Mazda 323

most likely the alternator needs attention cause it is not charging

There is indeed a thermostat, that mechanically opens and closes to regulate water flow from the engine to the radiator. The thermostat housing is located on the upper part of the engine (front right corner), where there is a black hose leading to the radiator. Take that housing apart, inside you will find the thermostat. It's a round brass thing, about 4cm in diameter.

Are you refering to a wiring diagram or mechanical assembly diagram? Have you tried your local or regional library? Sometimes they will have auto repair manuals in their reference section and a photocopier (bring lots of coins!). Good luck Malcolm

Plug gap for the Mazda B1800 should be .031" +/-.002"

Kyrasis6

-Mazdatruckin.com

yes all Mazda's are made in Japan

There is normally a "pipe plug" in the side of the transmission case. When the plug is removed fluid is added until it starts to run out.

Unlike engine oil, or automatic transmission oil, there is no dip stick to measure the level. Also ther is no cap to remove under the hood to add manual transmission oil. You must get under the car and remove the plug with a wrench.

All the above may apply to other Mazda models, on late 80's 323's (1987-1990), you need to remove the speedometer cable drive located on top of and at the rear (closest to the firewall)of the transaxle. Use a 10 mm box end wrench or socket and rachet to remove the retaining bolt and metal retaining clamp. Now you can pull the drive (with the speedo cable attached) out of the transaxle, and move it to one side.

Use a funnel with a long spout so that you don't spill any fluid when topping up. Don't overfill the transaxle (max capacity is 3 litres, a little under 3 US quarts)and use only Dextron II (GM automatic transmission fluid, yes even for manual transmssion (right out of the factory manual).

CheersMalcolm

On data decal (sticker) on bonnet (hood) it will tell you what type of oil needed for gear box. if Auto it will be DextronII if Manual it will be 75W-90 gear oil. these numbers are SAE or Society of Automotive Engineers (same Authority that gives us those cute "wrench" sizes used in USA and UK)

I find it is best to use a hose (even garden hose) about 1 metre long and a funnel taped to it. this will fit in the speedo drive hole and makes it clean and easy. pour oil in slowly. MAZDA 323 or Astina 1990-1996 or Ford Laser use 3 litres of gear oil. We recomend EPX 80W-90 for Australian conditions.

The speedo drive is located by following the cable out of the firewall to the final drive (diff) housing. it has a 10mm retaining bolt. remove this bolt and twist and pull the cable to disengage the speedo gear.

there is a drain plug (24mm with a red fibre washer) under the gear box to drain it and a level plug in the side of the diff housing. Usually you fill the gear box until it reaches the level plug, but in this case you will be ok if you drain the Box and fill it with 3 litres of gear box oil (manual). Oil manufacurers recomend this is done every 50,000 km, especialy in hot areas. Most manufacturers now state that the transmitions are sealed for life. Go figure.. one wants to sell you a new car the other wants to sell you oil. I say, look after your car and at least check the level when doing regular oil service every 10,000 km, but if used under harsh conditions, change it every 50,000 km and your motor oil every 5,000 km. a quick tip! change your coolant every 20,000 km.

Take the left weel off and loose the suspension from the brake weel, take the battery and battery stand away, put jack under two pins under motor-cluthhouse and loose all bolts between gearbox and motor. Take away motorholders in the left wing of car(one in back of motor). The one in the rigth end shall hold balance.

When motor is loose lower the motor and get cluts axle a little out the rise the motor and get the drive axle away and so so the box is in your hands rem:plugs and pins around the job. this is given with no warenty you take care and good luck.

its got 2 horns behind the front bumper.

A dirty fuel filter is one possibility.

Mazda 323 bulb replacement: Purchase the correct replacement bulb(s) first, before disassembling the vehicle. See sources and related links below for replacement bulb information. Then consult your owner's manual for the replacement procedure. The owner's manual is the best place to start for bulb replacement. You may want to consider replacing both left and right at the same time in order to keep brightness and color equal (optional).

