Jeep Cherokee Laredo

The rear seat releases are typically in the trunk under the speakers. Just give the knobs a pull and the seatback should release. If the middle seat belt is in the way, there is a release for the lower part on the assembly that if you insert a key it should come out and pull up out of the way.

Jeep doesn't use an inertia/ reset switch. The fuel system is computer controlled with relays.

I believe the filter is near the fuel tank probably on the fill side of the tank??? It is a metal cannister typoe and be sure not too pull it until the vehicle sets overnite, open the fuel cap and pull the fuel pump fuse red 10 amp. if you are not sure . donot turn on the key when doing this job fuel sprays under pressure once you open the lines if you do turn on the key!!! could have an injury to yourself or worse!!

I found this switch inside the car under the dash on the wall. Look where the clutch pedal arm hits the back of the wall underneath the dash. There is a little switch that pushes in when the clutch is depressed. This can be unscrewed with a wrench and pulled out from the back and replaced. There are the electrical wires that just need to be moved to the new one. Hope that helps.

I have a 95 blazer and the passenger side back seat has more than once refused to go down.

There is a thin cable inside the back of the seat and is supposed to hook and secure by means of a small ball at the end of the cable into a slot on the back of the seat located under the latch that you pull on to lower the seat. The cable slips down inside of the back - but unfortunately I haven't figured out how to get to it - except to take it to a dealer - which I don't do anymore.

You will probably have to remove the seat back cover. It is close at the bottom with a "J and arrow" or two j-straps. I would begin by taking those apart (use a screwdriver to help). See if you can feel around and figure out the problem. It you have to take the trim completely off you will need to remove the headrests. Good luck.

In some cases the seat will get jammed and you have to push the seat back then pull the handle

the bulp could be burnt out! first does the 4WD work, just because the bulb dosnt turn on dosnt mean the 4WD dosnt work. put the jeep in part time on dry pavement, and turn the wheel sharp and drive a few feet, it should bind up if the 4WD is ingauaged. If it dosnt bind up then its not ingauaged and is a different problem. hope this helps some.

Rear: Brake, Back-up, Tail, Turn signal (3 bulbs, all # 3157)

To access the rear bulbs, open the liftgate and remove the two Phillips head screws from the side of the housing as shown in the center photo above. Slowly and firmly rotate the assembly away from the vehicle until it disengages from the ball pin socket that secures it in back.

Each of the three light sockets, all containing the same exact bulb type, can be removed by turning them counter-clockwise 1/4 turn.

Taillight harness connector

To remove the taillight harness, slide the red lock tab up and pull connector off.

The factory alarm can not be disabled. The alarm is a function of the engine, body, and key computers. The alarm is reset by unlocking the doors with a key or remote. If malfunctioning a scan tool is required to diagnose.

Hey Steve==If you have to ask, you must not be very familiar with mechanics. First drain the radiator. Take the fan shourd off then remove the hoses, and oil cooler lines. Then remoove the bolts and pull the radiator out. Reverse operations to install. GoodluckJoe

Check your fuel vapor canister. this is a charcoal canister that collects your fuel vapors and redirects then through your engine to burn. when the canister fails you will get a strong fuel odor from the vehicle. It is located in the front area of your vehicle.

If you are talking about the rim Dodge and Chevy have a different lug bolt pattern so the answer is No. Good Luck and Remember.
Change Your Mind, Not Your Oil.
Use the First In Synthetic Motor Oil's.
See My Bio For more information.

Many of the 4.0 motors were never equipped with a PCV, but use the smaller line at the back of the valve cover to the intake as a meter orifice. The system is called CCV, for Controlled Crankcase Ventilation. Installing a PCV will overpressurize the engine and blow gaskets and seals.

It's in the Tank. The pump, filter, check valve and regulator are all located on the top of the fuel tank.

2000lbs is listed, but i took that on my 91' 4 banger across country on I-80 i ended up doing 20mph up the mt's at some points in CO. I would say you could do 3,000 no problem 3,500 is what the new jeep is rated i think.

If they are manual then the '88 car would have been supplied with a Peugeot BA10/5

the '86 car a Borg-Warner T5

to be honest I'm not sure if these are interchangeable but I would have thought so since there were no major design changes as far as I know between the '86 cars and the '88 cars

If the '86 car is an auto 'box then it would have been supplied with the 3 speed Chrysler A904 I think?

I couldn't tell you if the 5 speed manual would fit in the '86 if the '86 is an auto

However I think that manual for manual should be interchangeable

By the way, I could be wrong but I'm pretty sure I'm right

regards

Iain Thornton

I suggest that you use a high mileage oil(maybe Quaker state or Castrol),in addition use Lucas oil additive.You will notice a big difference in the way your motor performs.

Personally I have an 89' with 300+ on it and the only change I've made was running synthetic in order to run in Edmonton's cold winters. I still use Mobil1 10-30 at home in BC I never had a problem with regular oil.

Try putting on the emergency brake & turning the wheels one way while turning the key. If that dont work try turning the wheels the other way..if your parked on a steep hill you might even have to put a brick in front of the tires and let it roll a bit to remove some pressure from the wheels............hope it works

Sometimes the plug gets stuck pretty hard in the radiator and removal will damage the radiator. Just pull the lower rad hose and you will do the same thing.

