Jeep Cherokee Laredo

The Remote Control Batteries: The Lithium batteries should produce power for up to 5 years. To replace, pry open case with visor clip or screwdriver. Insert batteries positive side up (+). Dispose of old batteries properly.

try a computer link device , it will read any problems with engine.youcan get them at most auto part stores

My 1987 jeep had a similar problem. the wire leading down to the crank sensor (necessary for the engine to develop spark) was damp and grounding against the firewall. Tied it slightly away from the firewall w/ a tiewrap, and never had problem again (previously the dealer had replaced the crank sensor twice without the problem correcting itself)

On an automatic 1997 Jeep Cherokee with the inline 6 cyl 4.0L the neutral switch is combined with the Park and reverse switch. To repair the switch, unplug the harness from the top of the engine near the transmission dip stick. The switch is located on the passenger side of the transmission, right on the side. There is a bolt and a nut which must be removed, the bolt is for adjustment of the switch position and is near the top. The larger nut (Collet type) is near the bottom and is centered over an oval shaped shaft protruding from the transmission... BE WARNED!!!! these switches are VERY EXPENSIVE (~$160)!!!! so tread carefully and try not to break it. Mine was seized to the shaft and broke into about 8 pieces, luckily I have the know how to be able to repair them. You can free up the switch from the shaft with penetrating oil and pry against the loosened nut with a screwdriver while taping lightly on the shaft to back the switch off of the shaft. Inside the switch there is a problem where the grease gells over time and the wiper contacts stick away from the base contacts therefore they do not always make connection. Once you get the switch off in one piece, it is easily serviced by removing the screws on the back and slowly opening the case. Some of my screws were frozen and I had to break them off and drill out the holes, you may be lucky and get the screws out without this problem. When you have the switch apart I suggest you use a clean surface and put some cardboard down to catch any parts that fall out. Once open, you will see 2 copper wipe plates on the wiper arm, slowly remove them and under them you will see a spring for each side. Clean all the surfaces with brake cleaner or WD-40, you can burnish the contacts with a very fine 340 grit sandpaper. Once done reassemble putting a VERY thin layer of grease on the contacts to help prevent corrosion and allow the contacts to slide easier. Once you have put the module/switch back on make sure that the adjuster bolt is set in the right place... Put it on and make sure the reverse lights come on and it cranks in park. Tighten the adjuster bolt and put the nut back on and double check. NOTE: make sure you plug the harness back in or nothing will work lol. I want to add that the hardest part is getting the switch off. When you remove the Collet nut be sure to release it first by prying back the tabs on the retaining nut. (Note: when reinstalling, this nut is to be re-tightened to ONLY 5 INCH pounds!) After removal of the Collet nut, spray some parts buster or WD-40 onto the shaft area and let it sit. Put the Collet nut back on but not all the way tight and use a screw driver to pry the unit forward from the shaft SLOWLY!. Don't get carried away when it starts moving. When reinstalling put some never seize on the tranny output shaft in case you have to do this in the future.

first unhuck battery!! CAREFULLY take a jack under the tank lift the jack just enough to hold it and remove the straps holding the tank.slowly lower the tank and remove the hoses and electrical plugs.pull tank out where u can see what ur doing.i think their is a large threded nut like thing holding the pump and level sensor in the tank.get the nut thing off pull it out and the rest is prity self explanitory if u all ready have the new pump to look at.(yours may be difrent, but i doubt it)and for gods sake do it out side or in a WELL ventilated space with no open flame, sparks or any other source of ignition.and don't smoke!here in the town i live in we just lost our local napa because the shop was changing a fuel punp on a van and the guy forgot to unhuck the battery befor hand. burned it to the ground

To add more brake fluid, the containder is located under the air filter. You have to take off the air filter to get under enough to get to it.

I have a 2003 New Beetle convertible I've been fighting with this morning. When I removed the plenum, and kept looking, I did finally find the brake reservoir (yellow cap, under some stuff and way in back). It's hard to get to, but I was able to get the cap off. However, I had to go back to the auto parts store to get a funnel with a long neck because that's the only way to get the fluid in without taking a bunch of hoses off. It can be done. Next step is getting the cap back on because of the grooves and the tightness of its location. Not fun.

To remove rear wheel bearings, first jack the car up so that the rear wheels are off the ground. Then grip the rear tires at 6 and 12 o'clock, and push them in. Finally, remove the transmission tray, engine tray and the plastic cover from the suspension wishbone.

spin the motor, if its raspy or rough, any play in it, replace it! i should have done that first! i went through 2 resistors. im bummed!

