Honda Prelude SI

I am also a circle track racer and it appears you will need to purchase a camber kit. It is an adjustable ball joint and will cost between 150 to 200 bucks.

How hard would it be to replace oil pan on 1996 Sonoma?

I had a similar problem on my Punto, turned out to be a sticking EGR (Exhaust Gas Re-cirulation) valve. The valve was staying open and suffocating the engine, the ECU forces the engine into a type of 'panic mode' providing more fuel to make up for the "missing air", which is why the revs increase which clears the problem momentarily. You'll find that your fuel usage will have increased too. I would recommend you find a garage that does diagnostics which will identify the failing part. A good garage will charge you about 40 to 50 quid for the diags, and they can recommend replacement components to resolve the issue. The garage I went to actually removed the valve, cleaned it and put it back in. Fiat will charge more for the diagnostic, replace the component no matter what condition it is in, and only use Fiat parts that could be expensive. Hope this puts you in the right direction anyway. Danneey

You don't indicate if the vehicle was recently driven. I assume it was not recently driven and it takes a longer period of time to ignite. It's likely that this is because the engine is not getting enough fuel. This occurs because the onboard diagnostic (OBD II) "reads" the engine as NOT needing a "richer" mixture, as during a "cold" start. The possible causes are many. SOLUTION: Assuming the plugs, wires, valves and air filter, are in their correct operating configuration, there is a technique you can try that may help. When you turn the ignition key on, stop at the point just before the car is asked to turn over. You will see the dashboard fully lit. Stay there for about 5 seconds. This lets the fuel pump "charge up" the fuel rail and push as much fuel as possible into the cylinders. Then turn the key to the position that starts the engine. IF THAT DOESN'T WORK, check your air filter and wires. The valves should be adjusted if those items check out. You should be able to remove the air filter, hold it up to sunlight and see the sun's core. The wires can be tested with an ohmmeter - you'll have to ask me about that later. The valves are adjusted with the engine cool.

A lot! This all depends on the type and size of the supercharger.

At boost levels of 7psi you can expect around a 40-45% increase in HP. At 15psi you can expect around 100% increase in HP. HP really depends on boost levels and existing engine HP.

It's in the steering column. You can access it from under the steering column. It's light gray in color and on the left side.

you have to pull the dash around the cluster out (i believe its only 2 screws and the rest is just clips!then the glass is held in by 6 or 7 torex screws!pull the glass off then the plastic behind it and each guage should just pop out!its really easy!bulbs are right there now!

On/by the Throttle body, should read "sensor assy map"

the head gasket in any vehicle is located within the engine compartment. Since it's a 4 cyl engine, there'll be 4 gaskets spaces, although the head gasket is a singular unit. You'll have to "drop the engine", which really means raising it. Then, dismantle, and replace. Pain in the a$$...I had that prob w/ a 91 Ford, and in that particular vehicle, it wasn't worth the effort. I also recommend going into your nearest Honda dealer, specifically to the parts dept., and request to see the SHOP MANUAL for your year of Honda Prelude. Most of the time, they'll let you go through it, and even photocopy any pages you might need, free of charge.-Callie * I did mine without removing the engine, but it's not very much fun. Just make sure you clearly label where all the vacuum hoses, etc. It makes re-assembly a lot easier. Remember, you have to remove all of the old gasket from the head and the block before re-installing everything or it won't seal right. The aluminum scratches very easily so try not to take too much off or put any deep scratches in them. Also, you *have* to use new head bolts and *have* to use a torque wrench. Look in the shop manual and it will show you the order to tighten them in and the torque specs. If you don't follow them you'll have problems down the road after the head gets hot and cold a few times. (And then you'll get to do it again. yay!)

You're probably talking about an "inertia switch" - sorry, I'm not sure if anyone besides Ford uses them for sure. Your owner's manual should tell you.

