Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo

According to Alldata the 4.0L engine is not equipped with an EGR Valve. You don't have one on the 4.0

After two electric fan failures on my 1999 Grand Cherokee between Jan 08 and Jul 09, and a $400 flatbed charge for the 2nd one, I got fed up with the reliability of the electric fans and added a mechanical fan and clutch.

My GC 4x4 has an inline-6, 4.0L engine. Adding the clutch/fan assembly took all of 10 minutes. The threaded end on front of the water pump is right there, so I first mounted the fan to the clutch on my workbench, then screwed the clutch onto the threaded portion of the water pump.

The vehicle has never run better, and my gas mileage IMPROVED 1-2 mpg during the summer because the a/c compressor doesn't run nearly as often because of this fan, which is always pulling air throuch the a/c condenser.

I absolutely think the mechanical fan is the way to go. The electrical fan proved unreliable.

I am lucky that the electric fan didn't fail while I was deep in the woods, or cause severe engine damage.

Jeep doesn't use a cut off switch. The fuel system is computer controlled through relays.

The windows in my 95 JGC don't work either. This vehicle isn't my daily driver so I haven't fixed it yet but here are my thoughts and what I intend to do.

Since they've been slow and jerky for quite some time now I suspect that the track and the guides inside the door panels have gotten dirty, dry, or have some broken nylon kind of rollers etc. Of course the first thing I'll do is check the fuse box. The power windows are controlled by a 30 amp circuit breaker in the fuse box on the far right side of the dash, accessible only by opening the passenger door. Look for #26. If the circuit breaker is thrown you can reset it but this probably won't take care of the real issue. I would start with the drivers side door when looking for a worn out window channel set since that window is probably the one that has been used the most.

Removing the inner door trim panel is a big pain but it can be done. First you have to remove the inner door handle/armrest which is pretty straight forward (screws) and then with either the special tool or a putty knife you have to gently pry the panel off the metal frame. Expect the nylon clips to break due to their age so you'll have to buy some new replacements. Once you get the panel loose you'll need to unhook the wiring harness for the window and door lock controls on the inside of the door.

At this point you'll have to carefully peel the plastic wind/noise guard off the inside of the door. If you do it carefully you'll be able to put it back with some kind of sealant. If you rip it off you'll end up being sorry because the door will make all kinds of wind noise and there will be a draft that will make you crazy. With that done you can then inspect the window races and runners to determine what parts you need to replace and at that point, if you think you're going to keep the jeep, you might as well replace all of the nylon bushings and rollers. You'll also want to check with your parts dealer and get the proper lubncant.

Reverse the take apart steps and be happy because you only have three more doors to do.

Here's a start from Richard Wheeldon wheeldon88@yahoo.co.uk - though I don't have specific knowledge of the Grand Cherokee, but heres how I would do it.

The thermostat restricts the flow of coolant circulating to the radiator whilst the motor is still warming up. It is located in the waterline between the cylinder head and the radiator.

Here is where I break into this answer (giant167).

On the 4.7L v-8, the thermostat is located on the bottom left of the engine block. You must drain the radiator and remove the bottom hose to access the thermostat housing.

Mr. Wheeldon continues now.

You might want to loosen the bottom radiator hose clip to drain out and save about 4 pints of the coolant before you start. Look at the top of the radiator and find a large diameter rubber hose headed towards the motor. It should terminate at a dome-shaped housing at one end of the top of the motor. There will be three or more bolts securing the housing. Remove the housing being careful not to damage the paper gasket that seals the housing and hook out the old thermostat. Replace it with one of the same type and temperature rating, making sure it is the same way up. Either replace the gasket or use some gasket past to seal the joint when you replace the housing. Don't over-tighten the bolts. Make sure all the hose clips are secure, then replace the coolant and top it up to the correct level.

Good job!

This part is not independently serviceable. It comes as an assembly on the power track. It is likely that the driveshaft to the motor is broken anyway so even if you could replace just one motor it would do you no good. You should remove the entire power track assembly from the cushion and order a replacement from the dealership or online. In any case make sure you contact the dealer to request the correct torques to re-install any fasteners.

I once did this on my '93 Sport so I hope this can help. I removed the front panel, which is one whole piece. The switches were held on by four screws. Remove them and behing the switches are the tiny bulbs which are inserted into the back OS the switches.

48,000-56,000.

>>>Depends on the year you are asking! I would try Kelly Blue Book or some other service on the internet.

Improvement to answer...hopefully

I assume you mean MPG, not mileage. I get about 22MPG on mine and it has just under 100,000 miles. It is a Grand Cherokee Laredo.

Well i have a 02 4.7l v8 and i get 15.8 mpg..and i light foot it! You will never get 22mpg not matter the v6 or v8! I do not live in the city its country which is mostly like highway! I have tried e3 spark plugs and they are not worth a dime. My jeep has 141k miles with stock everything never one problem! Just always use full synthetic oil. And change tranny oil every now and then.

the fuse 4 the seats is actually circuit breaker #11 in the fuse block located over the break pedal. this is identified in the owners manual.Another fuse link is located under the carpet.

There is one when you open the front passenger door, down by the floor on the right there is a small square panel that pulls off. Those are your most commonly used/changed fuses. There is also another fuse/relay box in the engine compartment. Pop open the hood and it's on the passenger side in the vicinity of your coolant bottle. It's a simple clip to pull on to release the cover, and on the inside of that cover it shows you which relays and fuses are in what spots.

