Isuzu Trooper

Code 34 is MAP/EGR code. Take your EGR valve off and clean it VERY WELL with carb cleaner. Take battery cable off for 5min and depress brake pedal to kill power to the system. If the light comes back on within a few miles, then you need a new MAP sensor which is about $40.

1.5 qts of 80w90 oil 1.5 qtys of 80w90 weight oil

Anyplace or anyone who is selling used vehicles.

The 99 Trooper is considered a "sealed trans", it does not have an available dip stick to check the fluid levels. To add transmission fluid, locate the transmission main pan from under the vehicle. You will see 2 large bolts, one at the top corner of the pan, one at the bottom. The top is the fill plug, the bottom is the drain. To begin filling, make sure to chock the vehicle wheels on a level surface, leave the vehicle running in neutral with the handbrake ON. Remove the fill bolt and take notice if fluid dribbles out. If fluid gently dribbles out the transmission is filled to the proper level, if not fluid comes out then begin adding using a fluid pump.

Make sure you check/fill with the vehicle running in neutral. Fluid must be circulating to get an accurate reading.

If the transmission is a standard transmission, there should be a plug on the outside of it that would need to be removed and usually you would put your finger in to see where the fluid was and fill accordingly.

You can just change the bulb. Pop off the wiring harness, then it's a twist lock plastic piece and the bulb comes out. Replacements are about $6 at WalMart

I just want to clarify the problem. When it's cold it runs fine no problems shifts fine and everything is good , byt after about 25-30 of driving is when the problems begin.Wen I'm stepping on breakes and near the stopping speed my front end starts to shake and the same at take of speed near 2-3 mph and same at full stop trans in drive. When i shift to neutral and break i do not have any problem. Please let me know what you think.

if a automatic tranny is low on fluid it can cause what you are talking about.

if the shaking is when you are on the breaks than most likely it means you have bad rotors wich are the metal discs your brake pads grab onto to stop your vehicle. through time they get warped hence creating a woble when the pads are touching them. getting your rotors "turned" is cheap to do, turned meaning they machine them to a smooth surface again. if they are old just replace them.

also check your motor mounts. if those are bad even a smooth running vehicle will shake.

http://www.combitech.com.tw/combitech/fta_4jg2.htm

Take out the transmission and there it is. The flywheel holds the ring gear for the starter. If your ring gear has been obliterated by your starter you have an issue with how the starter engages the fly wheel to begin with. Proper clearances, alignment and securing of your starter will make your trooper whole agian.

The timing marks are located on the lower section of the timing belt cover above the crankshaft pulley. The mark is on the crankshaft pulley. The timing cannot be adjusted on the 3.2L engines. The timing is computer controlled by the ecm wich receives a signal from the crankshaft position sensor. The timing marks for the timing belt are on the camshaft pulleys ( aligned with dots on the front of the metal rear piece of the timing chain cover) and the lip behind the crankshaft timing belt pulley. It is a half circle slot that you align with a horizontal line on the oil pump at about 3 oclock ( right hand side ).

getting ready to put the motor from my 1989 Trooper into a 1986 Trooper II... will let you know how it goes!

No. Only when you check the level. It's just easier to leave it running so you can check it right away.

Not sure what you are referring to. On some transmissions it is the highest gear on others (8 and 9 speeds) it is a low gear.

Not sure what you are referring to. On some transmissions it is the highest gear on others (8 and 9 speeds) it is a low gear.

Winter drive - you must be going under 7 mph when you engage it. It keeps the SUV in 3rd gear (max ~ 40 mph) so that speed is reduced, control is better. Useful for when roads are slick with snow/ice, especially curvy, hilly roads. Power drive - gives slightly more power when accelerating. Increases the RPM's for each gear. Mileage will suffer, though.

Hey There: What year of trooper do you have????