Check the "master relay" that controls the fuel pump. It's located inside the vehicle, on the driver's side, down low (just below the instrument panel), on the left kick panel, secured by a bolt. The relay is about 2" square, 1.5" high, black plastic, with a metal tab that allows the bolt to pass through the tab's bolt hole. The bolt head is probably an 8mm or 10mm socket size. Once the relay is removed, it can be tested by taking it to over to the car's battery, and leads attached to the battery, so as to listen for proper relay action. ANOTHER IDEA: The fuel pressure monitor at the end of the fuel rail (has small vacuum hose) may be defective. The fuel light may be staying on because the injectors are not fully pressurized. The light should go on when the ignition switch goes to the first (not start) position, which activates the fuel pump to pressurize the fuel rail. As soon as the fuel rail is pressurized, the light should go off, and the ignition switched to the "start", the engine starting quickly. So, get the fuel pressure regulator checked after putting a new hose on it to see if it might be a vacuum problem first.

ther is a switch in side the car on the brake pedel more than likely it is sticking if you lift the pedel the lights should go out ==More Info== The previous respondant is correct about the brake switch. It is located under the dash, behind the brake pedal's arm that comes down from the arm's pivot point above. The switch has a little spring-loaded plunger that the arm presses "in" when you put your foot on the brake. The switch has a threaded portion on the body with a nut you can loosen. I believe the switch has "disconnect-able" wires so you can pull it out for inspection, repair, or replacement. The plunger may be dirty or roughened up in which case you can clean and recheck for smooth action before returning it to service in your vehicle. If you have a continuity tester, you can check for continuity as the plunger goes in and out to make sure it's working right. There is one other possiblity, the body of the switch may be adjustable to make sure the brake pedal is going to be able to press it in when you brake and let it out all the way when you take your foot off. The threaded part of the switch may allow adjustment of the switch so the plunger is fully extended when the brake arm is at its normal return position. If the pedal is still pushing on the plunger when your foot off the pedal, then you may be able to adjust the body of the switch so that the plunger is allowed to fully extend when there is no force on the pedal. This will allow the switch to "open" and turn the brake lights off. ther is a switch in side the car on the brake pedel more than likely it is sticking if you lift the pedel the lights should go out

Fuel relay under the dash.

on the shifter push the button on the left side. If that does not work disconnect battery for a few minutes.

On my kia when the hold button kept flashing and stayed on I discovered that my transmission fluid was low. Once i put the transmission fluid in the light went off.

Trans fluid. On the 97-2001 thr is no trans dip. Only a bolt under the car you stick your finger in to check level. So if you have two dips one for oil the other is for trans. Ludekrs

Is it possible for the ECU to have a single defect with the car continuing to operate? POSSIBLE? Yes. PROBABLE No. The actual defect rate for vehicle onboard computers is EXTREMELY RARE. If a mechanic is telling you this, run the other way. However, a sensor that sends the computer its data can be defective; or, defective only at times, working OK at other times. Get another evaluation and DO NOT SAY ANYTHING ABOUT THE FIRST DIAGNOSIS. Don't help them in any way. Let them analyze the problem without input from you. DON'T KEEP ANY PAPERWORK FROM OTHER EVALUATIONS IN YOUR GLOVE COMPARTMENT. THAT'S ONE OF THE PLACES THEY LOOK TO SEE IF YOU WENT TO ANOTHER SHOP. THEY KNOW A HIGH-COST REPAIR WILL SEND YOU TO THEM -- AND THEY KNOW YOU ARE FAR MORE LIKELY TO SPEND YOUR MONEY AT THE LAST PLACE YOU ARE AT, RATHER THAN TAKE YOUR CAR BACK TO THE FIRST PLACE.

buy a hanes book

look in your door jam it will tell you on the tire tag

Check the button on the right side of the gauge cluster, if that still does not fix the problem check the relays under the hood marked "right retractor motor" and "left retractor motor". There are also fuses for the motors underneath the dash.

passenger side kick panel

The answer depends upon the displacement of the engine, type of piping used, composition of the muffler, exhaust type, and whether the vehicle is naturally aspirated or uses forced induction.

The OBD2 plug is located under the drink holder under the center console.

there are actually 4 injectors on a Honda prelude if its a four cylinder car and are located behind the valve cover if looking under your hood looks like a rail with 4 points toward the valve cover. jenny