No i dont however i am getting a rattling from somewhere else

• Drain the coolant. Take the radiator cap off and open the plastic screw under the radiator on the left-hand side (place a bucket or something under it)
• Remove the hose clamps on the two hoses going to and from the radiator and take the hoses off. Some more coolant will probably come out.
• Remove the small hose by the radiator cap leading to the coolant reservoir.
• Disconnect the cable to the engine fan.
• If you have an automatic transmission, you also need to remove the two lines to the oil cooler (which is in the same unit as the engine radiator). You don't need to drain the transmission, just plug the lines after disconnecting and check transmission fluid level after reinstalling the radiator.
• Unscrew the bolts near the top of the radiator that holds the resonance chamber in place (it's a plastic thing connected to the air filter box) and move it out of the way
• Unscrew the bolts that hold the top of the radiator in place, and lift the radiator straight up.

coolant leaking into the engine

If the engine is a non-interference type then the answer is NO.

See the list below:

open hood, unplug, push them out, plug in new ones, put them in, close hood, party.

Mazda made a 323 "GT" turbo 4 door sedan for at least 2 years, 1988 and 1989. It featured the 1.6 DOHC (B6T) engine that was also standard for the 323 GTX. It was rated at 132 bhp.

There is two oxygen sensors. One is located before the catalytic converter is located under the heat sheld. The oxygen sensor after the catalytic converter is found under the catalytic converter (under the car) before the catalytic transfer pipe.

You need

clean coffee jar with about an inch of clean brake fluid added to it

rubber tube that is a tight fit onto the bleed nipples

brake fluid

An assistant to press the brake pedal

top up master cylinder

place one end of the bleed tube on the nipple furthest away from the master cylinder

place the other end into the coffee jar below the fluid level slightly open the bleed nipple

get your assistant to gently pump the brake pedal until all air bubbles in the jar stop

when the bubbles stop get assistant to hold the brake pedal down to the floor

Tighten the nipple

assistant can now release pedal

do the same to the next nipple that is furthest away from the master cylinder

until all four brakes have been bled

do not press the pedal to try the feel of the brakes

before all 4 wheels have been bled as you will pump air round the system

when all are bled and the pedal feels good

get assistant to hold pressure on footbrake while you check for leaks around all the nipples that have been opened you assistant should make sure that the pedal does not creep while you check for leaks

I hope you find this helpful

best wishes

Mike

If it's electronic ignition the plug gap should be 1.1mm you buy spark plugs already sized (NGK BP5ES-11) It depends on what type of spark plugs you are using. For conventional plugs the gap of 1.0 - 1.1 mm (0.039 to 43") is correct. If you are running Platinum plugs, I like to gap at 0.005" extra (0.44 - 0.048"). I get good performance with NGK 7082 Platinum. Cheers Malcolm

where is the flasher unit on the sp20

It is located within the MAF-box, following the air in it is place right behind the "wing" that controls the sensor.

how do remove the brake drum on a 1991 mazda 323

There are several possible causes of a automatic transmission fluid leak in a 1993 Mazda 323. One of the more common causes is the transmission front pump seal. If it has never been changed, it's about the age now where the seal has worn, shrunk, and lost it's sealing capacity to keep fluid in the transmission. The transmission front pump seal in this particular vehicle is unique in that is is a relatively large seal (almost looks like an engine rear main seal). Another possibility is the CV drive axle seal. There are two of those, one on each side (left and right) of the transaxle (transmission). Similar to the front pump seal, the drive axle seals also deteriorate over time, allowing fluid to seep out. Finally, there's the automatic transmission pan gasket. Although this gasket usually doesn't spontaneously develop a leak, it's a possibility if the gasket was replaced recently and perhaps a bolt or two were overtightened, causing the gasket to crack.

One of those plastic syphons with the squeezer in the middle, should be able to suck

the excess from the filler tube.