I havent done this on that model year. however, the engine is very much the same for a long time.I had to remove the shroud on top of the radiator to get enough room to work. The fan shroud is partially attached with a metal cap on top of the radiator. Two bolts on top completely exposed remove this cap.Next remove the nuts from the fan clutch assembly. Remove the fan clutch. Stand the fan clutch upright. The fluid has to stay upright as it is mounted on the water pump. I don't know why.Remove the hoses and bolts on the water pump. Remove pump.Clean the surface from where the pump was mounted. Scrape with a metal spatula or the like. Clean with a solvent. Do not use any degreasing solvents they tend to leave behind an oily residue that will impede a good seal for the gasket goo. The new water pump has to have a clean surface for the gaskett and gasket goo to take hold. When you buy the pump ask the parts guy what you hould use for gasket goo(there are several).remove the studs from the old pump. You will need them to mount the fan clutch. Do this by taking a couple of nuts threaded on one stud at a time. Cinch one on nut on the other. It will not take much torque. Twist the stud off grasping the inside nut with an end wrench.Reinstall on new pump in reverse process. Maybe wait to install pump before stud installation.Install pump: use the provided gasket with your new pump. Apply gaskett goo onto the engine side surface and the pump surface. Apply gasket to the pump. Align with bolt holes with bolts in place as necessary. Slap the booger on the engine with a couple of bolt. Start all bolts threading before you tighten. Do not over tighten. I cant tell you the torque measurement,but tighten so as to compress the gasket plenty. reattach the fan clutch. reattach the hoses. Start up the jeep with the radiator cap off. Observe the level of fluid add correct measurement of water and coolant listed in your owners manual or fluid bottle.Close the cap when fluid is to the top. Add fluid to reservoir as necessary.

Good Luck

DO NOT REPLACE THE BCM!!! TRY THIS FIRST! I found the way to fix this. It's a bad switch in either/both the driver or passenger side front door. The switch is located at the bottom of the door opposite the hinge. The switch is used to tell the car that the door was unlocked and to turn on the lights. If you pull back the door cover on the bottom (You do not need to remove the cover completely) and pull back that plastic you will see the plug for the switch down in that bottom corner. Just unplug one switch and try closing and locking the doors. If the lights still don't go off try unplugging the other switch and doing the same. I'm not sure how much these switches are, but If you decide not to replace it you will see the following effects (There may be more, but these are the only ones I'm aware of): 1.) The lights will not turn on when that door is unlocked. 2.) If the alarm is set and you unlock only that door and enter the vehicle, the alarm will sound. Hope that helps. -Broofus See discussion area below for the absolute fix for a 1997 Jeep Cherokee; as the above switches are not in a 1997...but I have the fix....sixhackers

I have 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a similar problem. i found that wires between the body and the door on the drivers side were all broken. I spliced the wires back together again and everything works fine.

R-12,which can only be installed by a liscenced tech(you can not purchase it w/o a liscence.It can be converted to R-134 A,which can be picked up anywhere-but you will need a retrofit kit and some know how.

Well... since im fourteen you probably wont listen (since my mom don't) but if you live in North Carolina you could get one @ Wal*mart, advance auto parts, or the auto zone in Marion . I don't know bout anywhere else im sorry

Loosen the 15mm nut that holds the pulley to the bracket then back off on the 13mm adjuster bolt.

THIS HAPPEND TO ME .. IF YOU OPEN THE DRIVERS SIDE DOOR IN THE JAMB . LOOK FOR THE WIRE HARNESS THAT JOINS TO THE DOOR TO THE INSIDE DOOR JAMB, YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THAT HARNESS I THINK IT WAS A 6 OR 8 MM BOLT.. THAT HARNESS GETS PINCHED AND CAUSES A BREAK IN THE WIRING ,, VERY COMMON. EASY TO FIX ALSO...YOU CAN GET A GOOD ONE FROM A JUNK YARD FOR ABOUT 20 BUCKS.. SPIKED2U@AOL.COM

Both the 4.0L and 4.7L take six quarts with filter.

You have a screw on the inside of the door near the side mirror, a screw behind the door handle, and 2 or 3 at the arm rest. the rest is carefully start pulling the lower part of the panel off from the bottom to the top. You will more than likely break a couple of plastic push pins that you can get from the parts store. Then the top part is a jiggle and wiggle to get it free. The speaker is now accessable from under the thin plastic.

If your oil pressure is remaining that high, I suggest having it checked with a manual pressure guage to see if the reading is accurate. It sounds to me as if you might have a bad oil sending unit. After checking it manually you may be pleasantly surprised to find that a new oil pressure sending unit will solve your problem. good luck.

It sounds like the battery only has enough of a charge to run the ignition and the alternator is not contributing anything so as soon as you put additional load on it, the engine dies from lack of power for the ignition coil. If you have a volt meter, check the battery voltage BEFORE you start the engine. If it'needs a jump-start again do so and start the engine. Then remove the jumper cables and test the voltage level in the battery with the engine RPM at around 1000. With the engine running it should be somewhere near 13.5 Volts. If it's anything less than 12 V, you have a problem with the alternator.

I myself would not do this as the Jeep is a Uni-body construction and if you catch the plow on a curb you could bend the body to a point where the doors will not open.

Wow, You have a 4.0l right which is an Inline 6. That would be 6 spark plugs. What ever you plan to do STOP, call your local mechanic, PLEASE!!

The firing order of a 2.5 liter 4 cyl is 1342. The distributer only goes in one place, and the sensers control how much the timing is advanced. No matter what size engine the firing order should be on the intake manifold.