I hope this helps, I would take a calculated guess that it is strictly a safety factor (in an emergancy on the highway if your foot is on the brake you are less likely to be rear ended) and if this is indead true, than it is wired to the battery independent of your starter switch

If the brake lights are staying on even with your foot off the brake, it may be that the switch controlling the brake lights is broken. Beware; this can drain the battery.

The PDC is the under hood fuse box, right next to the battery.

The vehicle manual says the fuel filter should be changed every 30,000 miles. According to ALL manuals on the 1996 to 1998 4.0L there in NO fuel filter on these vehicles.

After two electric fan failures on my 1999 Grand Cherokee between Jan 08 and Jul 09, and a $400 flatbed charge for the 2nd one, I got fed up with the reliability of the electric fans and added a mechanical fan and clutch.

My GC 4x4 has an inline-6, 4.0L engine. Adding the clutch/fan assembly took all of 10 minutes. The threaded end on front of the water pump is right there, so I first mounted the fan to the clutch on my workbench, then screwed the clutch onto the threaded portion of the water pump.

The vehicle has never run better, and my gas mileage IMPROVED 1-2 mpg during the summer because the a/c compressor doesn't run nearly as often because of this fan, which is always pulling air throuch the a/c condenser.

I absolutely think the mechanical fan is the way to go. The electrical fan proved unreliable.

I am lucky that the electric fan didn't fail while I was deep in the woods, or cause severe engine damage.

It is probably a bad speed sensor. The speed sensor is located on the transmission and sends a signal to the speedometer. It acts like a speedometer cable only sending electronic pulses instead of turning like a cable does.

10w-40 is an all-purpose oil that can be used in most motor vehicles, however it is best to use whatever oil is recommended by the manufacturer, especially if you are pulling a trailer or other severe service.

The thermostat is located at the termination of the upper radiator hose directly behind the fan.

Some do, some don't. You should have a button on the top if the seat back if it will lay down. One on each side. You should also be able to tell by looking at the seat back from the trunk. Some do, some don't. You should have a button on the top if the seat back if it will lay down. One on each side. You should also be able to tell by looking at the seat back from the trunk.

R-12,which can only be installed by a liscenced tech(you can not purchase it w/o a liscence.It can be converted to R-134 A,which can be picked up anywhere-but you will need a retrofit kit and some know how.

It is not the fuse, bulbs, or neutral safety switch. What can it be?

It is on the same circuit as the brake lights, but if they are not working, and the bulbs are good your switch needs cleaning or adjustment.

Attempt this first since the switch costs nearly $300 bucks.

On the passengers side of the trans just behind the bell housing there is a fan shaped switch, loosen the 12mm bolt ( smaller of the two, and rotate the switch while a friend checks the lights. this problem is usually accompanied by an occasional inability to start the vehicle, but can be cured by jiggling the shifter.

While adjusting the switch make sure that the vehicle will start in park as well, remember to block the wheels while testing the back up lights, engine off, key in run but not start, shifter in reverse, move switch until lights come on.

Once you find this spot, hold it in place and have your helper check to make sure it will start. This may take several tries to get both working correctly.

If you have no luck the switch may be dirty, this happens a lot. Hold the post to the bottom large bolt still while you loosen the nut, then remove it, then remove the 12mm adjusting bolt on top, remove the wire connector and pull the switch away, remove the bolts on the switch and separate the halves, use electrical contact cleaner and maybe some q-tips to clean all the copper connections completely apply di-electric grease and reassemble, refit to the trans and readjust so all functions work, this switch controls back up and start safety.

Caution! always hold that bottom bolt while tightening the large nut, this is connected to the gear adjuster and you could damage the internals if it isn't secured while you do it.

It will be way far cheaper to replace it than to attempt to fix it. These OE stereos were marginally ok when new but you can do much better. I would take it to a car stereo place and have them install a new system. Online you can find wonderful support and decent prices at www.crutchfield.com. They sell a wide range of equipment and have custom wiring harnesses to make home installation easier. And no, I don't work for Crutchfield, I'm a long time very happy customer of theirs.

FACING FROM FRONT TO BACK OF THE JEEP, IT IS THE TANK ON THE RIGHT SIDE.......THE ONE ON THE LEFT IS COLLIANT OVER FLOW ONLY.

It should fit but, the crank position sensor produces a signal by referring to the flex plate. In 1991 Jeep went to a Chrysler fuel injection system and the windows that the crank sensor reads are different. So in other words it should bolt up but then it will not start.

That can be caused by an number of reasons. The most common is a misfire or a multiple cylinder misfire. This can me caused from an internal oil leak into the spark plugs. You can go to an Auto Zone or any place like that and they can hook the Jeep up to a diagnostic machine to let you know what the code is. That will help you figure out where to start to fix the problem. If the light is flashing do not drive it because it is something more serious.