Honda Prelude SI

Speedos are brief like swimwear. Most people that wear speedos are professional swimmers, divers, and water polo players. In the United States most people do not wear speedos as recrational swimwear.

Speedo is a brand name of a company the produces swimwear. The term became used as a general definition of swimwear that resembles a bikini bottom that men, or boys, wear as a bathing suit.. It can be considered very revealing, especially when wet. Boys, these days, tend to wear baggy shorts styled swimwear known also as boardies. When I was a kid, just about all my friends wore speedos. I wore the baggy shorts.

it realies on the ABS cable front offside to work you will probably find that the cable has rubbed against the wheel and worn the cable through, i assume you have an ABS light on the dash board also Cheers Carl mrcapage"msn.com let me know

Tools needed: beer, patience, 14mm socket, 12mm box end wrench (ratcheting preferred); 12mm socket and ratchet; 10mm box end and socket; white paint marker pen; pb blaster (or wd40); nose pliers for hose clamps, courage.

1. Disconnect the battery negative terminal and move it out of the way so there is no possibility of it reconnecting inadvertently and showering you with spark!

2. Mark each of the vacuum hoses connected to the air cleaner housing and to the intake manifold - doing this will help immensely with getting everything back together correctly when memory fails! A white marker paint pen works wonders. Alternatively, the ubiquitous cell phone, to take digital pictures as a record of where everything fits, is a marvelous tool...different strokes..!

3. Carefully disconnect the two or three vacuum hoses going to the air cleaner housing (2), and about 4 connected to the driver side of the air intake manifold and move them out of the way; The idea is to get enough space to work on the alternator mounting bolts;

4. Undo the five quick release clamps (1 on top) from the air filter housing cover and remove the air-cleaner/filter and cover from near the firewall; there should be two clamps on the driver side and two on the passenger side. The inclination to "horse" things off means something is still connected.

5. Once the air filter and housing cover are removed, move to the passenger side fender and look down into the maw of the beast. At bottom right of the air filter housing base, there should be a quick release circular clamp securing an air intake hose (about 2.5 inches) to the air intake housing. Undo the clamp;

6. Next, to remove the air cleaner housing base -- remove the two stainless/chrome bolts and washers (the washers cover rubber grommets and can fall into the abyss and be lost forever, so be careful!) at the top of the housing -- there should be a ground wire connected from the firewall to the driver side housing bolt. Again, be sure to undo the quick release clamp from the bottom air pipe before trying to remove the air cleaner housing base - it is not obvious! Once the top two bolts are removed gently wiggle the air cleaner base off the back of the intake manifold; there are two rubber grommets in two plastic holders that keep the air housing base rattle-free and secure; wiggling it gently up and back toward the firewall will get it off...whew!!!

7. Locate the alternator mounting bracket - it is sort of triangular and is right above the water pump near the driver side fender; loosen the alternator tensioner nut (12mm) - it is on the longish bolt facing the firewall and is right near the water pump belt near the driver side firewall; using a 12mm box end wrench loosen the bolt that holds the alternator to the mounting bracket in front (engine side) of the tensioner bolt. This is a POS (read that piece of s***) bolt and takes forever to loosen because of the lack of space and inability to get a socket wrench in. If you have a 12mm ratcheting box end wrench, use it; will make it quicker, easier, and less of a b****!

8. After loosening the alternator mounting bolt and tensioner bolt, push the alternator toward the engine (toward the front of the engine bay) and slip off the drive belt from the pulley. If the alternator does not move forward, the lower mounting bolt is tight and will need to be loosened.

9. Fit a shallow 14mm socket onto a wrench, and feel around under the alternator mount for the second mounting bolt nut; place it on the nut and loosen the nut (counterclockwise direction). Loose now? Good! Don't remove the lower mounting bolt yet!

10. Using a 10mm socket, undo the bolt holding the two thick covered cable bunches attached to the intake manifold and put in a safe place; one of these wrapped cables comes from the driver side fender and the other from the top of the intake manifold; a bracket holds these two in place at the driver's side of the intake manifold. They only need to be moved a little bit, so don't' horse them around in any way -- bad karma!

11. Next, pivot the alternator back toward the firewall -- the loosened cables should now allow room to move the alternator out to where it is accessible! Using a 10mm socket undo the nut holding the wire at the top of the alternator and disconnect the wire. Now, reach under the alternator and pull out the long 2nd mounting bolt -- it has a large square head.

12. Now for the hardest part -- the main connector was a PITA, and only because I am filled with grace was I able to disconnect it without breaking it (or using very descriptive and highly colorful and imaginary language). This is the largish green plug with about four wires coming out of it. If the bottom mounting bolt is removed, the alternator can be twisted up so the back is clearly visible. The green plug has a thin plastic release bar that needs to be pressed down while pulling the plug out at the same time.

the best swap would be a JDM vtec 2.2 liter. you can get a 2.2 liter vtec out of something like a 2001 Honda prelude but you would have to do the wiring harness

no if it wont turn over its either the starter motor or the starter relay in the fuse box

According to a chiltons manual for a 96-00 prelude the firing order is 1-3-4-2

you need to adjust the valves

Well it depends on many more things than just the cubature of the engine, the only way to know exactly is to find the manufacturers info or take it to a specialized shop to be tested.

vss= vehicle speed sensor. try the wheel.. id say there is nothing wrong with the sensor itself.. try the wiring

Is it leaking motor oil or transmission fluid?

