Isuzu Trooper

camviar el compresor de una van 2005ford freestare

video

(Standing in front of the vehicle looking at the motor)

1st cyl. is passenger side closest to the fan3rd cyl. is behind first5th is cyl. behind 3rd closest to the firewall.

the right side of the motor.( your right still facing the vehicle)2nd cyl. is driver side closest to the fan4th cyl. is behind 2nd.6th cyl. is behind 4th. closest to the firewall.

On the inside of the distributor cap, there should be a #1 marked on the plastic roof of the cap.That is the first plug wire to connect to the 1st cyl.the firing order of the distributor is 1,2,3,4,5,6 starting at the first one and continuing around clockwise.

the 2nd cylinder wire on the distributor cap will be facing the left side of the motor; it will need to cross over the right side and looks kind of out of place but that's OK.the same with the 5th cyl., it will cross over to the other side and look out of place but that's OK.

summary.

Facing the motor. Cylinders 1,3,5 are on the left #1 is closest to the fan.Cylinders 2,4,6 are on the right #2 is closest to te fan.

Distributor cap is 1-6 clockwise starting at the #1 wich is inside of the cap.

Ours was simple... as in 95% of ALL car problems. Usually just hard to determine what 'exactly' is wrong in the first place. New plugs made ours run 1000% better. Wires didn't help, but if you're replacing plugs, especially 'old' plugs, do the wires too. Check and clean the cap and rotor if any. The final problem was to get a new Cat. Converter and weld it on. (Light was coming on intermittently) Dokter Denney

located at the lower right corner on the car if you are standing directly in front

200hp

The Oxygen Senson #1 (Upstream) on a 1997 Isuzu Trooper is located under the vehicle and on top of the exhaust, just under the front passenger side. The easiest way to access and replace the O2 sensor, put the vehicle on a lift. Follow the exhaus pipe from the motor on the passenger side. There, you will see the #1 O2 sensor. First disconnect the o2's eletrical connection before removing (simple clip connector) An adjustable wrench will remove the O2. Replace with new O2, but do not overtighten! Reconnect the electrical connection. Done!

check the EGR valve it may be faulty staying stuck open during idle. Ticking usually means spark arcing, open hood at night with lights off to see if there's a 'blue' shorting. Check distributer cap, plug wires, plugs to make sure the system is NOT compromised. Wet plugs/wires from leaking oil? If you can't see it, then get a small to med hose and put it to your ear and aim other end of it around the engine to see where the noise is from. Never let a new noise go untreated! Dokter Denney Deff the EGR your ticking is prob a valve. I have seen many Troopers that tick. I recently replaced my lifters and the ticking subsided for a while but then came back only much quieter. It has ran years that way. I know people will freak when I say this but I run a 5w30 mobile synthetic oil and it seems to help get the oil where it needs to go.

(To) change the water pump and (time-strap?)

The ecm on a 93 trooper is located behind the center console. It is a silver box

Buy yourself a Hayne's or Chilton's repair manual at any auto parts store. Here you will find the info you are looking for.

Have the coolant temperature sensor checked, or replace it. (under the intake manifold)....The overdrive will not engage, unless the computer reads that the coolant temp. is at a certain level.

you may have to take the alternator belt off first. loosen the bolt that is in the slotted part of the alternator bracket and loosen the pivot bolt and nut that goes through the cast aluminum body of the alternator bolt heads are 9/16 or 5/8 inch. push on the alterator to loosen that belt enough to take off. now the pulley of the powersteering pump migh have holes in it get one about the 4 oclock position and you may see the bolt you need to loosen the pump up and pivot it to fit your belt on. if there are no holes in the pully simply look at the bracket that mounts the pump to the motor and find the bolt that has a slot behind it and that's the bolt you need to loosen up to pivot the pump and slide on a new belt. you will need some sort of pry bar to hold the new pump belt tight while you tighten the bolts back up. BE CAREFUL not to puncture your pump resovior or you will need a new pump because now it has a hole in it. put your alternator belt back on and use a pry bar to push in back into place and be careful not to pinch any wires when you do it. tighten bolts back up while holding pressure on the belt. when the car is running you should see very little vibrations in the belts and you know you have them tight enough.

In the fuel tank.

low compression=piston rings/sleeve is no good. which means the engine needs a complete overhaul. repair shop will charge anywhere around 2000 bucks for labour alone minimun. then you still have to buy all parts and supplies. your looking at spending alot of cash. better option if money is a problem is find an engine from a salvage yard or rebuild shop and have it put in. will be cheaper.

Simple, push the piston in slightly (there is a special tool available, borrow from the dealer?), remove the circlip, then start the vehicle. Put the vhicle in gear with the brakes applied and rev the motor slightly. The resistance against the brakes (if the vehicle is off the ground..) will cause the line pressure to build and pop the accumulator cover out. This is a messy one-person, no special-tool, kind of operation.. but it works 90% of the time. If the cover remains intact, you are left with either borrowing the tool or prying it out. If you attempt to pry it out, make triple sure you do not scratch the accumulator bore or no amount of new accumulator seals and four letter expletives will fix your leak!

when ignition is on it should be battery volts,when cranking in should pulse..(test with a led test light or osilliscope

on the left side of the transmission is a sensor. carefully remove it and pump/squeeze fluid in that opening up to the bottom of the hole. replace sensor.

Hi. Regret I can't answer your question, but I'm looking for a spare part (internal door surround) for my Cooktronic 719. Have you had any success with your own search?

Regards

Jim

j.mackay@homecall.co.uk

I also can not answer your question, but if Jim reads this I have a Cooktronic 719, that i would like to sell. dickgreen@fsmail.net

A rut

Ck battery

Just fixed the same problem with mine and its a bad alt . the votage regulator goes out on them and causes a bad ground to the rest of the system kepping the battery light on o2 light and brake light on also causes the trany light to flash. change the alt and it should be fine Just fixed the same problem with mine and its a bad alt . the votage regulator goes out on them and causes a bad ground to the rest of the system kepping the battery light on o2 light and brake light on also causes the trany light to flash. change the alt and it should be fine

yes

I have a 98 3.5L with 175,000 miles.

I just put my 2nd replacements - 3rd set overall.

Got the best buy at local autoparts - not the chains. Bought Denso which were less than Bosch etc and I believe Denso is OEM.

PS - they are fairly easy to replace, but get extension bars and a universal joint.

(Keep those receipts)

Is your clutch pedal depressed? If it is, check switch on clutch pedal.