Honda Prelude SI

full exhaust

and anything else to help air flow

IT the back of the speed cluster the spring is war out GO to the junkyard easy fiX

should be a b20, (2.0) on the web it says the 89 prelude has a B20A5 in the SI model. dont be get the B20A mixed up with the b20 because the b20 is a civic motor.

Yes it will but your lights will be different.

how to make base prelude h22a engine on type sh 5 speed trans

^^^???

to answer the question. yes a sh transmission with "atts" unit will fit a base prelude (if a h22 motor is used)

is it worth it? absolutely not

It is right next to your foot on the wall by your drivers side door it has a big plug going into it. In my car it is blue

This is from experience. There is a rubber "S" shaped vacuum tube about 8 inches long under the intake manifold close to the firewall. It cracks over time and causes a vacuum leak that will drive you crazy, (rough idle, dies at lights, runs perfect above idle). Most mechanics seem to miss that one somehow. Very difficult to replace. Need very small hands. 4MRMIKE

about 2 quarts of Honda MTF

Easy There is no transmissin dipstick on the Honda Prelude Model. The Hondas I have owned do not have Dipsticks. All Three of them that I have owned have had 2 Bolts in the transmission. One bolt the top one is the filler bolt the other..Lower one the drain bolt. To check the tranny fluid level you remove the filler bolt and there should be fluid if you stick your finger in the hole and down a little if you dont feel fluid or your finger doesnt get immersed in the fluid then you will need to add some until it overflows out of the hold then you know you have enough. Hope this helps

For ease of installation, less problems, more reliabilty when done the rule of thumb is find the same year,make model & engine size (by vin #, 8th digit is engine, 10th is year). and put in exactly what you take out.

My '87 Prelude has an access hole in the engine compartment on the passenger's side. It is located on top of the transaxle and is a bit difficult to reach. It is a 1" diameter, silver colored, metal cap with a raised tab about 1/2" high, bisecting the center of the cap. Mine is accessed by reaching down about 15" below the top of the engine, almost midway between the firewall and radiator, but about 12" rearward of the radiator. It is located about 8 inches from the passenger side fender well and you will be best served by removing the air intake assembly tube which comes from the air filter. YOU WILL HAVE TO REACH DOWN NEAR THE UPPER RADIATOR HOSE which has burned my arm when accessing the cap on a warmed-up engine. I use a funnel with a long tube to do the refill. THE TRANSAXLE CAP HAS A BUILT IN DIP STICK ABOUT 2" LONG. You remove the cap, wipe off the dipstick and put the cap back but do NOT screw it back in. Just let the cap touch the top of the transaxle and then pull it up to see the fluid level.

the ECU is located in the dash, most likely on the driver's side.

Passenger side pull up the carpet remove the kick plate and it should be right under there. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING TO THE ECU.

If the transmission is a manual, then perhaps the pressure plate (rebuilt is ok) was not changed when the clutch was installed (mistake). THE FOLLOWING IS FOR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS. When the transmission fluid gets hot, it becomes, "thinner", which affects the pressure characteristics of the fluid. As transmission fluid is used, it gets hot and then cools. This repeats every time the vehicle is used. That hot/cold process causes atmospheric moisture to condense out into the fluid. So water begins to build up and the fluid "wears out". So, CHANGE THE TRANSMISSION FLUID. DO NOT GET THE TRANSMISSION FLUSHED. DO NOT GET A TRANSMISSION "FLUSH" JOB. The flush process claims that it removes more of the fluid in the transmission (true) but it also can cause problems due to the chemicals and "hot" temperatures they use. Some parts in the transmission are damaged by this process and the transmission falls apart. This happened to me and I found a bunch of needle bearings in the transmission pan because the "cage" that held the bearings was made of a high endurance plastic. That plastic can withstand the high temperature and pressure normally found in the transmission, BUT not the flush chemicals used to clean the tranny. If you already gave it a flush, sell the car NOW! If you don't sell it, it's going to be at least $2000 to fix it. It's going to cost $500 just to tear it down and analyze it. And if you're into it that far, that's the time to change your first and reverse gears as well as ALL the synchronizers (synchros). If you already changed the fluid, and it is still slipping, you can change the fluid again and that may help. If not, then you'll have to take it to a transmission shop that specializes in transmissions. Sometimes, they may find the problem is ELECTRONIC due to a failure of the electrical solenoids used to operate the transmission. If they determine that, the cost is cheap compared to what it costs to a rebuild. Be sure you go to at least 3 different shops if they tell you it must be rebuilt to verify they're telling the truth. As a side note, be sure you go to your local Auto Zone and use their free analyzer for your vehicle's computer. Write down any codes that appear and check them in your manual or online. Codes can be stored for your review even if the dashboard light does not come on. A bit more information if it is a manual transmission. One cause of slipping when hot is if the clutch free play is not correctly adjusted. Insufficient free play will allow the clutch to slip when changing gears, and it gets worse as you drive farther (warm up). The adjustment is by adjusting the lock nut on the clutch master cylinder rod where it comes through the firewall above the accelerator (on my 88 prelude).

