is a problem for the Prelude and occurs because the electrical current, running through the relay when the engine is on, heats up the circuit board a little. The repeated heating/cooling cycle eventually causes the board to crack. It can be easily repaired using a soldering iron. FUEL RELAY OPERATION: The fuel relay coordinates the electrical signal to the fuel pump based on the electrical signal from the ignition switch. The fuel pump relay also supplies electrical power to the fuel injectors. RELAY LOCATION: The relay is located in the passenger compartment, under the dashboard, on the left wall, just forward of the engine-hood-release-lever. It is retained by a single bolt and has a cable harness attached. Before removing or replacing, there's an easy way to see if the relay is working properly: by detecting three (3) clicks the relay makes, as the key is turned. To detect the three clicks, put your fingers of your left hand on the relay as you turn the key and you can feel the clicks; you might be able to hear the clicks, but "touch" is really the best way. RELAY TEST: Start with the engine "off" and the key out of the ignition. Put the key in. Turn ignition to ON (but not to START): Click 1 //// PGM-EFI light goes off: Click 2 //// You now turn the key to START: Click 3. If the relay is going through its 3 clicks, then the relay is fine -- don't replace it. NOTE: the 3 clicks occur with only two movements of the ignition switch. One of the clicks occurs without moving the ignition switch (when PGM-FI light goes out). There is another check that's easy also of the relay/fuel pump and it goes as follows: FUEL PUMP TEST: At a location that's quiet so you can listen carefully to the fuel pump, with engine and ignition switch "off", sit in the car. Since the fuel pump is located behind the drivers door, open the driver's door about 8 to 12 inches. Turn the key to the first position and you should hear the fuel pump come on for a 3 - 4 seconds as it "charges" the fuel rail at the fuel injectors. You might be able to hear it with the door closed too. The sound comes from your left-rear and sounds like an electric "hum" for a few seconds. The PGM-EFI light should go off after the fuel pump charges the fuel line and goes off. If no hum, the relay is not sending a signal to the fuel pump and the car won't start, or the fuel pump is bad (unlikely). If the car starts, and the light is ON, that may be a defect in a board component in the relay. Z-machine

A NEW QUESTION APPEARED IN THIS QUESTION'S HISTORY SECTION:I have an 87 Honda prelude where the PGM-FI indicator in the dash works fine when i start driving but comes on after a few minutes. Your post says this can easily be repaired with a soldering iron. Can you be more specific?

What, exactly, does the PGM-FI light mean?? ANSWER:THIS QUESTION HAS TWO PARTS: 1. What are the specifics regarding the soldering of the relay as a repair, and 2.)What does the PGM-FI light mean?FIRST QUESTION: The soldering-repair of the circuit board for the fuel pump relay is accomplished by pulling the relay out of the vehicle and using a 25Watt soldering iron with 60/40 electrical solder to heat up and RESOLDER ALL SOLDER POINTS. DO NOT let the iron stay on the joint for more than a few seconds because you can damage the electrical components from the heat which is conducted through the wiring to the electrical part. As you resolder each of the solder points, the solder should be shiny when done and be shaped like a "Hershey Kisses" candy. Don't lump a bunch of solder on the solder point or it will short out the components. If you have a "Solder-Sucker" device, remove the old solder first(heat and suck)and then put on new solder. I removed my solder first and then resoldered the connection points. It works fine now.SECOND QUESTION: The PGM-FI light is designed to alert the driver that the fuel system is improperly pressurized or that the fuel injectors have a problem. SOLUTION: With the car parked, and engine warmed-up, see if the light comes on. If it does, check the fuel injectors to see if they're working right. You can buy a doctor's stethoscope for cars with a metal stick-probe that you place on the injector to hear it clicking. You can also take a wire hanger, straightened-out; put one end on an injector and "listen" to the clicks by placing your ear on or near the wire. Don't stick the wire in your ear. You can also take a piece of rubber tubing, cheap cost, about 3/16" hole, and listen to it that way. The tubing can be purchased at any auto repair store for a dollar and it should be no longer than two feet long.DISCUSSION: The fact that the car still runs after the light comes on, doesn't necessarily mean it's the injectors, the fuel pump, or the fuel-pump relay that are to blame. It could also be due to a faulty sensor. If there is a problem with the injector(s), then you are going to have a problem with fuel consumption or imbalance in cylinder firing forces. The computer may try to compensate but I don't know if the computer would compensate by changing the good injector(s) as well as the "defective" one. There's also the fuel filter. If it's clogged enough to prevent the fuel from passing fully, that may cause a "running" problem. Finally, it's possible that an injector system may be clogged and need cleaning. Injectors are expensive ($50 each) and the replacement requires depressurizing the fuel rail. Z-machine

you need a new car. you need a new car.