1342

I would begin by unfortunately asking another question first. What is your experince level with pad and shoe replacement? Second I would advise the trip to the local parts store for one of Chiltons repair guides for your model and next listen to any advise the counter person has. Typically those folks have quite a bit of automotive experince and can save a lot of time and heartache with just a few words. Thirdly use good quality jack stands and a jack rated for the vehicle. Now then, while not being familiar with the 2003 model I will make a few assumptions and give you the standard truck with hub and shoes version. 1.Most important...level surface, break loose the lug nuts on the ground with the parking brake on as you will likely not be able to after it is off the ground...only crack them loose Do Not Back Them Off. 2. Chock front wheels take parking brake Off as it will prevent the hub removal later. 3. Jack up the wheel you will be working on and only do one side at a time (also a digital camera is great for reference if you do not have a picture or book to go by)MAKE SURE THE VEHICLE IS STABLE and on stands which are rated for its weight. 4.remove the lug nuts and wheel...now you are staring at the hub...it may be worn on the inside a little and the shoes may be inside a bit of a track making it difficult to remove. refrain from prying against the back plate as it is not really all that substantial. LIGHT tapping and I repeat LIGHT tapping around the outside of the drum sometimes shakes stubborn rotors...rubber mallet preffered. 5. once the (drum and hub...same thing)is off you should take note of the spring positions and at the top you will see the "wheel cylinder" it is the small deal (typically at the top with rubber ends that forces the shoes out to contact the hub)should be inspected...it should be dry..that is no break fluid..brake dust is going to be there..but if any fluid is around in there it will have to be replaced.6. now is the nice time to take a poloroid or digital photo so you know where things are and how they should look when you are finished...also now is the time for inspection of the inside of the hub..drum whichever you want to call it...its minimum thickness is often cast into the metal...if not the library or Chiltons manual will tell you if you are below that thickness...replace if needed..do not skimp on brake parts..they are far to important (a car that won't start is a bad thing.....a car that won't stop is a deadly thing.)7.brake spring pliers are available if you like at most auto stores and they make things easier...if that gets into the budget too much a good pair of regular pliers will work...carefully remove the springs noting their condition and position...if they look pitted..cracked..just plain not good replace them...spring kits are sold separately most of the time...in fact always in my experience.8. remove all the springs and shoes..the little coil springs with the cup retainers are usually the ones that cause the invention of new and exiting curse words...it sometimes helps to have a friend hold the nail looking rod while you turn the retaining cup...especially for installation.9. clean everything...do your best to keep any oil grease or fluid off of the new shoes as this will contaminate them and reduce their stopping power and longevity.10. Put her back together with those shiney new parts and refer to you own sketches..photos or manuals to see that everyting looks as it should and that the self adjuster rod...( the thing with the spur like wheel attached is contacting its actuator and that the parking brake cable...you will know it when you see it...is attached and looks like it should.11. put the hub(technically the hub is the flat plate with the lug bolts in it now that I think about it...)..put the drum back over it and access the adjuster wheel from the back side..adjust the new shoes until you just make contact with the hub. Replace the wheel and tighten the lug nuts as much as you can before returning the vehicle to the ground. Once back on the ground fully tighten the lugs in oposition to on another..no1.then6.then 2. then 4..my numbers are arbitrary...but you get what i mean..Now that side is done so go to the next one...it will be much easier now that you have the experience...mostly try to keep a cool head and frequent stops for walking around and regaining composure are perfectly o.k. ....it will keep you safe and cost you less in the long term...Good luck sincerely Randy R. Lex KY let me know how it comes out.....richardsonrandal@yahoo.com

sounds like transmission problems, probably need to have a professional look at it

Um... not sure I should answer this one.... Could lead to theft issue.. but... as this process takes a while.. maybe it wont... I hold NO legal liability for this one... Under the dash... follow the wires coming from the back of the 'key' box for the imobilizer. Then you should see where the wires are spliced into the main wiring harness. Disconnect there, and reattach the wires (should be black with a white stripe) Test the connection with a paper clip first. Unhood the harness, and push a paperclip between the connectors, try the key on the ignition, if it starts.. bango.

Go to autozone .com and look in the repair info .

If it is a v6 3.5l it is located under the throtle control on the front of the engine

Its under the intake

I had a Kia Sportage that needed a key.It cost me about a hundred and twenty five bucks for him to do it.I guess it depends where you live.This was in Connecticut.I hope this gives you a round about figure.Good luck!

The parts dealer at your model dealership can make a new key for $25.00 if you have your ownership paper work, vehicle Id numebr and and personal Id. The coded chip computer keys may well be high priced but there is no reason for that,

there are a couple of different factory carbs used and the parts store can tell you which one you have from the numbers on the carb, but weber makes a direct specific replacement carb for a 1987 2.3 gas trooper at about half the cost of a remanufactured OEM carb. The weber is a DGAS/ES 18930.032/020.

replace rear axle bearing

I have had shift problems with my trooper and eventually traced it to low battery voltage, ie failing battery or alternator, they record faults on the onboard trans computer also, so maybe a trip to the local agents and ask them to download the transmission faults and see if this helds your diagnosis in any way.