try the12volt.com i know for a fact thay have one Try http://www.ahdol.com/ for the diagram.

Just my two cents but... it's possibly the same "main relay" problem which plagues many of the Hondas around that time-frame. Hot weather non-starting is usually caused by a faulty main relay. A new relay fixed my '90 Civic. Good luck. The main relay is what sends power to the fuel pump and ignition. If it's faulty, the engine will crank and crank but won't fire. I believe the main relay is typically under the dash on the driver's side. Note that it's inside the car, so it's the interior temperature that causes this problem. As a temporary solution if you're stranded somewhere, simply air out the car as best as possible and it should start again. The solder joints connecting the relay to its little circuit board crack, and in high temperatures will pull apart so the relay loses contact and can't function. One option is to replace the relay with a new one, but that will run you $70 or so. (!) A simple alternative is to just resolder the pins. Re-melt the solder on EVERY pin even if they don't look bad to the naked eye. Pop it back in and you're good as new.

FI = fuel injection.

Your engine might have the letters "PGM-FI" on it. This means "Programmed Fuel Injection." Honda invented a fully programmable fuel injection computer. Because the characteristics of the engine - number of cylinders, displacement, horsepower, etc. - are all controlled by software, this one box will work on any fuel injected Honda engine from motorcycles to Indy cars.

My suggestion would be to take it to a mechanic and pay the 50-60 bucks and some sort of guarantee!

In the trunk of your car lift the "floor" (Carpet & press board) you will see 2 round sealed ports, in the back close to the rear seat area. I'm pretty sure it is the one on the left. Remove the seal and just pull up the pump. I know it is that easy.(My daughter did it herself)

Relay-Fuel Pump-Prelude For my 1988 Prelude, the fuel pump relay is located under the dash, driver's side, to the left of the pedal area, on the left wall, about 6"-10" up from the carpet. It is a small, black box, about 3" by 2". It is a main relay for the vehicle which includes the fuel pump relay. It has one bolt, that when loosened, removes through a hole in a metal bracket that is attached to the outside of the box. I think I used an 8 or 10 millimeter socket to remove it. There may be an electrical schematic drawn on the outside of the box. The relay is testable using your battery as a power source for 12V and using 2 jumper wires composed of alligator clips at each end of the 6" - 10" wires (minimum 18 gauge wire). The Haynes manual provides an excellent way to determine which electrical terminal requires one wire hooked to 12 Volt and which terminals should be jumped. When doing the test, the relay will actually make an audible "click" when operating correctly. Often, this relay is subject to electrical heating and then when the car is turned off, it cools. This causes the solder joints to crack. A defective circuit board can be quickly and easily repaired with a soldering iron by quickly reheating the solder joints on the back of the board. This has been a problem with the fuel pump relays which are "defective", but easily repaired. I did mine and the removal, soldering, replacement was less than an hour.

More than likely its the Vehicle Speed Sensor should be located on the passenger side of the engine near the back top part of the transaxle if I remember correctly it has three 10mm bolts holding it in. DO NOT LOSE THE SMALL PIN THAT SPINS INSIDE.

If you are replacing a H22 engine with a later H22 variant it can be done but requires other items to be replaced. Research research research, check the car forums.