Mazda Miata

11.9 gallons

automatic has a dipstick under the hood. manual should have a plug on the side of it.

Same as you would for any 1999-2005. See related links below.

The airbag system in the 92 Miata receives power from 4 circuits. I believe the main power is being provided via the Injector fuse (in the main fuse block under the hood). This circuit is "always on". This circuit also supplies power via an airbag fuse (also on the main fuse block) that charges the backup power module (actually a large capacitor) located under the steering column. This source is also "always on". The module also receives power via the Wiper Fuse and the Airbag fuse located in the fuse box under the dash on the drivers side. These inputs apparently enable the controller circuits as they are on only when the key is in the "on" position. Hope this helps.

Standard 5x7 or 6x8 sizes will fit the Miata. Please note whether you have a Bose or non-Bose speakers when attempting to replace them, as it will make a difference in terms of the speakers you need to purchase.

Standard speakers use a 4-ohm coil, but the Bose speakers, common on most Miatas require 1/2 ohm speakers.

It is also possible to fit 8" woofers directly into the doors. Visit clearwateraudio.com for Miata-specific, aftermarket speaker solutions.

Mazda later created wind baffle boards with integrated rear speakers, but these cannot be replaced with aftermarket sets.

The IAT is plugged in by a friction-fit rubber grommet attached to the side of the air intake box. It should be unmistakable, there is only one sensor attached to the stock, black airbox. The rubber grommet, is about the 3/4-1" in diameter where the sensor is pluged. The Air Intake box, is the large, black, plastic box on the driver's side of the engine, where the plastic crossover tube is connected on the other side of the engine.

I just replaced mine. The process is pretty straight forward. Obviously, step one is to disconnect your battery. I wasn't sure if the alternator would come up through the top for removal, so I opted to remove the splash guard from the bottom front of the engine. I then jacked the car up and it gave me great access to some of the work from underneath. The alternator was easily removed through the bottom. There are two electrical connections at the alternator. One bolts on from the battery, and one is a plugin connection that requires you to push the tab in before pulling the connector off. You can decide for yourself whether you want to do this while the alternator is bolted up or whether you want to loosen the alternator to have better access to these connections. I personally took the top bolt out and loosened the bottom bolt before removing the electrical connections. NOTE: my new alternator (rebuilt technically) came with an insulating block that did not work with the battery cable connection, so you will want to check this before returning your core in case you need to take the insulating block off your old alternator. The alternator is held on by two bolts. The top bolt is part of the tensioner, which uses, thankfully, an old style bolt system to tension a separate alternator belt. Once you remove the top bolt the tensioner can be removed by sliding it towards the rear of the car through the slot it sits in. The bottom bolt has fallen prey to what I consider an engineering oversite. The bolt threads out towards the back of the engine, and because of this, you have to remove the stiffening arm that sits right behind this bolt. Fortunately, the stiffening arm is held on by three bolts, all of which are easy to get to. Once this arm is out of the way you can remove the bottom bolt. Reassemble in the reverse order, connect your battery, reprogram your radio, etc. Your fault codes are going to be cleared, so if you needed this information for any reason, get it read before disconnecting your battery.

I'm assuming you mean the drain holes for the convertible top. They are at the front edge of the lower part of the top. Just behind the doors, almost under the rear deck carpet. Just outboard and in front of the round plastic thingies that the top rests on when lowered. Just behind where the seatbelt slides through the upper pivot/glide. It's tough to see them with the top up or down. With the top up, slide the seat forward, tilt it forward, then look for the plastic tray with the drain hole in it. It may have dirt and leaves in it. Try pouring a cup of water into the tray to see if the water drains under the car (like it should). If it does not, run some sort of giant pipe cleaner down the drain tube to clear out the debris.

In California, Mazda says every 105k miles. Everywhere else, they say every 60k. The cars timing belts are exactly the same. Crazy California. The good news, if the belt breaks it won't damage the engine (like some cars). It will leave you stranded though. I don't think I've ever seen one break before 60k (like some older Camrys), but maybe a few before 90k. Change the belt rollers and water pump while you're in there. And have the cam position sensor O-ring changed every 60k, they leak like crazy when they get old (really the only place Miatas like to leak oil). The o-ring is cheap and the labor to change it is easy enough while you're doing the timing belt.

See related links below for location. Unclip harness, remove 10mm bolt, remove sensor.

If the buzzer goes on whenever the key is in and buzzes continuously, it may be the airbag system (SRS) or an electrical problem in the SRS sensor.

May have burned-out fuseable link--check wires at starter solenoid for link Additional info - I did this seveveral years ago and the only thing that worked after replacing the battery was the headlights. Turned out that when I crossed the wires I had blown the main fuse (70 or 80 amp as I remember). I could only find ithe fuse at the dealership. The fuse is located below the fuse box under the hood and you need a 10mm socket to get to it. It wasn't too hard to fix once I found out what the problem was.

The horn is 6-8" to the left of the hood latch assembly. It's held by a single bolt on the painted frame and is hidden behind the front bumper.