Transmission fluid and coolant could be a bad radiator

Engine oil and coolant could be a leaking head gasket==================================================Are you ready for this?

Coolant is for cooling, oil is for lubricating two completely different jobs. If the two become mixed it is due to a "void" occurring between the passages where the two different liquids flow. 99% of time this void is due to 1 of 3 things:A warped cylinder head surfaceA failed cylinder head gasketA corroded cylinder headEach of these conditions allows water and oil to mix and ends up with water in your oil turning it a milkish grey appearance or with oil in the water, same color but thinner consistency.

The cause is almost always due to overheating of the engine. The alumninum heads used by Asian vehicle mnufacturers are very unforgiving where heat is concerned and as such are especially prone to warpage.

You need to be more specific about a couple of areas of your question, first:

Is the color of the mixture as that I described above-milky grey with consistency of (pardon my vernacular) baby poo?remove the dipstick and check the level of your oil and the COLOR (milky white?), if a large internal leak occured, your oil level will read above normal (due to the addition of water in the oil pan), Next remove the oil filler cap on the top of the valve cover and look inside with a light and at the underside of the cap. Milky white? and lots of it? If you answered yes to any of the above ??'s Chances are better than 90% you've got an internal leak.

Your question stated your "leaking" a mixture of coolant and water, is the leak occurring at the front or rear seal? (fron (passenger tire) or rear middle of vehicl where engine joins trans. If neither, where? The fact that a leak is occurring could be indicative of an overfilled oil pan (addition of water, right?) and is seeking a way to get out (front /rear seals). Any time water gets in with the oil the risk of inadequate lubrication occurring at any of the high friction points ie, crankshaft bearings, cam bearings and pistons makes for some very tough decisions.

Do I play it safe and do it right by biting the bullet and dissasemble and clean all the inner components? By that time though another decision needs to be made, if not made already, that being do I go ahead and rebuild the engine? The truth is, it would be foolish not to as you're already into it laborwise for the engine removal and disssembly and you'd be out little more than the cost of a few more parts and the expense of the machine work.

Other option: Gamble on saving some money and time and hope for the best (that no damage has been done and you'll be able to clean out the remaining water mixture before any damage occurs). At the least you'll need to pull off the oil pan, valve cover and oil pump and clean thoroughly refilling with oil and install a new oil filter. Then with the coil wire removed from the distributor and grounded, crank the engine over and over till the starter gets hot, then let it cool and do it again. Next change the oil Attach an ACCURATE oil pressure gauge , run it for a few minutes (if the pressure is normal), then change oil and filter again and hope for the best. You'll know in a couple hundred miles if everything is okay and that the aforementioned bearings have received the proper lubrication (nothing will seize).

I'd keep a pretty close watch on everything and attach a pressure gauge in a week or so and changing oil and filter again, cheap insurance. Good luck, rm

15 dollar vehicle spacific repair manual at most parts stores

Take the dash panel off under the steering column. There should be four 10mm bolts holding it in place. Then look reach up under the dash and your speedometer cable is connected to the left hand side of the instrument cluster when looking at the cluster. Towards the outside of the car if looking at the cluster from the bottom. The Cable is at least 3/8" thick and black. Grab it as close to the instrument cluster as possible and gently pull it out. Then open the hood and locate the cord underneath the windshield wiper motor. It may make it easier to remove the windshield wiper motor, but it's not critical. Find the cable and follow it. Keep following the cable through the engine bay disconnecting it from its little mounting points along the way until you get to the other end which is located on the back side of the transmission under the carbs. BEWARE the end that connects to the transmission has a small clip that holds it in place. Use a needle nose pliers or some other tool to remove this clip and place it in a safe place in case you need to use it again. Reach down and grasp the end as close to where it connects as you can and again gently pull on it until it comes out. Since both ends of the cable are now free, go back to the inside of the car by the instrument cluster and pull the cable all the way through the firewall from this side. Now that you have the old cable removed just reverse the process to install your new cable. The first time I replaced a speedometer cable on my 85 Prelude i lost my little clip and didn't install it. My speedometer still worked but it would stop working every once in a while for a mile or two. and good luck.

Tricks of the trade:

-Remove Wiper Motor for easy access to the firewall

-Remove air vent that is directly above speedometer cable in engine bay for easy access to that end of speedometer cable

-My speedometer cable broke directly at the end so to get the end out of the transmission, I used a magnet. The end popped right out.

-When ordering a new cable, measure the length of your existing one. I needed a 75" cable versus the 105" one.

-When putting the new cable in, you may have to finagle it to get it into the transmission. Keep working on it though, it'll go eventually.

