Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo

Well... since im fourteen you probably wont listen (since my mom don't) but if you live in North Carolina you could get one @ Wal*mart, advance auto parts, or the auto zone in Marion . I don't know bout anywhere else im sorry

Loosen the 15mm nut that holds the pulley to the bracket then back off on the 13mm adjuster bolt.

THIS HAPPEND TO ME .. IF YOU OPEN THE DRIVERS SIDE DOOR IN THE JAMB . LOOK FOR THE WIRE HARNESS THAT JOINS TO THE DOOR TO THE INSIDE DOOR JAMB, YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THAT HARNESS I THINK IT WAS A 6 OR 8 MM BOLT.. THAT HARNESS GETS PINCHED AND CAUSES A BREAK IN THE WIRING ,, VERY COMMON. EASY TO FIX ALSO...YOU CAN GET A GOOD ONE FROM A JUNK YARD FOR ABOUT 20 BUCKS.. SPIKED2U@AOL.COM

Both the 4.0L and 4.7L take six quarts with filter.

You have a screw on the inside of the door near the side mirror, a screw behind the door handle, and 2 or 3 at the arm rest. the rest is carefully start pulling the lower part of the panel off from the bottom to the top. You will more than likely break a couple of plastic push pins that you can get from the parts store. Then the top part is a jiggle and wiggle to get it free. The speaker is now accessable from under the thin plastic.

If your oil pressure is remaining that high, I suggest having it checked with a manual pressure guage to see if the reading is accurate. It sounds to me as if you might have a bad oil sending unit. After checking it manually you may be pleasantly surprised to find that a new oil pressure sending unit will solve your problem. good luck.

It sounds like the battery only has enough of a charge to run the ignition and the alternator is not contributing anything so as soon as you put additional load on it, the engine dies from lack of power for the ignition coil. If you have a volt meter, check the battery voltage BEFORE you start the engine. If it'needs a jump-start again do so and start the engine. Then remove the jumper cables and test the voltage level in the battery with the engine RPM at around 1000. With the engine running it should be somewhere near 13.5 Volts. If it's anything less than 12 V, you have a problem with the alternator.

I myself would not do this as the Jeep is a Uni-body construction and if you catch the plow on a curb you could bend the body to a point where the doors will not open.

Wow, You have a 4.0l right which is an Inline 6. That would be 6 spark plugs. What ever you plan to do STOP, call your local mechanic, PLEASE!!

The firing order of a 2.5 liter 4 cyl is 1342. The distributer only goes in one place, and the sensers control how much the timing is advanced. No matter what size engine the firing order should be on the intake manifold.

no only 93 grand Cherokees came with an aw4

an aw4 will have a

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3

2-1

shift pattern

There are 4. One on each side of the catalytic converters in the exhaust system.

No. The 4WD transmission has a different tail shaft assembly because the transfer case bolts directly to it.

first of all. If its the 4- cylinder. you shouldn't even bother fixing it. you pb. i recommedn finding the nearest fuel station and purchasing at least 3 gallons of the cheapest unleaded and pouring all over your interior. Then with a suitable flame proceed to light it ablaze.

On the 318 V8 UNDER HOOD, CENTER, REAR ENGINE AREA, PASSENGER SIDE OF DISTRIBUTOR, MOUNTED IN BLOCK On the 4.0 V6 UNDER HOOD, PASSENGER SIDE, LOWER ENGINE AREA, ABOVE OIL PAN, MOUNTED IN ENGINE BLOCK

This link should help.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f140/how-2005-2009-grand-cherokee-wk-fog-light-install-867728/

It is not the fuse, bulbs, or neutral safety switch. What can it be?

It is on the same circuit as the brake lights, but if they are not working, and the bulbs are good your switch needs cleaning or adjustment.

Attempt this first since the switch costs nearly $300 bucks.

On the passengers side of the trans just behind the bell housing there is a fan shaped switch, loosen the 12mm bolt ( smaller of the two, and rotate the switch while a friend checks the lights. this problem is usually accompanied by an occasional inability to start the vehicle, but can be cured by jiggling the shifter.