Even though the Plug has a rib/tab down the middle making you think it is threaded into the radiator...in reality it is just a molded plug with rubber o-rings that pushes straight in and pulls straight out. So to remove it (although it is probably better to just remove the hose) just grasp the rib and pull straight out while maybe twisting back and forth.

Almost every car and truck since 1980 has a belt routing guide on a sticker under the hood. This is most often placed on the radiator shroud or radiator mount but can be found other places like on the bottom side of the hood. If the sticker is gone then go to your local automotive parts dealer like NAPA and ask them to please look it up for you. A nice counter guy - or girl- would be happy to check their books for you and hand you a print out. Be sure to have the make, model and engine info with you. Mitch

• If you have air conditioning it's condensation from your AC spilling into your vehicle instead of outside on the ground. It's a clogged line to your air conditioner which has been clogged with debris, leaves and such. A little compressed air should do the trick.
• It might also be a coolant leak from your heater core. It will have a slimy, greasy feel if it's coolant. It will also have a sweet odor. Do not taste - its poisonous.
• Yes, the mysterious water swooshing noise in the dashboard when turning, and/or water leaking under the dash at the passenger side, as well as possibly the heater fan sounding like it's spitting water…there can be only one explanation and this is IT.
• First, let me assure you that all manner of answers from mechanics have been researched and considered, but so far no one has yet answered this satisfactorily in any forum I have come across. Usually it is something along the lines of "coolant leak", evaporator core issues, etc etc but these fellows are missing the vital point…it is WATER not some exotic liquid cocktail usually associated with serious and expensive vehicle problems.
• I own a 1996 Mercury Villager / Nissan Quest which developed this problem after a heavy rainfall. Coincidence? NO WAY!
• I had the proverbial water leak beneath the passenger side dash, as well as what sounded like a bathtub full of water behind my dash swooshing back and forth.
• So here's the deal. These vehicles, like many others have a reservoir above the firewall just beneath the plastic cover at the base of the windshield, which also houses the wiper motor, etc. typically the reservoir collects any water running from the windshield or rain in general. There are two drains one at the drivers side and one at the passenger side. These drains usually work great except when they become plugged with silt, debris from trees shedding leaves, insect matter etc. When this happens, the water simply collects and fills the reservoir with nowhere to go except into the fresh air intake for the cabin heating/cooling system located just above the passenger side glove compartment.
• The water then leaks into the venting ducts and onto the floor. It also stays in the reservoir and sloshes back and forth while driving.
• Any mechanic worth his salt should be able to figure this out and charge you ½ hr labor to remove the plastic shroud and unplug the drains. That's pretty much the extent of it. I did it myself and it took about 20 minutes.
• The wipers have to be removed. There is a release clip at the bottom of the wiper coupling where it meets the drive shaft. Pull it back and lift the wiper straight up and off the shaft. Remove the plastic pins ( they look like slotted screws) along the top of the shroud by turning them 90 degrees and pulling them straight out with some needle nose pliers. Open the hood and remove the rubber seal strip along the edge of the shroud. Find the little plastic holding pins and reach around to the bottom of each pin. You need to compress the little barbs on both sides of the pin to allow it to be pushed up through the hole. There are also 4 plastic push-lock pins holding the bottom edge of the shroud. You will have to pull up on the center (looks like a screw) of each pin and pull it almost all the way out. Then remove the whole pin assembly. A small sharp pair of end cutters works great. Now with a little bit of twisting and careful manipulation you should be able to pull the plastic piece up and out of the way. Start at the corners and pull the piece down and out from under the windshield trim. Then lift it up carefully and move it to rest on the windshield being careful not to disconnect any rubber hoses from the washer nozzles.
• The drains are located at the far edge of the trough in each corner. Use a straightened coat hanger or something similar to poke and clear the drain. Get your garden hose and with a good straight stream of water flush out each drain hole and make sure it is draining. Water will pour out of the rear of each wheel well just under the front of each door.
• Try using a spray of Lysol or other household disinfectant into the trough since it may have had stagnant water for some time. This will kill any bacteria that may have found it a haven for while and ensure that you will not be blowing it into the passenger compartment every time you turn on your blower.
• This happened to me, two huge puddles on my passenger side floor mat twice in one day. I looked up below the dash and found the hole it was dripping from. I found a nearby hose sticking out about two inches that wasn't connected to anything. Reconnected and problem solved. Just a disconnected hose.

The factory had 2 possible tire sizes:
215/75R15 and 225/75R15

The largest ive seen without any rubbing (also the size i run on mine) are 235/75R15s

USE CAUTION WHEN DEVIATING FROM MAN SUGGESTED TIRE SIZE! I was in the tire business for several years, we saw A LOT of Jeeps come in with the wrong size tires on, and several of them had problems with the transfer case. It seemed that the Grand Cherokee was more prone to those issues, but several standard Cherokee's had the same problems.

If the pioneer is like my 1988 Jeep Cherokee limited, the fuse box is hidden from view above the break pedal and to the left. You have to open the driver's door and kneel on the pavement to see it.

It is usually located in the headlight switch. It is a automatic reset circuit breaker. When a short occurs it rapidly blinks the headlight circuit on and off so the headlights are not completely lost to allow you to pull off the road safely at night.