Lincoln Navigator

Do yourself a favor. If you are planning to install an aftermarket radio, buy yourself a radio wiring hardness that will fit into the factory wiring hardness. It will cost under $20.00. And it will save you lost of headaches in the future. No short, or problems... _____________________________________________________________Remove Stock Ford RadioTools Needed To remove the radio you will need a "Radio Removal Tool". This is a "U" shaped pin with a dent at the end. This can be commonly found at auto parts stores or, WalMart, etc (widely available for $3-$4). The radio has two holes in each end (four holes total) · Insert the removal tool into the holes on each side (This will release the catches holding the radio into the dash) · Slide the radio toward you The Related links below gives instructions for radio removal and includes photos You can also make your own removing tool from a wire coat hanger: cut 2 U-shaped pieces (about 8" each) and insert them into the 2 holes in the front of your head unit; using a sideways motion and pulling towards you will do the trick, just be carefull when inserting the tool to not scratch the finish on the unit. I tried the wire hangar solution but went and bought the tool anyway. Either would probably work, but the tool is a bit more sturdy / stiff. Here are the instructions that come with the tool: * Disconnect negative battery wire * Insert the removal tool into the holes on either side of the faceplate * Push the tools forward about 1 inch until the retaining clips are released Grasp the tools tightly and pull apart slightly as you pull the unit from the dash.

The Fuel pump reset switch is located in the rear interior panel on the driver side by the tailgate. it is typically covered by a stock plastic panel. the switch is a simple push to reset switch.

We own two Nav's, a 2003 and a 2006. The '06 started running rough a few months ago and I asked my local Lincoln dealer what the problem was and was told it "just" needed a tune up. When I asked how much, I could tell by the look on his face it was not going to be cheap.

He explained that it's very seldom that at least one plug breaks off during the process and usually multiple plugs break. he said something about a poor design of the engine that causes the plugs to basically get fused in the block. He said $500 if we are lucky, but figure on $800.

Once I started breathing again, I told him I would think about it. I called the Lincoln dealer in a town not far from here and was told almost the same exact thing.

I was just looking for an answer when I saw this site. I did see an answer that said in CA they could run anywhere from $200 to $250. Not sure why living in Nebraska would make the tune ups so expensive.

I was looking at the 2000 Lincoln Navigator Owner Guide :

To have a 50 / 50 mix of antifreeze and preferrably distilled water

( like it was when it came from the factory )

Without rear heat ( 12.75 U.S. quarts of antifreeze mixed with an equal amount of distilled water )

With auxiliary rear heat ( 13.95 quarts )

* Ford states not to drop below 40 % antifreeze and not to exceed 60 % in the mix

under the hood on the right-hand-side looking at the car from the front.On the drivers side close to the windscreen. It is covered by a transparent plastic top next to the fuel pump relay box

According to the 2001 Lincoln Navigator Owner Guide :

In the power distribution box ( which is " live " ) located in the engine compartment on the drivers side

( fuse # 23 is a 15 amp fuse for the HEGO sensors , canister vent , transmission , and CMS sensor )

* HEGO stands for Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen sensor *

There are several O-Rings.

fill your info at the bottom page www.starbaja.com

Under the steering wheel just to the left

I have reolaced them on 3 town cars every time I but a piece of black friction tape over the light or take top og dash off and remove bulb

Diffusion

On a 2001 Lincoln Navigator :

The fuel pump shut off switch ( inertia switch ) is in the front passenger

footwell , by the kick panel

According to the 2006 Lincoln Navigator Owner Guide ( 5W-20 )

Open the driver's door and look about middle ways down on the side panel. You will see the fuse panel door about 4" x 4" in size. Use a screw driver to pry open the door.

Follow the tube from the throttle body to the air filter box. Open that up with some clips or bolts. Replace.

The 2005 Lincoln Navigator's engine produces 300 hp @ 5000 rpm.

Oh man! You better be prepared to have appx. 8 hrs of spare time because this is going to take you a while. In order to replace the heater core you must take off your entire dashboard as well as deactivate the airbags. Detailed info on how to deactivate them can be found in a Chilton's manual. Good luck!