-Good luck!

==new answer== I have a 1990 prelude and have recently experienced the same problem. It was the speed sensor. Honda's manuals said it was located in the speedo head assembly. But it was, in fact,located on the transmition! For the 1987 Prelude, a problem where speed and odometer readings are not appearing on the dash is likely caused by a problem with the speedometer cable. This assumes you have a mechanical system -- not electronic. If you have an electronic system, I am at a loss to help, aside from checking the fuse or OBD II. If you have a mechanical speedometer cable, the cable is connected to the back of the dashboard and pokes through the firewall in the engine compartment on the driver's side. The cable is probably black and about the size (diameter) of an ordinary pencil. From it's appearance in the engine compartment, it runs forward for about 16" and then goes across the engine to the passenger side and down to the top of the transmission. THIS IS PROBABLY WHERE THE PROBLEM IS. The cable connection has come loose. There's a (VERY) tiny clip that holds that connector onto the top of the tranny. If it is lost, buy a couple extras from the dealer. Push the cable down into the top of the transmission and while pulling the protective boot up, slip the clip around the cable connector notch. This clip will retain the cable in place. Lower the boot over the clip--you may need a hook-like device to pull the boot over the clip and connector. I found this somewhat difficult. However, when first inspecting the cable, MAYBE, just MAYBE, the clip is still attached to the end of the cable. So be careful when pulling the protective boot out of the way. Other possibilities, the cable is broken and a new one will have to be installed. I would guess a new cable costs $50 to $60. Another possibility is that the cable is disconnected at the dashboard. This probably would require accessing the back of the dashboard from underneath the driver's pedals, or worse, removing the dashboard itself. If the book says to do the latter, I'd seriously consider getting an estimate to have this done instead of doing it myself, but that's just me.

it is on passanger side floorboard on side of console

Yes, but it requires some engineering know how. First, you need to consider the 3 essentials the engine needs to operate; spark, gas, and motion (starter). For the spark, you'll need to bypass the coil and wire it thru a switch to the battery. Then you need to time the spark from the coil going into the center terminal on the distributor cap. You can do this by making a 'bump' on the rotor that opens a makeshift switch inside the distributor cap. The coil will discharge when the switch opens, sending spark to the plugs. This is how the old carburetor engines worked and this 'switch' was called the points. Next you need to have fuel available in a jar near the engine. Use a vacuum line to allow the engine vacuum to suck in the fuel as it needs it from this jar. Finally, pour a teaspoon of gas into the throttle body and then start it up. The starter should turn over without the ECU. Granted this is very primitive, but should work with adjustments to the 'points' and fuel orifice. This setup will not last long and the engine will run very poorly with none of the sensors operating and the timing being your best guess. You might also destroy you catalytic converter, so don't try this on a 'good' car.

If you have clearance just remove bolts

Because of low sales and that Honda didn't find room for the sporty two-door in their product lineup.

The front seats can be swapped out. The rear seats however cannot, as the 92 model had a partition down the middle, while later models in that generation had a more standard seat setup.

This is most likely the cable that runs from the speedo to the odo. As it ages, the lubricany dries up and the cable drags and sometimes starts to kink. You can replace this cable by removing the speedo cable from the head and the mount on the transmission (w/ the speed sensor)(mounted on the passenger side of the car right above the halfshaft). Remove the speed sensor and pull the cable out from the trans end. The new cable will be fed from the trans end back up to the speedo. Reattach the speed sensor and mount onto the trans. Install the cable back on the head and you shoudl good to go.

1. Remove the drain plug and drain the oil from the pan. 2. Remove the bolts on the perimiter of the oil pan. 3. Remove the oil pand and its gasket. 4. Install new gasket. 5. Install new oil pan. 6. Install new (or use existing drain plug). 7. OPTIONAL: now is a good time to replace the oil filter. 8. Fill appropriately with oil.

The 5th Generation SH prelude came with an "Active Torque Transfer System"

Which allowed power to be re-distributed between the inner and outer wheel during cornering improving the vehicle's handling.

ATTS is the most notable difference however there were some smaller changes.

It seems the s3 light is an electronic overdrive,when 2nd gear is engaged and the button at front of gear change shifter is pressed it lowers the revs for quieter cruising,when the button is pressed again and the s3 light goes out you'll see the revs lower for faster acceleration

The S3/S4 lights in the gear indicator sequence mean the car is equipped with a semi-manual shift option, based on Porsche's Tiptronic(R) design. It allows the driver to choose to downshift (for rapid acceleration as in passing or whatnot) by pressing the trigger on the front of the shifter, in order to increase speed quickly. It is programmed with an "idiot-proof" override - if you don't shift when the computer knows you need to it will upshift for you, that way you can't fry the tranny by revving too high. Honda's version goes by the names: iShift, S-matic, MultiMatic. There's a good description on Wikipedia - see Tiptronic. It's meant to increase the fun and allow the driver some of the joy of "manual" transmission without the clutch pedal and decision making of full manual.

There is no resetting a fuel guage. It either works or it doesn't.