While adjusting the switch make sure that the vehicle will start in park as well, remember to block the wheels while testing the back up lights, engine off, key in run but not start, shifter in reverse, move switch until lights come on.

Once you find this spot, hold it in place and have your helper check to make sure it will start. This may take several tries to get both working correctly.

If you have no luck the switch may be dirty, this happens a lot. Hold the post to the bottom large bolt still while you loosen the nut, then remove it, then remove the 12mm adjusting bolt on top, remove the wire connector and pull the switch away, remove the bolts on the switch and separate the halves, use electrical contact cleaner and maybe some q-tips to clean all the copper connections completely apply di-electric grease and reassemble, refit to the trans and readjust so all functions work, this switch controls back up and start safety.

Caution! always hold that bottom bolt while tightening the large nut, this is connected to the gear adjuster and you could damage the internals if it isn't secured while you do it.

It will be way far cheaper to replace it than to attempt to fix it. These OE stereos were marginally ok when new but you can do much better. I would take it to a car stereo place and have them install a new system. Online you can find wonderful support and decent prices at www.crutchfield.com. They sell a wide range of equipment and have custom wiring harnesses to make home installation easier. And no, I don't work for Crutchfield, I'm a long time very happy customer of theirs.

A 1998 Jeep grand Cherokee's rear brakes make lock up and make a horrible noise while driving if there is problems with the rear differential. The pinion may of locked up. A mechanic will be able to help you fix the problem.

There are 7 pulleys to put it over or under on the 4.0. The ridged side of the belt goes on the ridged pulleys, the smooth side of the belt goes on the smooth pulleys. The ridged side is 'inside' the loop made by the fan. So starting on the left (facing the truck) The upper left corner pulley (AC Compressor) OVER Directly under that, low, the alternator UNDER OVER the fan UNDER the motor INSIDE the tensioner OVER the power steering pump UNDER the water pump Another way to put it: So the two large, center pulleys are the water pump and the motor. It is on the bottom of both of these. The top two on left and right, respectively are the AC Compressor and the power steering pump. it is on top of these. The remaining two pulleys are on the left; a small one low is the alternator which the belt runs on the bottom. The other is the fan which the belt runs over the top. Make sure the tensioner pushes the belt IN TOWARD THE WATER PUMP as you tighten it.

Usually, the line feeding the recepticle has a collar that simply slips back away from the recepticle (You may have to push the line forward and then pull back on the collar.) Then it should release.

Drive car up on set of ramps. Set parking brake, chock rear wheels.

Unhook negative battery cable.

Remove trim cover from torque converter inspection plate (it's a plastic filler plate attached with two screws right by the starter)

Remove both starter mounting bolts.

Remove the stud nuts where cables attach.

Remove starter.

Installation is reverse of removal.

I used a little "dab" of blue thread locker on the starter mounting bolts, and I've used thread tape before. Mounting bolts torque spec is 35 ft. lbs.

This job took me about 30-40 minutes. It's not difficult, but if you've never changed a starter, it can be a pain in the but.

New starters are very expensive, I've seen them listed for around $200. I got one from a 2000 Malibu at a junk yard for $35, it was "clean" and has gotten me 12,000 miles so far. If you absolutely need or want a new one, I would highly recommend a dealership, Carquest or Napa.

Good luck!

how much freon does a 2002 jeep cherokee limited hold

It is a ridiculous design it actually drains inside the uni-body frame rail, you will have to remove the dash to get to the hvac unit and replace the seal that seal it against the firewall from the passenger side so it will stop leaking inside the car, or you could cut a hole inside the fender well to get to it and attach a drain hose that will drain inside the fender well through the hole that you made.

I have a 1994 Grand Cherokee with a 1990 Cherokee 4.0 engine in it..

So i wuld have to say yes to your question.. ( i did not know it was from a 90 Cherokee until i had to buy some parts for oil change and none of the filters for a 94 would work.. :-)