The HVAC system is basically the same in the Navigator and the Expedition and F150. All three models have a common problem with the blend door failing and causing a lack of control over the air flow through the heater core. Replacing the heater core isn't necessary unless you are smelling antifreeze in the passenger compartment and losing coolant from the radiator. Replacing the heater core or OEM blend door requires removal of the steering wheel/steering column/dash panel to get access to the plenum box and is a major operation. There is an aftermarket kit that will allow you to effect a repair of the blend door without having to disassembly the dash. Check links through my bio page for additional information including a video of the diagnosis/repair process.

If you raise the hood of your 2001 Lincoln navigator, go to the passenger side , right against the fire wall directly under the two air conditioner lines "aluminum colored " may have a black cap and be hard to see

While driving, the air sup... raises the vehicle up a couple of inches. This is not noticeable while driving but if you stand by (or lean on) the vehicle after parking, you will notice it dropping slowly. Sometimes you can even hear it when it starts to drop. I assume the air sup... makes for a smoother ride......like riding on air.

= How to Change Spark Plugs on 4.6 & 5.4 Liter = I've replaced plugs on quite a few 5.4Ls now (the 4.6L with plug wires is similar) and once you've done a set they really are not as bad as they look. Contrary to what some people will say, you don't have to remove the fuel rails. The Coil on Plug (COP) assemblies will come out past the fuel rail. I take an old piece of seat foam and put it on top of the radiator support to the engine to allow me to lay on it without hurting my tummy. It makes the job way less painful. Start by removing the cover over the throttle body (the black plastic cover that says "5.4" on it). There are three 10mm head bolts that hold it on. Next remove the air intake tube from the throttle body to the air filter housing. You loosen the hose clamps at either end of it; disconnect the connector on the AT (about half way up the air intake hose), the pull out the small hoses that go into the air intake tube near the throttle body. Next remove the brace from the power steering reservoir to thermostat housing. There are three 8mm or 5/16" head screws that hold it on. Now you should be able to see the COPs. To remove the COPs you can use a 7mm or 9/32" wrench or nut driver or socket, extension and ratchet or all of the above. If you turn the fuel injectors to the side it will give you more room to work with the COPs. Unplug the connector on each COP by pressing the tab in and pulling on the connector. After you're done that just twist and pull the COPs out. A couple of the COPs on the driver's side and #4 on the passenger's side are a bit hard to get at but with some patience they will come out. After you've removed the COPs take a blow gun and blow out the spark plug holes. Don't be surprised if there is rust and junk in them. Next you can actually remove the plugs. Use a combination of extensions, swivels (universal joints), sockets and ratchets to get at them. Whatever works best for you is good. On the harder ones to get at I usually use a socket with a 4" extension, then a swivel, then a long extension, then the ratchet. The plugs are way down in the hole which is why I use the extension then the swivel. The swivel makes it easier to clear the firewall. Set the gap on the new plugs to whatever it says on your emissions decal on the radiator support....usually .052-.056". Apply a small amount of anti-seize to the threads only on the spark plug. You can use a piece of vacuum hose or fuel hose over the end of the plug to get it started in the hole. Carefully start the plugs in their holes. If you can't get them most of the way in by hand with the hose take a look and see why not. Cross threaded plug threads are no fun! The plugs are to be tightened to 13 lb-ft. which is just hand tight with a short ratchet. Don't over tighten them! The threads in the aluminum heads have enough problems as it is. After that just put everything back together in reverse order. Apply some dielectric grease to the plug boots as well to help seal them. I've done enough of these that I can replace the plugs in approximately 45 minutes but don't be surprised if the first time you do it takes a few hours.

Its obvious that you'd take the old one out first. The problem is how. Can someone please provide the details. I don't have a manual w/my Toyota and can't figure out how to open up the compartment where the air filter is. Thank you. I would advise you to get an owner's manual. You need this for the maintenance schedule on your ride. Dealer, E-Bay, Salvage Yard, are sources. You can also find them on-line. Search with Google using the term "Automobile Owner's Manual" If it is like my 01 celica gt, you should be able to release four tension clips on the sides of the air filter box and lift off the top of the air filter housing, remove the old filter, then replace the new one. Be careful to make sure to fully close the air filter housing when done, or you could turn your check engine light on if you allow too much air to pass through the housing.

It is located under the dashboard left of the steering wheel. Howard

Owner's Manual

If you don't have one copy and paste link below;