How long has the car been sitting? Do any other electronics come on? It's also possible that the battery is now dead. Connect another battery (or car, similar to jumpstarting) in order to see if you just need some battery power to get things going.

ok i have a '91 miata and cannot figure out why it is hesitating when i push the gas... it seems to do it all/mostly when i am going uphill. i have tried changing the throttle both up and down some, i read on another question about the tps? what is this? i think it has something to do with the fuel but i don't know what. i have a turbo and intercooler... don't know if this will help. are there any tune ups i can do that might help with this problem? AND btw i recently had to change the water pump and the timing had to come off. when i put the timing back on it might be off one or two teeth but idk!! PLEASE HELP

No it has no plastic timing belt covers therefor it uses a timing chain.

If you have to remove the rear seats No such thing as rear seats in a Miata. I own a 90 Miata as well and locked my keys in the trunk once - NIGHTMARE! under the trunk there are two small "punch-holes. it's not easy, but if you punch the one on the passenger side out, then someone with slender hands can reach up into the trunk and pull on the release wire that runs from the lock to the latch. (Hint: I had to cut out some carpeting after punching out the hole in the bottom of the trunk - I don't know if there is a better or easier way, but that's what worked for me.)

The electric window switches in 1999-2005 Mazda Miatas can be pried out with a flathead screwdriver after the center console is removed.

The center console can be removed by removing:

1. 1 screw on each side side of the shifter, covered by plastic screw covers

2. Screws in the center console

3. On 99-00s, remove the ash tray for the last screw

Remove the center console, you'll here a small "snap" towards the front that is connected to the dash.

Flip it over and you'll see how the window switch is attached with electrical harness.

By now, the electrical windows switches have become very brittle with age. It is not uncommon for the plastic tabs to break, that held the switch in place. This can be fixed by wrapping 2-3 layers of electrical tape just under the lip of the switch, which will create a nice, friction fit for it to be replaced.

The Redline MTL is designed for manual transmissions and really helps the cars shift well. If you read the bottle, you'll be sold! They certainly talk a good talk.

hi there if the timing belt goes on the mx5 it does not damage the the headand the bottem will free spin when you turn it over on the key

I own a 1990 Miata, and since the Miata remained virtually unchanged from 1990-1997, it should be in the same place as mine. Open the hood, and toward the back left of the engine compartment there should be a plastic cover that will come up. Inside are the fuses.

OEM is 6x8 or 5x7. Adapters can be used to fit 6.5" drivers, if you choose a component sent and replace the tweeters in the upper area of the door. The hole can actually fit up to an 8" driver, provided you can find one shallow enough to fit.

well, you tore it out . How bad is it ? Your best bet is to find a hard top. You dont seem like the type that should have a soft top......... Not sure about the factory top, but based on my experience with the Robbins replacement top, the plastic window can be removed and replaced separately from the top itself. Replacement windows are available from Moss motors (miatamania.com) among others. This may solve your problem if the outer zipper teeth (the ones on the main top section)are undamaged You must remove the top assembly, including the frame, from the car. You do not have to remove the top from the frame however, which simplifies things. Here's a summary. I recommend consulting a shop manual and/or the Miata.net forums for details. 1. Remove the rear deck carpet. 2. Unbolt the spreader bars that run along the vertical section at the edges of the rear deck. They are clamping down a plastic strip called the "rain rail" 3. Carefully slide the rain rail off the studs that the nuts holding the spreader bars were threaded onto. It is somewhat fragile. If the top is more than a few years old, it will probably crack in a few places. 4. Release the front header clips on the top (the ones you fasten when you put the top up), but do not fold the top. 5. Remove the side trim panels that are just behind the seats. This is a multi step process that involves removing weather stripping, the rear brace bar (if fitted), and various fasteners and clips. Again, I recommend consulting a shop manual. 6. Remove the bolts on each side that hold the top frame to the car. 7. With the help of a friend, remove the entire top and frame assembly (unfolded) and set it on the ground. 8. You will now see that the window is a separate portion of the top. It is riveted to the rain rail (at the center), which is also riveted to the top (at the outer edges). It's only other attachment to the top is the zipper itself. 9. Drill out the rivets attaching the window to the rain rail. 10. If the rain rail is damaged in any way (which is almost a certainty), drill out the rivets attaching it to the main top also. 11. Fit the new window to the top using the zipper to attach it. 12. Now to the rain rail. Either: a. Replace it (approx $110, again from Moss), or b. Repair it using Pasco pipe wrap tape and latex caulk. The Pasco tape is like heavy duty electrical tape, but is 2" wide. It is waterproof, flexible, and you can essentially rebuild the entire rain rail with it. It is hard to find in stores but you can get it on the web. Get several rolls, it has a thousand uses. The latex caulk is available at any hardware store. You need it because the rain rail is polystyrene and nothing else will stick to it (including the tape; use the caulk to glue the tape to the rain rail). 13. Attach the rain rail to the top and new window using new pop rivets 14. Reinstall the top in the reverse order of removal. The spreader bars must be torqued in a sequence with some care. Info on this can be found on the miata.net forum.